checking hydralic fluid

Armand

Member
The dipstick says check with all cyclinders extended. Does that mean lifting the 3 point hitch off the ground and should the fluid be checked when the engine is at operating temperature like you do with autos
 
I check the hydraulic transmission fluid in my TO35 with the lift arms down.

If you fill sump to the top fluid level with the lift arms in the up position,then let
the lift arms down, the oil in the lift cylinder will over fill the sump.

Just my reasoning, but I never studied this new math they are teaching the kids today,
so I may be wrong.
However, I do not plan to change my method.

Note to file: if you over fill the sump you better make sure the drain hole under the
tractor is open!!!!!
 
I think the easiest way to check proper amount of hydraulic fluid is have tractor on level ground. Then take the bottom most bolt out of one side of the inspection cover add 4 gallons hydraulic oil then pour the last two gallons in SLOWLY there is a small passage way for the oil to get from the front to the rear and it takes a short while for the oil to get to the rear. Pour maybe a half gallon then enjoy a cold drink wait 10 to 15 minutes then pour some more in. When oil starts to drip out the bolt hole it is full. Wait 15 more minutes then check the dipstick on right side of hydraulic inspection cover. It should show full. If not I believe you may have had a dipstick changed on that tractor so you want to mark it somehow so when you do check the oil you know where on the stick it should be. I always check it with the arms in the down position. Yes I know the book says cylinders in the extended position.
 
I agree, better a little low than getting oil on the clutch and brake shoes.

And with the size of the sump capacity, how much difference can the cylinder volume make? Maybe 1/8" at most! LOL
 
thanks guys I appreciate the help. My dipstick show its over full a bit and its milky also so I'll just change it.
 
I changed the hydraulic differential oil in my TO35 last year.

I worked the tractor as hard as I could plowing my gardens, truck patches in order to
get the oil as warm as possible before I drained the oil,

It still took hours for it to drain out. I did not wash out the sump with anything,
just let it drain. I was having no problems with the hydraulic system, just general
maintenance.

Here is the issue: what oil to add back?????????

I added back GL-1 mineral oil 90 weight, about 8 gals. But that oil technology is 50
years old. Many are using 15w40 diesel motor oil, would be much cheaper.

One problem with an old tractor with a worn hydraulic pump, in winter I have to wait a
bit for the hydraulic pump to start pumping the oil as it is thick, no problem in
summer.

Just a heads up: do not know if I would use GL-1 mineral oil again????? Many say they
have no problem with 15w40 pumping in the winter time. There are many options for what
oil to use.

I subscribe to the fact that the bronze bearings in the transmission require mineral
oil, others think this is an old wife's tale, who knows for sure.

Most engineers of 1957 have pasted on.
 
Many say that one reason they use 15-40 oil instead of GL-1 is because of price. Have any of you actually compared the price? A
gallon of 15-40 Rotella is about $17-18 at Advance Auto, unless you catch a sale. That computes to about $108 for a TO-30,
excluding tax, and considerably more for a TO-35. I haven't priced GL-1 real recently, but I'm betting the 15-40 doesn't save
you much money. I'm not saying don't use 15-40, just that price isn't necessarily a strong motivator.
 
NAPA store here has GL-1 for $55 for 5 gallons. I use 15W-40 in my TO20 even though it costs more, $12 per gallon.
BillL
 
When I check the fluid its shows about 1/2 inch over the fill mark on the dipstick whether the engine is cold or hot. I removed the bolt from the inspection cover on the dipstick side and a small drip was coming out. Guess i have one of those replaced dipsticks. Also what is the purpose of the inspection cover?
 
Yea, exactly. Using 15-40 is fine, but saying it's cheaper is not necessarily true. I see that mentioned a lot here, and just
thought I'd run the numbers.
 
phil,
you are right, I was wrong, on the price of GL-1 at $8.50 per gal verse 10w40 at $13-$15 per gallon.

Gl-1 is cheaper, if you use the old math we used in school.

but now, they use the new math, so everyone is right, no matter the answer.
I must have used the new math formula to get my answer.

but as long as everyone is happy and has all the butterfly's and rainbows they want, everything is good.
 

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