stabilizer bars

Armand

Member
Are stabilizer bars necessary when using a brush hog, and what is the purpose of the chains attached to the lift bars
 
necessary, no. recommended, highly.
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We always used stabilizer bars. It keeps equipment from going side to side and plowing up your row crops.(even bush hogging) Make test run with stabilizer bars and without. You will see the difference. I never liked the arms hitting end of chains when turning while raising equipment. Bars just keeps your equipment straight.
 
A rotary cutter and a chain saw are about the two most dangerous machines most of us
use.

My friend was using his rotary cutter, he was not using stabilizer bars,
Someway he broke one of the lower arm check chains, this allowed the cutter to move to
the right, cutter caught on the right rear tire.

Before he was aware of the problem, the cutter was climbing up the tire, slashing it to
pieces, bending the right rear fender, before he got it stopped.
Could have killed him

Note to file: when using your rotary cutter, always check the condition of your lower
arms, stabilizers, connection pins, check chains. All equipment must be in excellent
condition, before you get on the tractor.

Also check that the large nut holding the stump jumper is tight and that the cotter key
is in place:
I had another friend using his cutter, the blade stump jumper attachment nut came off,
this allowed the blades and stump jumper to come off while using the cutter, again no
one was hurt.

Just check everything!!!!!!!
 
if memory serves the only implement that we used that did not get SB were the two and three btm plows. disc possibly but not to sure.
 
Yep you can use one stabilizer bar which will do the job or two if you want, without them it can take chunks out of the rear tyres and basically slides side to side.
 
I always use sway bars when mowing. Otherwise the mower will swing from side to side, and the swath I'm taking isn't straight.

Might look like I don't know what I'm doing. Can't have that. :wink:
 
I surprise people when it looks like I know what I'm doing!

My FEO-20 and a half mower needs 5 sway bars. What a gadget.

On this forum, a long while ago, but might still be in the archives, someone dug up a HF manual that said 'use anti sway bars whenever necessary, but never with ground engaging implements. The tool should be adjusted to track true behind the tractor. words to that affect.

That makes sense eh? A plow should travel straight and x inches from the rim of the tire in the furrow- by adjusting the leveling box and top link. Discs and cultivator shoes should be angled to pull straight.... but then... if you don't shorten up the check chains...when it's floppin and swinging around back there when turning around.... nightmares about chipping your brand new Armstrongs.... you'd do anything right? toss the book!

So.... who was it? Duke of Wellington? said ' the best laid plans of mice and men never last 15 minutes....'
 
Its used to disengage the slasher when you put the clutch in on single stage clutches. bassically free spin clutch.

I think the 35s have 2 stage clutch but not sure.

Google overrun clutch, and you will see pictures and better explainations
 
Some TO35s had dual clutch or two stage clutch. You can tell by the serial number. The third letter will either be F, M, Y or W, F or M being the more common as far as I know. F is single stage clutch, M is dual stage. For example, mine is SGM###### which means Standard/utility chassis, Gasoline engine and dual stage clutch.
 
If you don't have dual clutch, the spinning blade of the Brush Hog will continue to turn your rear wheels even when you push in the clutch. There is so much momentum there that it is impossible to stop the tractor. An over-running clutch attaches to your PTO and the shaft of the brush hog into the over-running clutch. It only spins in one direction, the direction of drive from the PTO and will not allow the PTO to move your wheels when there is no input from the tractor thus allowing you to stop.
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:37 04/24/15) If you don't have dual clutch, the spinning blade of the Brush Hog will continue to turn your rear wheels even when you push in the clutch. There is so much momentum there that it is impossible to stop the tractor. An over-running clutch attaches to your PTO and the shaft of the brush hog into the over-running clutch. It only spins in one direction, the direction of drive from the PTO and will not allow the PTO to move your wheels when there is no input from the tractor thus allowing you to stop.
Thanks Inno. fortunately I do have the dual clutch.. Ive heard some stories of guys going thru objects because of the single type clutches.
 
Not absolutely necessary but strongly suggested as well as an ORC. If you have a weak hydraulic system or want to help take some stress off the existing one, add limiter chains too.

The check chains attached to your lift arms prevent the arms from swinging too far and into your rear tires as mentioned. Some fellas use limiter chains with brush hogs and mowers so you can preset the height and keep it from going down too far and gouging the surface.

I use stabilizer bars on mowers, brush hogs, and back blades exclusively. Sometimes I'll use them on my disc harrow and spring tooth drag.

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<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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I have check chains on already. I am going to pick up stablizer bars also. I've read to many horror stories of those who didnt have them. A few bucks will save damage and injury.

thanks for the info
 

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