Barn Find - Ferguson TO35 Electrical Help Needed

dgurley87

New User
I recently found and purchased my granddad's 1955 Ferguson TO35 at an auction.
Here is a photo of the tractor falling apart at the old pack house (Sept of 2013).
20099.jpg


Here is a photo of the tractor today as delivered to the house.
20102.jpg

(I know the color is off for a '55 but this is the way Grandaddy bought the tractor [and I remember him using it] after his original '58 was destroyed in a fire)

The tractor was advertised as not running and I am hoping to change that (with your help).
I am not an electrician by any means and wanted to see if you could review the attached wiring diagram advise me on what to check and/or replace or remove.

Here is the Wiring Diagram as the tractor sits today.
[b:5db1e83048]High Res PDF[/b:5db1e83048]
http://dustingurley.com/FergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.pdf
[b:5db1e83048]High Res JPEG[/b:5db1e83048]
http://dustingurley.com/FergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.jpg

20101.jpg



Currently I am getting compression but not getting any spark at the plugs.

[b:5db1e83048]My dad has confirmed that the tractor has worked fine with the existing 2 wire alternator and a 6 volt battery.[/b:5db1e83048] Before he sold the tractor, He got it running at the pack house, moved it about 500 yards and then it quit. A few days later he got it going again and moved it to his horse barn where the tractor died and would not start. He drained and added new gas, changed the coil, the solenoid, had the alternator checked, and put on a brand new battery.

Dad has always been able to get the tractor going before but he will admit that he has never been very fond of electrical work.
With that, I have to assume this is something electrical.

Sorry for the long post, but any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 22:18:19 04/30/15) I recently found and purchased my granddad's 1955 Ferguson TO35 at an auction.
Here is a photo of the tractor falling apart at the old pack house (Sept of 2013).
20099.jpg


Here is a photo of the tractor today as delivered to the house.
20102.jpg

(I know the color is off for a '55 but this is the way Grandaddy bought the tractor [and I remember him using it] after his original '58 was destroyed in a fire)

The tractor was advertised as not running and I am hoping to change that (with your help).
I am not an electrician by any means and wanted to see if you could review the attached wiring diagram advise me on what to check and/or replace or remove.

Here is the Wiring Diagram as the tractor sits today.
[b:d0aeb61e19]High Res PDF[/b:d0aeb61e19]
http://dustingurley.com/FergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.pdf
[b:d0aeb61e19]High Res JPEG[/b:d0aeb61e19]
http://dustingurley.com/FergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.jpg

20101.jpg



Currently I am getting compression but not getting any spark at the plugs.

[b:d0aeb61e19]My dad has confirmed that the tractor has worked fine with the existing 2 wire alternator and a 6 volt battery.[/b:d0aeb61e19] Before he sold the tractor, He got it running at the pack house, moved it about 500 yards and then it quit. A few days later he got it going again and moved it to his horse barn where the tractor died and would not start. He drained and added new gas, changed the coil, the solenoid, had the alternator checked, and put on a brand new battery.

Dad has always been able to get the tractor going before but he will admit that he has never been very fond of electrical work.
With that, I have to assume this is something electrical.

Sorry for the long post, but any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

One thing that jumps out at me is you said it has a 6 volt battery. In that diagram you show a ballast resistor. Those are not needed for 6 volts and can be causing your problem . A ballast resistor is needed when running 12 volts on a 6 volt coil.
 

First thought that jumps out at me is I don't know as I've ever seen a 6v alternator (they might exist! - just my personal experience!). Can you check if there are any numbers on the alternator that might give us a clue?
When guys switched to an alternator, it was a great opportunity to switch a 6v system to 12v.
You might check for numbers on the starter too. Sometimes 6v or 12v is stamped right into them.
Having said all this, I would start by taking the distributor cap off, turning on the key, and opening and closing the points to see if you have any sparks happening. Yes vs. no will give us some direction.
 
Your diagram is well drawn, but the connections pose several questions. ( I did have to look very close to follow the yellow lines.)

I agree with Jason, there should be no ballast resistor with a 6 volt system. Also,the bottom wire from the side of the solenoid goes to input side of coil. Apparent reason for this is to bypass the ballast resistor when starting. There are some modified 6 volt alternators available, but with this circuit I would advise to have the alternator checked and verify that it is 6 volt. If the alternator is 6 volt the ballast resistor and bypass need to be removed. If the alternator is 12 volt, install a 12 volt battery. I suspect it may well be a 12 volt alternator. Unless specially modified an alternator is negative ground.

With negative ground the – terminal on coil should go to distributor, + should go to switched ignition source.

Assuming the red wire from the alternator is the output, it originally went to one side of the ammeter and other side of ammeter to the large battery cable connection at top of solenoid.
Then there was a wire from alternator side of ammeter to the BAT terminal on switch. It will work this way but does put unneeded strain on the switch BAT terminal.

With ammeter in circuit and battery connected, switch on and engine not running the ammeter should show slightly negative. If positive reverse ammeter connections

What brand and model of alternator do you have. Is this actually a voltage regulator or is it a diode or resistor to apply start up voltage to the alternator and prevent tractor from continuing to run when switch is turned off.

Since you show a starter solenoid, what is the starter pull button?

Check out fergusonenthusiasts(dot)org then resources, then electrical wiring diagrams . There should be some good help there.

It looks like a nice tractor and with family ties it is definitely worth your effort and patience to get it running
 
I am in agreement with the first two posters with one thing to add and a suggestion. If there are in fact wire nuts/marette connectors holding any of your wiring together, get rid of them. They are designed for use in household wiring and can not withstand the vibration or moisture they will get on a vehicle.

A suggestion, decide which way you want to go with it, 6V or 12V. My preference being 12V but if you are wanting to restore it to original you'll want the 6V. Once you decide which way you want to go, make it all that way. I have put a 3 wire delco alternator on my TO35 and it was the best thing I ever did for it.

That's some pretty fancy wiring for sure..........Now I have an electrical/electronic background and wires don't scare me, but I'd likely tear it all off and start from scratch......but that's just me.

Could you post some pics of the actual wiring just so we know if it's viable to keep or if you should start again?
 
The voltage regulator, is it a Chrysler single contact mechanical regulator? If so, someone may have changed the spring, weakened it so it opens around 8 volts. Then a 12 v alt will work with a 6 v system. I did that on an old forklift once. Worked well.

I agree there should not be a resistor on the coil if it is running 6 v. Look at the coil, see what voltage it is, in fact look at everything, the headlights, starter (check the numbers), make sure it is a 6 v system.

I would get it running, check the voltage across the battery, see what it is regulating at. You won't hurt it jumping it off with 12 v, or even temporarily installing a 12 v battery. Just need to get it running to do the test.
 
Thank you guys for all of your insight and support. I am sorry to be slower responding than I had hoped. With that, I am going to try to address all of the responses in this one reply.

[b:09a9f0a1bb]Jason S.[/b:09a9f0a1bb] - In regards to the ballast resistor not necessary on a 6volt battery, I think you are absolutely correct. [b:09a9f0a1bb]If I keep the alternator on the tractor, do I need a 12v coil? or 12v starter? or does the ballast correct the voltage in order to void replacing those parts?[/b:09a9f0a1bb]

Here is a photo of what I am calling a ballast resistor.
20156.jpg


[b:09a9f0a1bb]Grandfatherjim[/b:09a9f0a1bb] - I have not heard of 6v alternators either and wasn't sure what to expect of it myself. In regards to the alternator - I have seen little to no identifying marks on the actual alternator itself.

Since the alternator seems to be key to this - Here are a several photos of the alternator at hand.
20157.jpg

20158.jpg

20159.jpg

20160.jpg

20161.jpg

20163.jpg


[b:09a9f0a1bb]rvirgil_KS[/b:09a9f0a1bb] - Sorry about the yellow lines - I was trying to diagram the actual wires and their physical colors before removing any item from the tractor.
I learned a long time ago to diagram everything before removing anything.
I will be loading a 12v battery tomorrow and plan to change the location of the wires going to, and from, the coil.

In regards to the Ignition Coil, the coil is in-fact a 6v coil.
20165.jpg
(The black wire going into the coil is not touching the wire going to the starter - although it appears to be.)

I will also wire to ensure the ammeter is in-circuit.

[b:09a9f0a1bb]In regards to the alternator -[/b:09a9f0a1bb] please see the images above. I am not sure what specific alternator is on the tractor. I didn't really see any identifying marks other than the Load - the Ground and the number 15. It came from a local alternator shop in town (I am assuming 15-20 years ago because of the service date sticker).

[b:09a9f0a1bb]In regards to the voltage regulator[/b:09a9f0a1bb]. There is no mark for a brand but I am assuming that it is a Echlin VR32SB. I am not sure if it is specifically for startup voltage or if it to prevent the tractor to run when switched off.

See the photo below.
20166.jpg

I believe this should read - "Warning - Do Not Short Any Terminals to Ground"

[b:09a9f0a1bb]In regards to the starter pull button, [/b:09a9f0a1bb] Dad said there was a button on the lower left dash panel when driving that was pulled to allow the tractor to crank(photo taken from further left so button is in lower right) Maybe this was used prior to the new ignition switch being put the tractor.
20176.jpg

Photo Above - Exterior photo of pull button (bottom right of photo)
Photo Below - Under panel photo of pull button
20177.jpg



Thanks for the resource link to the FENA information. I modeled my diagram after their diagram for a 6v with a generator. Unfortunately they don't have a to35 with an alternator.

[b:09a9f0a1bb]Inno[/b:09a9f0a1bb] - I completely agree that the wiring looks bad. I would have to assume that what dad had on hand is what he used. With that, I stopped by Fastenal and got 10AG wiring in 4 colors and heavier 10-12ag connectors for the ends. I will begin replacing these tomorrow morning to have single heavier gauge wires between each of the connection points (as opposed to the forks and mergers along a single wire path).

[b:09a9f0a1bb]In regards to the 6v versus 12v discussion[/b:09a9f0a1bb] I initially was thinking about trying to get the tractor back to a 6v system and utilizing a generator. Then I found the pricetag associated with a new 6v generator. I think for now I am going to just "rehab" the tractor and get her going. I would love to restore the tractor (excluding the gray/green paint combo) but for now I want to use it to clean up the path to the back-40 and to work in our garden.Maybe in a few years I will have the extra cash laying around to get the original wiring harnesses and bulbs and truly restore the tractor but we will see.

[b:09a9f0a1bb]In regards to the photos of the wiring,[/b:09a9f0a1bb] here you go.
20169.jpg
20170.jpg

20171.jpg

20173.jpg


[b:09a9f0a1bb]Steve@Advance[/b:09a9f0a1bb] - That's a pretty neat work around for the 6v battery on a 12v alternator.
In regards to this coil, the current coil is a 6v coil and says "do not use with external resistor".
[b:09a9f0a1bb]The coil looks like new, so if the alternator and my battery is a 12v and I need the resistor for the starter - do I need to buy a different coil?[/b:09a9f0a1bb]

In looking through the existing components there is a mix-match of voltages.
The front lights have a 12v indication on the inside of the bulb reflector.
The back light/license plate lamp is original and has the fabric around the wire- but the lighting wire to the front and rear was cut a while ago (maybe when the alternator was put on)

The Starter is a Delco-Remy and is black (indicating 6v I believe) and stamped SN 4J28 (I believe this indicates September 28th of 1954 -- on a side note the chassis is stamped - G.15.5 for July 16th, 1955)


[b:09a9f0a1bb]To everyone - Thanks again for all of your quick responses.
My plan is to replace the wiring tomorrow.
Depending on your thoughts - I will probably remove the voltage regulator as it should have little impact if the alternator has an internal regulator.
I plan on leaving the ballast resistor in place because I will be putting in a 12v battery. [/b:09a9f0a1bb]

Sorry for the extremely long response but I wanted to ensure I addressed everyone.

What do you guys feel the next step in problem solving should be?

Thanks and I will keep you updated on the progress.
 
All the pics are great (we love pics around here). You're probably right, it was probably put together with what was available. You are on the right track with buying new wire etc. It looks like it's probably wired more complicated than it has to be.
The alternator looks to be a Ford (motorcraft) which is not the typical alt. used for upgrades, usually it's a Delco. I think mine cost me $26 from rockauto and it's been great.
If the alt. is 12V I would suggest using a 12V battery and get a new 12V internal resistor type coil. The starter should be ok to use on 12V, there's really no practical way to step down the 12V to 6V and provide the amount of current a starter needs. Should make for some quick starts once everything else is in order.

I can take some pics of mine if that would help. It was originally 12V (far as I know) as it is a 1959 model.
 
DGurley , a [color=yellow:ddaf3ff775]GOLD[/color:ddaf3ff775] star for one of the best and most respectful responses to answers I have seen anywhere on the ''Internets ''
And another for the [u:ddaf3ff775]really[/u:ddaf3ff775] good photographs .
You are so [u:ddaf3ff775]unlike[/u:ddaf3ff775] people who just take and then take some more and never supply feedback on the final result of so many offered solutions .
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:26 05/01/15) I am in agreement with the first two posters with one thing to add and a suggestion. If there are in fact wire nuts/marette connectors holding any of your wiring together, get rid of them. They are designed for use in household wiring and can not withstand the vibration or moisture they will get on a vehicle.

A suggestion, decide which way you want to go with it, 6V or 12V. My preference being 12V but if you are wanting to restore it to original you'll want the 6V. Once you decide which way you want to go, make it all that way. I have put a 3 wire delco alternator on my TO35 and it was the best thing I ever did for it.

That's some pretty fancy wiring for sure..........Now I have an electrical/electronic background and wires don't scare me, but I'd likely tear it all off and start from scratch......but that's just me.

Could you post some pics of the actual wiring just so we know if it's viable to keep or if you should start again?

As suggested I would start from scratch and go with is known to work, the readily available Delco alternator. You can change the regulators in a Delco alternator to make it a 6 or 8 volt alternator if that's what you want. But going to to the Delco gets rid of the regulator and will make the less wiring less complicated. You have certainly provided enough good picture thus far... As far a crimp type connectors, I only use those that have sealing heat shrink. But like Inno I'm an electrical/electronics type.
 
The starter switch was originally a momentary contact push button, in the same position as the pull switch you have there. Its only role is to energize the solenoid, which in turn connects battery +ve to starter +ve. The terminal on the solenoid that is connected to the +ve of the battery is a handy place to connect other things that need always-live-12v, such as the incoming 12v to the ignition switch, or I think one of the terminals on the regulator, if you need one. However, you need the large sized ring terminals to fit there.

The 6v coil you have, in series with the ballast resistor, can be used instead of a 12v coil with no ballast resistor. The ballast resistor's only job is to step down the voltage to the coil.

If it's easy, I'd suggest taking the alternator in to the local shop, where they can both confirm what it is, and test its functionality while you're at it. Then you will know whether it has an internal regulator, or, if it needs an external one, which one is required. My local shop is very good about doing this, although more recently they have started to charge $20.

The ammeter only measures what the alternator is sourcing to the battery. Sometimes people assume it measures the current to the starter motor but it doesn't - starter currents can exceed a hundred amps.

As far as wiring, there are places where you don't need such a heavy gauge, such as from the solenoid to the ignition switch, from the ignition switch over to the ballast resistor, the ballast resistor to the coil, and the coil to the distributor. I have found the heavier stuff can be more difficult to work with as it has less flex, and is harder to bend/shape in tight quarters - like around the ignition switch. But a good place for the heavier stuff is from the alternator to the battery (via the ammeter) for quick recharging after a start.

Hope this helps.
Jim
 
Nice tractor. If it was mine. I would completely remove
that wiring mess and start over with new. I would also
replace the charging system with a Delco system.

I don't know if motorcraft made a six volt alternator. I
know Delco does. I put one on an 8n last year.
 
(quoted from post at 22:18:19 04/30/15) I recently found and purchased my granddad's 1955 Ferguson TO35 at an auction.
Here is a photo of the tractor falling apart at the old pack house (Sept of 2013).
20099.jpg


Here is a photo of the tractor today as delivered to the house.
20102.jpg

(I know the color is off for a '55 but this is the way Grandaddy bought the tractor [and I remember him using it] after his original '58 was destroyed in a fire)

The tractor was advertised as not running and I am hoping to change that (with your help).
I am not an electrician by any means and wanted to see if you could review the attached wiring diagram advise me on what to check and/or replace or remove.

Here is the Wiring Diagram as the tractor sits today.
[b:669ae3286f]High Res PDF[/b:669ae3286f]
http://dustingurley.com/FergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.pdf
[b:669ae3286f]High Res JPEG[/b:669ae3286f]
http://dustingurley.com/FergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.jpg

20101.jpg



Currently I am getting compression but not getting any spark at the plugs.

[b:669ae3286f]My dad has confirmed that the tractor has worked fine with the existing 2 wire alternator and a 6 volt battery.[/b:669ae3286f] Before he sold the tractor, He got it running at the pack house, moved it about 500 yards and then it quit. A few days later he got it going again and moved it to his horse barn where the tractor died and would not start. He drained and added new gas, changed the coil, the solenoid, had the alternator checked, and put on a brand new battery.

Dad has always been able to get the tractor going before but he will admit that he has never been very fond of electrical work.
With that, I have to assume this is something electrical.

Sorry for the long post, but any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

If you want my honest opinion...here is what I would do. You can buy a new harness from agri services for $72.00. They are a well built exact as original harness. Now if you want to keep the 12 volt system and still look pretty much original, then get a used 12 volt generator and a 12 volt voltage regualtor,use your new harness and there you go. Best of both worlds 12 volts and still looks original. Used generators are easy to find. I looked on ebay and saw one for $59.00. So for a total of less than $200.00 you can both upgrade and look original as your grandfather had it. Just something to think about.
 
You have a mighty fine tractor worthy of a good restoration so my advice is to get ahold of the Ferguson tech guru, Bob Sybrandy, at the FENA club and he will be able to answer any questions and help you thru this project. Not a FENA member? Well, have at it -what's stopping you???

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
TPD9N100.jpg
</td><td>
TPD8N100.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 
All the pics are great (we love pics around here). You're probably right, it was probably put together with what was available. You are on the right track with buying new wire etc. It looks like it's probably wired more complicated than it has to be.
The alternator looks to be a Ford (motorcraft) which is not the typical alt. used for upgrades, usually it's a Delco. I think mine cost me $26 from rockauto and it's been great.
If the alt. is 12V I would suggest using a 12V battery and get a new 12V internal resistor type coil. The starter should be ok to use on 12V, there's really no practical way to step down the 12V to 6V and provide the amount of current a starter needs. Should make for some quick starts once everything else is in order.

I can take some pics of mine if that would help. It was originally 12V (far as I know) as it is a 1959 model.

Thanks for the quick reply. I will definitely continue to post pictures to help you, and others, understand specifically what I am trying to describe as to not electrocute myself or fry the components on the tractor. Simply put - I am at your mercy.

My professional background is in media and design so I am more knowledgeable about process modeling diagrams and creative media, e.g. photography, then doing anything with my hands. Hence more photos and questions. Hopefully that will soon translate to me being able to assist others.

In regards to buying new equipment - I went ahead and purchased and installed new Delco 10si alternator, 12v coil with internal resistor, 12v rv/marine battery, new battery lead cable and grounding strap, 12v starter solenoid, and new seals for the oil filter and engine case.

In regards to wiring more difficult than it has to be - I agree. As others suggested, I pulled everything off (except the starter and distributor to re-wire. With that, I have done everything but hooked the battery up and turned over the key. I was hoping to have a little input from you and others before I do so to ensure I do not fry any of the electrical.

[b:f69405c515]With that, Below you will find a wiring diagram in PDF and JPEG format. Does anything on the diagram concern you?[/b:f69405c515]
20785.jpg

PDF - http://dustingurley.com/12vFergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.pdf
JPEG - http://dustingurley.com/12vFergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.jpg

[b:f69405c515]My two concerns would be this.[/b:f69405c515]
1 -On the ignition switch - the ignition lead/circuit has two wires leaving.
One wire goes to the negative input on the coil.
[b:f69405c515]The other wire goes to the top of the starter solenoid.
Should that go to the side of the solenoid?[/b:f69405c515]
From my understanding, this wire should send current to tell the solenoid to re-route the current going from the battery, and out of the side of the solenoid, to the starter. But I am not sure if that needs to be located on the top of the solenoid or the side.

2 - On the ignition switch - the battery lead/circuit that travels to the starter solenoid.
[b:f69405c515]Should that wire go to the top or side of the solenoid?[/b:f69405c515]


In regards to the alternator - I looked at the writing on the back for about 30 minutes and could not even get close to Motorcraft. The second I read your post I could read it instantly.

In regards to your comment below - I took this advice and ordered the 12v battery, 12v internal resistor type coil.
If the alt. is 12V I would suggest using a 12V battery and get a new 12V internal resistor type coil. The starter should be ok to use on 12V, there's really no practical way to step down the 12V to 6V and provide the amount of current a starter needs. Should make for some quick starts once everything else is in order.

In regards to your comment below - I would love to see some of the detailed shots... e.g. the Continental Engine serial number tag, or the layout of your gauges, etc..
I can take some pics of mine if that would help. It was originally 12V (far as I know) as it is a 1959 model.

Thanks again for your recommendations and help.
 
DGurley , a GOLD star for one of the best and most respectful responses to answers I have seen anywhere on the ''Internets ''
And another for the really good photographs .
You are so unlike people who just take and then take some more and never supply feedback on the final result of so many offered solutions

Charles in Aus.,

Thank you for taking time to read through my [lengthy] response (and for the gold stars).

A month ago I knew next to nothing about tractors. But I am slowly learning from you and other advocates on this forum and FENA's site. With the quality information given I am not sure why other folks on the forum would just take and take when people like you control the information they are receiving.

With the recommendations I have received, and the direction I take the electrical wiring (which I truly know next to nothing about) is going to be based on the consensus of recommendations I receive on here (which have been phenomenal).

[b:3328c3f5ef]Thank you for taking time to post your comment and all of the support you have given.[/b:3328c3f5ef]

In regards to the photos, I do have a lot of other photos that I will be posting as the time is appropriate (which might be in the form of a website). I have 10+ years of professional experience with Web Design and Development and have been thinking seriously about creating a site that aggregates all information (and future information) regarding Ferguson tractors. I will be talking to some of the admin's from FENA to see what they think would be the best route.

I will keep you updated.

Thanks!
 
As suggested I would start from scratch and go with is known to work, the readily available Delco alternator. You can change the regulators in a Delco alternator to make it a 6 or 8 volt alternator if that's what you want. But going to to the Delco gets rid of the regulator and will make the less wiring less complicated. You have certainly provided enough good picture thus far... As far a crimp type connectors, I only use those that have sealing heat shrink. But like Inno I'm an electrical/electronics type.

DrLoch - I specifically went with your recommendation to start from scratch.
20787.jpg


I then went and purchased a Delco 10si alternator from ebay.
20786.jpg


Instead of worry about the differences in the voltage, I went ahead and purchased a new 12v coil with internal resistor.
Part of it can be seen here.
20788.jpg


In regards to the crimp type connectors.
I pulled all of the wiring off of the tractor. I even replaced the wires going to the spark plugs.
I did this to use the 10ga wiring across the tractor components and to get rid of any home-use inline connectors.

Ignition Key Switch can be seen at top.
Gas line and temperature gauge can be seen in the center left.
20789.jpg


20790.jpg

20791.jpg


Because I have not tried to turn the tractor over, I haven't really finished all the work needed to tidy up the cables.
I also haven't finished the cable work because the metal solenoid I ordered came in as a plastic solenoid and cracked as soon as I began tightening down the top terminal.
20792.jpg


If you can, will you look through this diagram and see if any alarms go off?
I am worried about where the IGN and BAT terminals (On the ignition key) go to on the solenoid.

http://dustingurley.com/12vFergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.jpg

Thanks.
 
Nice tractor. If it was mine. I would completely remove
that wiring mess and start over with new. I would also
replace the charging system with a Delco system.

I don't know if motorcraft made a six volt alternator. I
know Delco does. I put one on an 8n last year.

Tractor Guy - I did exactly as you suggested and removed all of the wiring - I just posted some of the pictures to show some of the upgraded wiring as well as the scrapped wire.

I also purchased the 12v Delco Alternator.

Thanks for your input as I took that exact suggestion.

[b:5a52c09f2e]I posted the wiring diagram here.
http://dustingurley.com/12vFergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.jpg
http://dustingurley.com/12vFergusonTO35WiringDiagram144401.pdf

Do you see anything that is alarming?[/b:5a52c09f2e]

Thanks.
 
You have a mighty fine tractor worthy of a good restoration so my advice is to get ahold of the Ferguson tech guru, Bob Sybrandy, at the FENA club and he will be able to answer any questions and help you thru this project. Not a FENA member? Well, have at it -what's stopping you???

Tim - Thank you for the heads up about FENA. I just sent my $25 to David Lory to join today.

Thanks!
 
You've switched to negative ground right?
If so, the coil is wired backwards. Also, omit the wire going from the positive post of the solenoid to the ign terminal of the ignition switch. If you leave it this way you wont' be able to turn it off.
I also don't think the ammeter should be connected to the "start" post on the solenoid. Power needs to travel through the ammeter, it should be in series with the lead from the alternator and go to the Bat. + post of the solenoid.
 
I'm not real familiar with TO35's. Is the key switch a "
on, off" switch or a "off,on,Start" switch?

You have a one wire alternator. The wire should go from
the alternator to the amp meter. The one wire from the amp
meter to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid.
Another wire from the amp meter to the battery post on the
key switch.
 

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