Zenith 24T-2 carburetor - main jet?

jacka

Member
I have TED20 (year 1952) Ferguson. There is Zenith 24T-2 carburetor. I bought new main jet (it's size 105). Could someone tell me, is main jet size always size 105? Or is it possible that I have now wrong size main jet mixture adjuster?

Something is wrong, because even reverse mixture adjuster close, the engine is still running ok. Help me.
 

The standard TEA are either 120 and 100 . Slow running jet 50 and air jet .079 .
TED carburettors are different and usually run a little richer than a TEA. Look carefully over the carb and try to see if it has the letters VO for vapourising oil stamped into it somewhere . This will determine the type of carb. you have .
Most of the rough running issues with TED tractors are down to the crank case vent valve in the manifold .
 

I think my carburetor is VO 1202. Is it ok? Could you tell me where is crank case vent valve? Or do you mean that I have to install crank case vent valve somewhere?
 
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This is on the end of the copper pipe from the manifold to the crankcase . Some screw into the manifold itself others into the rocker cover end .
Without this valve the engine will pop and fart forever .

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There is a pin inside that keeps the very small restrictor hole clear.
 
Tahank you very much for information. Here is some pictures of my valve... You can see there is no pin (I opened it). There os no nathin inside of valve. Is it necessary to buy new valve? Or is it ok to clean (and all air pipes) and put these back?





 
You do not need a new valve . What you have is fine it just needs the insides which you can make easily . All you need is a small washer and a cotter or split pin . I made a suitable washer from an Australian one cent piece and drilled a 1 1/16th'' hole in the centre , any small disc of copper or brass will do . The pin is just a cotter with one leg cut off as per the diagram or if you want you can bend a piece of stainless wire or a paper clip to the exact shape shown . The diagram I posted is of the type that screws into the manifold . Your valve is much simpler , just put the washer you make with the pin head end up into the valve body and screw down the end cap that you have removed . The flow of gas will make the pin jump about to keep the hole clear and allow the pressure to equalise . This will make the engine idle a lot more smoothly.
Assemble the valve and replace in the banjo fitting in the rocker cover .
 
(quoted from post at 12:12:45 08/08/15) You do not need a new valve . What you have is fine it just needs the insides which you can make easily . All you need is a small washer and a cotter or split pin . I made a suitable washer from an Australian one cent piece and drilled a 1 1/16th'' hole in the centre , any small disc of copper or brass will do . The pin is just a cotter with one leg cut off as per the diagram or if you want you can bend a piece of stainless wire or a paper clip to the exact shape shown . The diagram I posted is of the type that screws into the manifold . Your valve is much simpler , just put the washer you make with the pin head end up into the valve body and screw down the end cap that you have removed . The flow of gas will make the pin jump about to keep the hole clear and allow the pressure to equalise . This will make the engine idle a lot more smoothly.
Assemble the valve and replace in the banjo fitting in the rocker cover .

Thank you. Do you have picture of your pin? I need measurent (pin's total length and pin diameter). Valve's upper hole (see pictures) is about 2,5-3 millimeter (I mean valves end cap).

I don't understand where I need washer (where is one 1,6 millimeter hole in the middle)?
 
The pin is the same diameter as a paper clip , use one if you want to , the shape is the same as in the diagram I posted ; a large head straight shank .
Look at your own photo of the valve you have taken apart in the vice . The washer goes down into the hole in the middle , there is a slight ledge that it sits on . The hole is drilled into this washer which you will have to make and drill yourself .This washer is held in place when you screw the end back on . The hole in the washer should be a slightly loose fit to the pin , it must be free to move .
To put it all together hold the valve the right side up [ with the big nut end up ] put the pin into the washer you have made and place it into the valve pin head first . Screw the end nut back in .
The length of the pin is not critical , just make to stick out the end about the same distance as the one in my photo.

It is not complicated to do , just hard to describe and I have no valves loose to photograph .
Just make a little disc that fits inside the valve hole , drill a little hole into the middle , make a pin from a bent paper clip , fit the lot into the valve and screw on the end . look at the photos carefully again .
 
Yes that is right . Only a few things to correct , the washer goes where you have put it but the hole must be much smaller , just a little bigger than the pin . If the hole is too big there will be too much air admitted and the mixture will be lean and cause the popping and fluffing .
The pin should only stick out the end by a half inch , otherwise that is all that is needed .
 
(quoted from post at 02:03:32 08/10/15) Yes that is right . Only a few things to correct , the washer goes where you have put it but the hole must be much smaller , just a little bigger than the pin . If the hole is too big there will be too much air admitted and the mixture will be lean and cause the popping and fluffing .
The pin should only stick out the end by a half inch , otherwise that is all that is needed .

Thanks. I do better washer... Few question's...

1.And you mean that washer's total diameter is ok when is just to shut only cap end hole?

2. Valve is a double-acting, it is only in open or closed (and when it is closed then it did not go through any air)?

3. Is 1 millimeter thick washer ok (or too heavy)?
 

The valve is not really a valve as such , it is an air restrictor . The hole in the end cap is right , your washer is right , the thickness is not critical . The hole in the washer must be a little larger than the pin . The pin is only there to keep the small washer hole clear as it wobbles around in the air stream .
 

Well done ! :D The pin is still a little long , too long will cause it to jam in the washer hole .

Now it remains to be seen if your tractor's engine will run smoothly . Can you post some pictures of it ?
 
(quoted from post at 12:33:16 08/11/15)
Well done ! :D The pin is still a little long , too long will cause it to jam in the washer hole .

Now it remains to be seen if your tractor's engine will run smoothly . Can you post some pictures of it ?

Is it now ok? In picture pin in so inside (deep) as it gets...

 

Main jet mixture is have to be 4 turns open, then engine only running ok. Is that ok mixture? I have that like main jet mixture adjuster, where head is very long and narrow (like spike). I know that is also available adjuster for those with a blunt tip.

Whether to adjust the difference (spike/blunt tip), or provide so that works properly?
 

Four turns is too much . Standard jet 120 takes 1 , 3/4 turns .
Maximum , minimum 100 type jet takes only one turn .
The adjuster '' like spike '' seems to be the second type 100 jet . This should take only one or at the most one and a half turns open to run well .

Have you cleaned the air filter ? adjusted the air screw ? and made sure the air passages are clear ?

A clogged air filter will give you many problems , it is best to drill out the spot welds at the bottom of the mesh cannister and remove the mesh carefully . you will be surprised at how much dirt accumulates inside it . Wash with petrol , replace and fasten the plate back with pop rivets .
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:55 08/13/15)
Four turns is too much . Standard jet 120 takes 1 , 3/4 turns .
Maximum , minimum 100 type jet takes only one turn .
The adjuster '' like spike '' seems to be the second type 100 jet . This should take only one or at the most one and a half turns open to run well .

Have you cleaned the air filter? adjusted the air screw ? and made sure the air passages are clear ?

A clogged air filter will give you many problems , it is best to drill out the spot welds at the bottom of the mesh cannister and remove the mesh carefully . you will be surprised at how much dirt accumulates inside it . Wash with petrol , replace and fasten the plate back with pop rivets .

Ok, I have to try again. I clean up air filter (it's full cleaned), but it's not installed yet (is that problem?). Air screw is open 1-1 1/2 round. Where is all important air passages? And I read also somewhere that it's necessary to remove fuel filters (or buy new fuel filters) in the inside of fuel tank?
 

Yes , refit air filter otherwise the mixture will not be correct , carburettor relies on the venturi effect to mix fuel and air . Air passage is under air adjuster screw , use fine wire to poke through and see if it is clear .
Filters inside tank are usually badly corroded , remove the twin TED fuel tap , filters look like two upright cigarettes stuck to the fuel inlets . If they are not there then their fragments are probably rolling around in the tank . Don't replace them , just use a fine filter when refilling the tank .
 
(quoted from post at 13:53:21 08/13/15)
Yes , refit air filter otherwise the mixture will not be correct , carburettor relies on the venturi effect to mix fuel and air . Air passage is under air adjuster screw , use fine wire to poke through and see if it is clear .
Filters inside tank are usually badly corroded , remove the twin TED fuel tap , filters look like two upright cigarettes stuck to the fuel inlets . If they are not there then their fragments are probably rolling around in the tank . Don't replace them , just use a fine filter when refilling the tank .

Thanks. I check thinks what you say to me. Maybe I have to again clean carburetor. Could you tell me what is the best way to clean up that Zenith 24T-2 carburetor. I think that something has come loose dirt because main jet must be much more open (3-4 round) and the engine is popping at high revs.

What do you think?
 
(quoted from post at 12:05:47 08/13/15)
What do you think?

I think that these machines like to trick their poor owners !

Recently I have had trouble with my FE35 petrol engine . Much the same as the TED but with more horse power and a different carburettor . I removed and cleaned the carburettor [u:2072c207f6] five [/u:2072c207f6]times , trying to find out why the engine would not get fuel enough to fire . Then I went through the ignition system changing coil , points , distributor cap , plugs etc all without result .
I eventually found that both valves on number 3 cylinder were stuck open ! So try to make sure it is the carburettor's fault first.

I used this to clean my carburettor ,

First a soda blaster
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This is easy to make , use 10mm plastic tube and an air gun with a long nozzle . Bicarbonate of soda comes from the supermarket and is a fine gentle scouring medium . It washes out in water so does not leave grit behind . It will clean all soot , gum and corrosion away from the alloy casing very well .

Then an ultrasonic cleaner filled with degreaser

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Finally fine wire followed by compressed air through a small tube to blast through the passages .

Do you have the original jets ? If you do put them back and try it again . Your jets may be the wrong ones and perhaps you may have another ignition or valve problem .

Try giving the engine a compression test to see just how well each cylinder runs .
 

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