bponyg

New User
i did a 12v conversion on this TO30. I wired it like i have in the past on a points distributor car. Total run time has been 1.5 hours since i found the tractor and got it running. I think i am going to need a resistor in the wiring because the points cam follower melted down which then made points contact and coil released the ghost. Does this seem logical or did the condenser fail causing the disaster? I want to fix it correctly but my wiring has worked with many cars and trucks in the past i drove for years with out any issues. suggestions.
 
keeping the 12v system my next step is to put in the .6 ohm resistor , go back to the original 6v coil and new points and condenser.
 
(quoted from post at 05:11:45 05/12/15) keeping the 12v system my next step is to put in the .6 ohm resistor , go back to the original 6v coil and new points and condenser.
hen you convert to 12v you need a 12v coil and a ballast resistor between the power source and the coil.
The only thing I can think of that would make the cam follower, points and coil do that is forgetting to turn the key after it stops running. If the key is on with the motor not running and the points happen to be closed it will do that exact thing.
 
I did have 12v coil it was " internal resistor" but i am questioning. I have used same setup on an old truck that has been running close to 12 years. So i will had a resistor and go back to the original coil.
 
ahhh.....you didn't say you used a coil with an internal resistor. But either way, you still need a 12v coil because the coil gets the full 12v when it's cranking.
 
i don't remember what they are off hand. I just go buy a 12v ballast resistor and install it. Should be more than that though....I'm thinking 1-2 ohms
 
(quoted from post at 13:05:10 05/12/15) i did a 12v conversion on this TO30. I wired it like i have in the past on a points distributor car. Total run time has been 1.5 hours since i found the tractor and got it running. I think i am going to need a resistor in the wiring because the points cam follower melted down which then made points contact and coil released the ghost. Does this seem logical or did the condenser fail causing the disaster? I want to fix it correctly but my wiring has worked with many cars and trucks in the past i drove for years with out any issues. suggestions.

Wait a minute...I see something wrong. You said your points cam follower melted...which is the rubbing block. Good points use phenolic blocks and not the white or black plastic. If you see plastic then you got a cheap set of points. Secondly...did you put the rubbing block grease on the distributor shaft? If you didn't then it is no wonder your points didn't last long.
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:47 05/12/15)
(quoted from post at 13:05:10 05/12/15) i did a 12v conversion on this TO30. I wired it like i have in the past on a points distributor car. Total run time has been 1.5 hours since i found the tractor and got it running. I think i am going to need a resistor in the wiring because the points cam follower melted down which then made points contact and coil released the ghost. Does this seem logical or did the condenser fail causing the disaster? I want to fix it correctly but my wiring has worked with many cars and trucks in the past i drove for years with out any issues. suggestions.
that was what was there when purchased i replaced the points with good set , i threw in a TSC ballest the old 6v coil fired right up

Wait a minute...I see something wrong. You said your points cam follower melted...which is the rubbing block. Good points use phenolic blocks and not the white or black plastic. If you see plastic then you got a cheap set of points. Secondly...did you put the rubbing block grease on the distributor shaft? If you didn't then it is no wonder your points didn't last long.
 
If you have a good 12 volt coil with resistor, you don't need an external ballast resistor. In fact, you don't want it.
I don't know what caused the plastic to melt, perhaps no lube as mentioned, but it wasn't lack of external resistor if
you were using a proper 12 volt coil.
 
(quoted from post at 22:59:36 05/12/15) If you have a good 12 volt coil with resistor, you don't need an external ballast resistor. In fact, you don't want it.
I don't know what caused the plastic to melt, perhaps no lube as mentioned, but it wasn't lack of external resistor if
you were using a proper 12 volt coil.

I think it's a good bet to use the 6v coil you already have with a ballast resistor, new condenser, and of course new points with some cam lube.
 
(quoted from post at 05:31:15 05/13/15)
(quoted from post at 22:59:36 05/12/15) If you have a good 12 volt coil with resistor, you don't need an external ballast resistor. In fact, you don't want it.
I don't know what caused the plastic to melt, perhaps no lube as mentioned, but it wasn't lack of external resistor if
you were using a proper 12 volt coil.
t runs great and as smooth as soft butter. It was cheaper the buy a ballast and add in the system the points i bought were not plastic it was made out of something stronger , the spring was also heavier than what the previous owner had in it.

I think it's a good bet to use the 6v coil you already have with a ballast resistor, new condenser, and of course new points with some cam lube.
 
If it were mine I would get a direct 12 volt coil (no external resistor required), such as NAPA IC14SB or equivalent, and eliminate any resistors. Also a good quality set of Napa/Echlin or BlueStreak points.

With switch on check voltage on wire from output of coil to side of distributor. With points open you should see 12 volts or light on. With points closed you should see 0 volts or light off.

If you have 0 volts or light off with points open check for something shorted in the distributor such as side feed through, points/condenser connection, or possible shorted condenser.

Also, what is the condition of your wiring harness? Old cracked, bare wire, corroded terminal harness can cause unseen problems.
 
The original wiring looked as if a weedeater went through it and they spliced it back together. I replace the point with Tisco because that was available locally , i went back to the original coil and added the resistor because it was cheaper. i have no issues. I think the really cheap points that were in the tractor from when i purchased the tractor was the origin of the failure.
 

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