Hello all, I enjoy your forum, first time posting(be gentle). I recently bought a hurt Fergie TO-30, pretty straight and original. The exhaust valve spring rusted, broke and the valve dropped through the piston on the #1 cylinder(the others look good and crankshaft looks really good), she still ran to idle onto the trailer(before I knew what had happened). I have a set of good used pistons/rods and bought a valve overhaul kit, sleeve, O-rings, & intake valve seals from YT, but the spring cap retainers are not included and I can't seem to find much about them. I found the old one under the valve cover, it's not bent up or anything, but I hate to use the old ones unless I have to. I thought I'd seek some wisdom from you folks that have "been there, done that". Not really new to working on my own stuff, but my first Ferguson. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
- Thread starter D.J. 67
- Start date
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
The spring retainers are good to reuse. There is also a lash cap that goes on the end of the valve, be sure to find that.
When something like this happens, my biggest concern would be getting all the metal fragments out of the oil system. Since it was run, good chance the oil galleys have metal in them that will eventually find it's way to the bearings. Only way to get everything clean is to do a complete out of tractor tear down and chemical cleaning of the block.
Going back with used pistons and sleeves is OK if they check out to be within wear tolerance. I would not reuse the sleeve that had the valve dropped onto the piston, it could be split.
When something like this happens, my biggest concern would be getting all the metal fragments out of the oil system. Since it was run, good chance the oil galleys have metal in them that will eventually find it's way to the bearings. Only way to get everything clean is to do a complete out of tractor tear down and chemical cleaning of the block.
Going back with used pistons and sleeves is OK if they check out to be within wear tolerance. I would not reuse the sleeve that had the valve dropped onto the piston, it could be split.
Roger in Iowa
Well-known Member
I would not re-use any of the valve springs! A small rust spot can cause a spring to fail.
Thanks for your replies, I appreciate the help. The possibility of metal shavings is concerning me too, unfortunately it is a little cost-prohibitive for me now to go the whole route, not even sure where I could take a block around here to have it done. I was going to try to clean as much as possible, blow everything out and hope for a little luck with her. Maybe frequent oil changes early, magnet in the bottom of the pan? Do you think my chances are at least decent? The 'ol budget is just sad at the moment. Roger- those springs are going straight to the scrap bin, have a new set coming, not worth taking any chances with those. I read somewhere that the retainers can "hollow out" with the key locks on some heads, not a big concern with these? I assume then that new ones are not easily available. What do you think about the valve guides, difficult to do yourself? They look good, for what that is worth. Thanks again for all your help, really want to try to do the best half-a**ed job that I possibly can. Don
Ha DJ
I have just half a**** rebuilt my tea20 motor.
There are heaps of online stores for fergy parts. so i would go googling. Not sure what motor you have. but saw retainers on ebay in the states, as i am in oz, my motor is a standard not a continental.
My valve guides where worn, however after advice from here decided not to do them as it seem difficult for a diy job.
See post by pcp20us: valve guides in the last month, for advice i was given.
I have just half a**** rebuilt my tea20 motor.
There are heaps of online stores for fergy parts. so i would go googling. Not sure what motor you have. but saw retainers on ebay in the states, as i am in oz, my motor is a standard not a continental.
My valve guides where worn, however after advice from here decided not to do them as it seem difficult for a diy job.
See post by pcp20us: valve guides in the last month, for advice i was given.
he parts arrived today(sleeve, O-rings, valves, guides, springs, 4 intake seals & locks), so I guess it's about "go" time. The extenda-magnet is a good idea, I'll try that. Pcp- sounds like good advice on the guides, even though new ones came with the kit, I think I'll try to leave the old ones right where they are, unless closer inspection shows that they are really bad. I just hope I don't have as much trouble getting that sleeve out as you did! When I said valve "retainers", I meant the round plates that set on the spring under the locks, maybe I didn't use the right term. The intake valve seals they sent are the o-ring style, are they okay? I have heard mention of a cap over type?? This is probably a dumb question, but that is what I do best. The con. rod I removed has nice shiny bearings in it(crank is smooth & shiny too), but I'm afraid the rod might be very slightly bent. As mentioned, I have a nice used set of rods and pistons that also have bearings in them that look good, I was going to pick the best rod/piston to put back in the bad cylinder with the new sleeve. Should I use the bearings already in the "new" rod/piston, or swap the bearings with the ones in the old rod that I took out since those are already mated to the crankshaft? Sorry for these long posts, I'll try to work on that! Just so much to ask and so little time. Thanks
After just doing this rebuild in frame, if i do it again i will split the tractor and get the engine on a hoist so i can knock out the sleeve with gravity on my side.
If i do it in frame I will get a plate made up to fit in the sleeve and a strong sleeve puller. Doing it in frame, you need to work around the crank and journals.
Its fun wacking your hand with a small sledge hammer while lying under the tractor, wacking out a sleeve. It would be easy standing over the block, with the block upside down knocking sleeves out.
Search archives there is some good info on diy sleeve setups, or borrow a sleeve puller.
horses for courses, but get into it, happy to help if you got questions, ill do my best.
If i do it in frame I will get a plate made up to fit in the sleeve and a strong sleeve puller. Doing it in frame, you need to work around the crank and journals.
Its fun wacking your hand with a small sledge hammer while lying under the tractor, wacking out a sleeve. It would be easy standing over the block, with the block upside down knocking sleeves out.
Search archives there is some good info on diy sleeve setups, or borrow a sleeve puller.
horses for courses, but get into it, happy to help if you got questions, ill do my best.
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