All Back Together, But Won't Start

Fergienewbee

Well-known Member
What a disappointment! Finally got my TO-30 all back together from redoing the head and it won't start. So, it's diagnostic time. acts like it's out of gas. So I'll start with the fuel line and then the electrical. I have a BIL that can help me, but this is his busy time with everyone buying plants from his greenhouse. Sigh!!!

Larry
 

Bugga. It took me a while to get mine going after a rebuild.

I started with air cleaner removed and spraying carby fluid starter till it kicked, then hooked up fuel.

Make sure you got spark, at each plug, timing is right, firing order is right (1342),coil is good, then fuel or fluid, may take a bit of kicking over to get it to kick.

Also check you have 12 or 6 voltts at points.

Good luck
 
It seems once you mess with the distributor, it can be180 off without noticing. So as someone pushes the lever, slowly spin the cap to look for a difference. And it seems after a long set, the starting fluid idea like pcp's, or your hand over the carb... with a glove... oh yeah, don't be scared to choke it, nearly all mine need a choke first start even in summer...
 
It was running before the tear down and not now.
You did not touch the dist.

Spark plugs not wired correctly.
Gas tank was removed, shut off valve plugged.
Debris dislodged in tank and plugged carb filter.
Valves adjusted too tight, not building compression.
 
(quoted from post at 14:27:34 05/24/15) It was running before the tear down and not now.
You did not touch the dist.

Spark plugs not wired correctly.
Gas tank was removed, shut off valve plugged.
Debris dislodged in tank and plugged carb filter.
Valves adjusted too tight, not building compression.

Yes, ran before head work.
No, did not mess with distributor
Marked wire before I removed.
Shut off valve plugged--possible.
Clogged filter--possible.
Valves were set at .015 per manual.

I'm starting with fuel, then working through electrical.
 
Did you play with the electrical? Then fix that. You didn't touch it? Don't touch it now. Valves set at .015.
Good. Get that thumb over all the plug holes. Compression should blow it off all holes. Yes? Good. No? Oops.
Fix it.
 
When a tank is drained of fuel the sediment within it , the internal filters and the shut off valve seems to turn to concrete very quickly . When storing the newly emptied tank it is often stood on its end , if this happens to be the opposite end to the valve then the valve will dry out even faster and clog . I would follow your instinct and check the fuel flow .
I don't know if TO's have internal tank filters , the TE's do and they are a pain in the @r$e , best thing is to throw them at your enemies .
 
(quoted from post at 02:24:51 05/25/15) When a tank is drained of fuel the sediment within it , the internal filters and the shut off valve seems to turn to concrete very quickly . When storing the newly emptied tank it is often stood on its end , if this happens to be the opposite end to the valve then the valve will dry out even faster and clog . I would follow your instinct and check the fuel flow .
I don't know if TO's have internal tank filters , the TE's do and they are a pain in the @r$e , best thing is to throw them at your enemies .

I've got good flow to the carb, but not so good from the petcock on the carb. I suspect the filter is plugged. Hopefully, I can find one today.
 
Fuel and spark at the right time is what it take to start a spark ignition engine.

Remember that this is a four stroke so it fires on every other revolution of the crank. So your timing can be off 180°. So check to make sure you timed it on the compression stroke. written the timing procedure down numerous time so check the archives.

Do you have spark? Dou you have fuel to the carb?

Don"t assume anything; check it out systematically.
 
(quoted from post at 22:28:50 05/28/15) Could be a float adjustment. You can bend the brass float arm to adjust.

Mt BIL came over and helped. He thinks the carb has some dirt and needs to be cleaned. We did get it started but it quit as soon as the gas in the carb ran out. I've never taken one apart. Does anyone have a diagram?

Larry
 
You don't really need a diagram. It's very straight forward. Just get a good clean spot. The main jet takes a 1/4
drive deep well 3/8 slim socket to remove. That's important. Nothing else is special. Be careful you don't lose
anything like the pin for the float, etc. Get a can of carb cleaner with a pinpoint spray insert from your local parts
store. Like I said in my other post, the float could be the problem. It might not be adjusted properly and lets fuel in
slowly. After it sits it will start and run for a moment until the fuel is gone from the float cavity and then it stops
until you give it time to refill. If the float is bent the wrong way it will stick and hold the needle shut. Also it
could be touching the side of the cavity and hanging. Or the needle could be bad. As mentioned, the input elbow filter
on the side of the carb could be bad, but I'm betting more on something related to the float mechanism. Anyway, while
you are in there, make sure you clean that main jet that requires the 3/8 deep socket.
 

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