Hi guys,
Its been a while since I"ve posted anything - like 5-6 years. And the last time it was all about a TO20 with a #2 exhaust valve issue and a PTO shaft that wouldn"t come out. The TO20 is still the same and runs good with all that.
I now have a TO30 I bought this spring that has been working just great. With my ability to create excitement I decided to run it out of gas and cranked on the starter because I just did not believe it was out of gas. Those of you that know anything about 6v starters on a 12v charging system know what happened - yep I fried the starter that came from the factory with the tractor. Got a new one and put it on. Problem solved - it started just like always. Decided on a 6v now that I know not to just keep cranking on it.
Well now the new challenge. It ran for 2-3 minutes and then died. Wouldn"t start. Waited 20-30 minutes and it starts and does the same thing. This is all stationary - no movement and no load. After reviewing all of the info on the forum about this situation I figured I would start with the 6v coil. So far I have replaced the 6v coil, 12v-6v ballast resistor, condenser, reworked all the wiring to make sense of it being sure to terminate it all just like it was just shorter runs and fewer points of connection. Also made sure all the connections are cleaned and all that stuff. Now it won"t start.
There is this thing that looks like a small voltage regulator that is between the alternator and the ballast resistor. It is old - like original type old. It has what I think are 2 different sizes of resistors on the back and inside the removeable housing is a magnetic solenoid that apparently switches between what resistors are used. The input is from the FLD connection on the alternator and the output is to the 12v-6v ballast resistor and to the key switch 6:00 position. I have checked all the rest of the wiring.
The system is a 12v charge with negative ground. 6v coil - is going to distributor and coil + is to the ballast resistor. The alternator is a Delco-Remy #1100704 37A 8020 12VNEG It has markings for BAT, GRD, R, & F. It has 2 wires; 1 from the BAT to - ammeter and the other from the F to the FLD on the strange little black box. The - ammeter is also connected to the key switch and the + ammeter is connected to the + battery cable. The key switch has 4 positions CW from 12:00 - 3:00; Off-12:00, Ignition-1:00, Ignition & Lights-2:00, Lights Only-3:00. Looking at the back of the key switch there are 3 connections CCW from 12:00-6:00; lights-12;00, - ammeter-9:00, little black box-6:00. This little black box connection is the same as the one to the ballast resistor.
With everything connected and the key set on "Ignition" the points have a lot of fire and spark when touched by a screw driver. However, when I engage the starter the point spark really drops off or goes to nothing. I have checked gas going to carb - yes. And I did have to pull distributor to put in the new longer starter. Used the old thumb on #1 to get it back in the ball park. And I know not to "CRANK" on the starter.
I am wondering if the black box is some sort of cut-out switch or some sort of selectable voltage regulator that is activated when the alternator is turning and sending voltage through the FLD.
I posted a picture. The connection to the black box in the upper right is from the "F" on the alternator and is stamped "FLD". the output is on the upper right and goes to the ballast resistor and the 6:00 position on the back of the key switch. The green wire coming from the right of the ballast resistor goes to the + 6v coil. I have several other pictures of all of this that I can post if needed.
Thanks for any ideas you may have.
Stan
Its been a while since I"ve posted anything - like 5-6 years. And the last time it was all about a TO20 with a #2 exhaust valve issue and a PTO shaft that wouldn"t come out. The TO20 is still the same and runs good with all that.
I now have a TO30 I bought this spring that has been working just great. With my ability to create excitement I decided to run it out of gas and cranked on the starter because I just did not believe it was out of gas. Those of you that know anything about 6v starters on a 12v charging system know what happened - yep I fried the starter that came from the factory with the tractor. Got a new one and put it on. Problem solved - it started just like always. Decided on a 6v now that I know not to just keep cranking on it.
Well now the new challenge. It ran for 2-3 minutes and then died. Wouldn"t start. Waited 20-30 minutes and it starts and does the same thing. This is all stationary - no movement and no load. After reviewing all of the info on the forum about this situation I figured I would start with the 6v coil. So far I have replaced the 6v coil, 12v-6v ballast resistor, condenser, reworked all the wiring to make sense of it being sure to terminate it all just like it was just shorter runs and fewer points of connection. Also made sure all the connections are cleaned and all that stuff. Now it won"t start.
There is this thing that looks like a small voltage regulator that is between the alternator and the ballast resistor. It is old - like original type old. It has what I think are 2 different sizes of resistors on the back and inside the removeable housing is a magnetic solenoid that apparently switches between what resistors are used. The input is from the FLD connection on the alternator and the output is to the 12v-6v ballast resistor and to the key switch 6:00 position. I have checked all the rest of the wiring.
The system is a 12v charge with negative ground. 6v coil - is going to distributor and coil + is to the ballast resistor. The alternator is a Delco-Remy #1100704 37A 8020 12VNEG It has markings for BAT, GRD, R, & F. It has 2 wires; 1 from the BAT to - ammeter and the other from the F to the FLD on the strange little black box. The - ammeter is also connected to the key switch and the + ammeter is connected to the + battery cable. The key switch has 4 positions CW from 12:00 - 3:00; Off-12:00, Ignition-1:00, Ignition & Lights-2:00, Lights Only-3:00. Looking at the back of the key switch there are 3 connections CCW from 12:00-6:00; lights-12;00, - ammeter-9:00, little black box-6:00. This little black box connection is the same as the one to the ballast resistor.
With everything connected and the key set on "Ignition" the points have a lot of fire and spark when touched by a screw driver. However, when I engage the starter the point spark really drops off or goes to nothing. I have checked gas going to carb - yes. And I did have to pull distributor to put in the new longer starter. Used the old thumb on #1 to get it back in the ball park. And I know not to "CRANK" on the starter.
I am wondering if the black box is some sort of cut-out switch or some sort of selectable voltage regulator that is activated when the alternator is turning and sending voltage through the FLD.
I posted a picture. The connection to the black box in the upper right is from the "F" on the alternator and is stamped "FLD". the output is on the upper right and goes to the ballast resistor and the 6:00 position on the back of the key switch. The green wire coming from the right of the ballast resistor goes to the + 6v coil. I have several other pictures of all of this that I can post if needed.
Thanks for any ideas you may have.
Stan