What our Fergies are good for, pics attached

FxFerry

Member
I know from following the forum many like to play in the dirt with a variety of attached implements, but I'm sure that others like myself use these wonderful work horses for other activities. Owning a 1958 TO-35,(tach marked FE-35), with the 23 C diesel I have spent the last two years helping build a 62 horse training center with about 40 acres of paddock that I enclosed with approximately 15 running miles of wire/belt fencing, and very grateful for the tractors able assistance. Owning a 23C you soon realize that it will never start without its' oil pressure being up, after having the starter vigorously turning over for many seconds.

Hope others have pictures of how they employ their tractors.

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I was going to add some pictures but all I seem to have are repair pics, with things all torn apart. So I guess they are good for teaching us about tractor repair!
 
(quoted from post at 01:13:59 06/12/15) Mine will start before the oil pressure is up, will never be as fast as the Perkins, but does OK. At least Tony thought so at Lagrange..

Mine starts without the oil pressure up as well.
 
Didn't get any pictures, but Fergie got to do some brush-hogging last weekend.

She did well, found some new oil leaks, but nothing major. The homemade gas tank cracked, again... Time for a real one!

First time getting to do some real work since the restoration, but all cleaned up and happily back in the shed.

BTW, the no start until the oil pressure comes up... Sounds like someone has added a low oil pressure protection circuit, but didn't account for getting it started.
 
Mine turns over vigorously for about 20 seconds, then starts firing on about 2 and within 5 seconds runs on all 4. During this initial start up time the indicated oil pressure is up to about 30+ (summer), and 20+ in colder weather. Upon firing up the idle pressure rises to 50+ and under load I can hold an easy 60 all day. No additional circuits for "no oil pressure-no start", or such. Have changed the oil at 50 hour intervals, using Rotella multi-viscosity diesel, and a new filter cartridge each time. Have verified that the cartridge, gaskets and springs are in correct inner sequence before reassembly.

Recently replaced the OEM glow plugs with the 12 volt GAM 101 type, bypassing the big OEM resistor. Going to recheck the hot feed wire from 12 volt circuit to the push button pre-heat switch an thence to them as I don't think they are warming as much as they should, will probably go up in wire gauge size one step. I believe the wiring on it is now 12 and the connecting wires supplied between glow plugs is 10. Big hands into the confines behind the dash cowling always present a challenge to me.

Have been reading about the clogged wire mesh oil/air filter others have found, and not knowing the previous maintenance history, I'm suspicious that even tho I soaked mine for 2 days and the outer mesh looked very clean, the inner layer might be clogged. This suspicion is caused by the fact that the fastest start sequence for me (hot or cold weather) is to leave throttle at slightly above the idle setting. If I open it up more than 20% of movement, the start takes twice as long. Even at the reduced setting on initial start I am surrounded by a defined cloud of greyish black diesel exhaust, not blueish oil bypass type.

Side note, one of the young ladies who works in the barn wanted to brush hog the other day, and being that she is used to piloting one of those "green" tractors called asking where the switch on dash for PTO was located. Told her to look by left ankle for a short lever, fully depress clutch and pull up on lever to engage, and to fully depress clutch and place lever in neutral step to disengage, warning about the next step down being ground speed operation. She thought this was very quaint, but then again this Ferguson is probably twice her age.

Again thanks for all of the insight and assistance provided by the members on this site.

Fx
 
Local Cemetery was looking shabby sooooooooooo TEA 182991 was called up to service. Madden run, with complete serviced Distributor assembly,Timing verified at 24deg before top dead at 2200 engine rpm,high tension leads, spark plugs, carb kit, clutch & pressure plate, cam & crank sprocket, timing chain, governor, front crank oil seal, and all gaskets. The little Fergy. ran like a TOP.
85 MM English Engine. 127.4 cu.ins.....2088 cc.
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FxFerry, If my 23C is cold I generally raise the throttle to above idle, horizontal on mine, then turn the switch to the left to enable the heaters and count to 25 then turn further to engage the starter. If it doesn't try to start immediately I've generally forgotten to release the shutoff lever. If the engine temp is around 150 degrees I generally don't have to use the heaters at all. When I got the tractor I replaced the timing chain and tensioner and rewired the switch with #10 wiring.

My extended plan is to do a rebuild and modify the swirl chamber holes in the head. Being these engines are indirect diesels it may still never start as good as say a Perkins but my starting method has worked for me anyways. I am also going to convert the oil filter to a screw on and get rid of the canister. I will make the adapter for the conversion once I either find another filter/relief block or take mine off to make the adapter, I will keep the other 23C owners of my progress on that one.

For anyone interested in the differences between a direct and indirect diesel here is a good explanation,

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/443032-indirect-injection-what-how-different.html

http://www.howcarswork.co.uk/modules/articles/print.php?id=7

Probably should start a new thread with that information, too bad we don't have a sticky area. Don't know how may 23C owners are out there but it would interesting to find out.
 
If you are not too worried about originality then fit a Ford 400 diesel starter motor...It spins faster than the original type thus helping starting!
Sam
 
Needed to move one of those cheap garden sheds. A bit of bush (hillbilly) rigging and job done with the old 80 mm bore TEA20.

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Carryall platform for general purpose use. Oak floorboards lasted about 10 years out in the weather - time to replace them....and store it indoors
 

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