trans/hyd oil again

original spec in our old fergusons called for straight mineral oil
many folks these days say to use plain old motor oil
does it stand to reason then that GL-5 is ok to use in our beloved fergusons?

I used the gl-1 mineral oil and the lift is slow in the winter months.
works, but motor needs to warm up a bit anyway.

works great in the warmer months.

would I use it again, maybe not, got the mineral oil at napa

many have just used shell rotella 15w40

only reason I understand is the mineral oil was used to protect the bronze transmission bearings, other
type oils can attach the bronze bearings, but that might be a old wife's tale made up by a gl-1 salesman.

I ran across a post from years ago that stated the brass was only damaged if the tractor sat inactive for long periods of time.

I went with Quaker State 10W40 from Sam's Club shipped to my door. Cleaned everything out before changing over from mineral oil. John in UK said to not use the diesel type oils, too much detergent in them.
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/quaker-state-10w-40-motor-oil-1-quart-bottles-12-pack/158498.ip

mm weaver and sons. big massey dealership

oops wrong post

Can anyone tell me what I should be using for hydraulic/trans oil in my Ferguson TE20 tractor?
I was told 80w90 mineral oil, but that seems awfully thick and my 3 point hitch won't work.

The 80w90 mineral oil is the factory recommendation. In cold weather it will slow the hydraulics way down, but if the hydraulics are not working, it has problems other than thick oil.

NO, it doesn't stand to reason. GL-5 is gear oil, not mineral oil.

You might be right on not using shell rotella 15w40, like all those diesel oils, they have a strong detergent cleaning package,

That is why I just when back with the 90 weight GL-1 mineral oil, because it is a non detergent oil as called for in the manual.

One item that is missed is the fact that in England, they can buy 10w40 multi grade non detergent oil. We can not on this side of the pond.

Well that statement is not entirely true, home depot sells 10w40 non detergent oil in quart containers for their lawn mowers.

The reason non detergent oil was required in the old days, the only way the dirt particles can get out of the oil, they have to drop down to the bottom of the sump and are taken out when you change the oil. They do this in non detergent oil.

The new tractors have a hydraulic oil filters, so they want the dirt particles to stay suspended in the oil, so the dirt particles will be taken out as they pass through the filter.

This information is only worth what you paid for it, but I found this material when I was trying to decide what oil to use in my tractor when I changed the hydraulic differential oil.

As I said, what was confusing, I did not know at the time the guys in England were buying (non detergent) multi grade oil!!!!!!!!!
That we can't buy.

well then why put motor oil in as many advocate?

Motor oil is ok, many say. Mineral oil (GL-1) is what the manual says. GL-5 is gear oil and is not ok. Got it?

no I don't got it.

why is gear oil unacceptable when motor oil is? what's in gear oil that is bad vs. motor oil or even mineral oil for that matter. all I am asking for is an explanation. don't need attitude.

never mind. wiki to the rescue.

Because it's got different chemicals in it which are not suitable for some of your components in your tractor reservoir. Go to the archives and read. Are you married? Ask your wife.

I asked your wife.

(quoted from post at 05:59:37 08/15/15) original spec in our old fergusons called for straight mineral oil
many folks these days say to use plain old motor oil
does it stand to reason then that GL-5 is ok to use in our beloved fergusons?

Click to expand...

ey Steve. I had the same question about mine and I used the GL1 from Napa. I was told the reason the GL1 is to be used is due to the sulfur in new oils/fluids. I think it took 8 gallons.