the agony continues

steve19438

Well-known Member
still can't one of my TO-35's to run right.

new remaned carter carb
new spark plugs and wires and rotor and dist. cap
cleaned and gapped pts.
new sed. bowl assy.

it will run just fine for about 5-10 seconds then it sputters, coughs and dies. (sometimes backfires out exhaust)

I do not where to go next. I keep trying to adj. carb to no avail.

need help. again.

thanks.
 
update:

I got it running to the point where it does NOT sputter/cough and shut down. it runs like it is flooded but there is no black smoke coming out exhaust. after I shut off gas at sed. bowl I let it run till it shut off. it ran rough until the engine died.

I have not put a new coil on it.
 
it runs so smooth when it first starts up I would guess not. I took pictures of my other 35's and compared the spark plug wires and I think/hope I have them right.
 
(quoted from post at 10:35:57 07/01/15) still can't one of my TO-35's to run right.

new remaned carter carb
new spark plugs and wires and rotor and dist. cap
cleaned and gapped pts.
new sed. bowl assy.

it will run just fine for about 5-10 seconds then it sputters, coughs and dies. (sometimes backfires out exhaust)

I do not where to go next. I keep trying to adj. carb to no avail.

need help. again.

thanks.
hen it begins to die, give it a squirt of fuel into the carb. Sounds like it's running out of fuel. If it keeps running, disconnect the fuel line at the carb and make sure you get a steady flow.
 
If it ran out the fuel in the carb with the valve off, and never went through a stage of running good as it leaned out, then it's probably not flooding or running rich. Also no black smoke indicates it's not too rich.

Does the exhaust smell, like raw fuel, eye burning, white vapor? If so it's likely ignition. Exhaust backfire is a symptom of erratic/intermittent ignition. How are the distributor bushings? If the shaft is sloppy the points aren't going to stay set. Would you consider an electronic conversion? That will work even with a less than perfect distributor.

What did you do to get it to stop dieing? That might give a clue to the problem area.
 
the last thing I did, other than carb. adj., was to put on new rotor and dist. cap. I will try new points next. if that fails I may have to go electronic.

I am not sure what you mean by sloppy shaft. I can move the shaft a little when holding onto rotor and move it in a turning motion. (twist back and forth)
 
(quoted from post at 18:35:57 07/01/15) still can't one of my TO-35's to run right.

new remaned carter carb
new spark plugs and wires and rotor and dist. cap
cleaned and gapped pts.
new sed. bowl assy.

it will run just fine for about 5-10 seconds then it sputters, coughs and dies. (sometimes backfires out exhaust)

I do not where to go next. I keep trying to adj. carb to no avail.

need help. again.

thanks.

I just curious how they remanufactured the carb since no parts are available for those carbs except for gaskets and needle and seat. No floats or idles and main jet needles are available unless you find some NOS parts. I would look at replacing the carb. Go over to the farmall board and you will find lots of people that couldn't get a carter carb to run properly. As a matter of fact I looked at a Super A this past sunday that had a remanned Carter on it and gas was pouring out of it.
 
I tried to fix the original carb. with available parts but couldn't stop the gas from going past the float no matter how I adjusted the float.. original float is good.

so I bought this remanned one from agri-services(?) and it does not leak. for the time being anyway.

years ago I had a few MS carbs from 8 and 9 N's laying around but I eventually got rid of them otherwise I would have changed to MS.

john at kellers in Quakertown told me to change to MS. he said carter's are not worth a crap.
 
It should twist back and forth, that's the centrifugal advance. Should turn a few degrees ccw (if I remember correctly) then spring back when released. What you don't want is side to side play in the shaft. If there is more than about .005" (not very much) the cam that operates the points can move side to side and the point gap will constantly be changing. They can do some strange things!
 
Good advice. Try a new set of points and condenser. Maybe the coil is going bad also. Had one do that. But about 33 yrs ago we traded one in. Started great and run a few minutes. Just kept getting worse. Tried everything. The distibutor grounded out. Drop another one in and run great
 

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