1955 Ferguson TO35 Draw Bar Operating Instructions

Hello All,
I need some book learnin on the operation of the draw bar control levers and what does the yoke and spring that is right behind the seat do? The spring is on the inside of the yoke housing.
I know that the position er lever raises and lowers the bar.
Is the bar supposed to stay up when you shut off the tractor?
I was looking for a operators manual that would explain this but I can't find one. I have a service manual but it does not explain how the system works.

I plan on mounting my 7 foot snow plow on the draw bar, if it will stay where I put it when changing gears.
 
I received an email stating that John in the UK may have some printed info that would help me. Can anyone help me find out how to contact John?
 
water,
if your old 35 is like mine, when you cut the engine, the lift arms will drift down in a while, faster with a heavier load.

the only way I was ever able to keep them at a set level was with the angled stabilizer bars.

note: this seeder must be kept at a set height, so the rubber drive shaft will not stretch and damage. the angle stabilizers keep it at the set height. NOTE TO FILE: YOU MUST LOCK THE LIFT ARM LEVER IN THE DOWN POSITION, SO YOU DO NOT, DO NOT, RAISE IT UP AND BEND YOUR STABILIZER ARMS!!!!!!

my 1957 TO35 came with these stabilizer bars for the cross bar hitch. If you have never seen a set, at the top they are angled back more than 90 degrees. They attach to the tractor under the top link, by the long pin, that is hinged in the middle.

I have used them for many tools over the years that had to stay at a set height.

If you wanted to maintain a set height on a tool, but would like to lift it higher when needed, you would have to replace these stationary stabilizers with a pair of set length chains, so they could flex when you lifted the load.
a188488.jpg
 
The yoke and spring (master control spring) is part of the draft control feature. It's designed to raise an implement, like a plow, if it hangs something, then return it to the previous height. (At least that's how I understand it works). There is a linkage from the yoke to the control valve that actuates the valve when the spring is compressed. It is important that when the implement is not attached to the yoke that there is zero play in the spring. Someone check me on this, but I think the draft control only works when the draft lever is between the 2 dots? You can play with the adjustment, see what it does, but doesn't seem to have much effect on mine.

The lift will not stay up with the engine off or the clutch depressed. It will slowly drift down depending on the weight of the implement and the condition of the lift cylinder seals. If it falls quickly there is a problem.

An IT Shop Manual covers this. They're not expensive, usually find a used one on Ebay.
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:54 04/08/15) water,
if your old 35 is like mine, when you cut the engine, the lift arms will drift down in a while, faster with a heavier load.

the only way I was ever able to keep them at a set level was with the angled stabilizer bars.

note: this seeder must be kept at a set height, so the rubber drive shaft will not stretch and damage. the angle stabilizers keep it at the set height. NOTE TO FILE: YOU MUST LOCK THE LIFT ARM LEVER IN THE DOWN POSITION, SO YOU DO NOT, DO NOT, RAISE IT UP AND BEND YOUR STABILIZER ARMS!!!!!!

my 1957 TO35 came with these stabilizer bars for the cross bar hitch. If you have never seen a set, at the top they are angled back more than 90 degrees. They attach to the tractor under the top link, by the long pin, that is hinged in the middle.

I have used them for many tools over the years that had to stay at a set height.

If you wanted to maintain a set height on a tool, but would like to lift it higher when needed, you would have to replace these stationary stabilizers with a pair of set length chains, so they could flex when you lifted the load.
a188488.jpg
Thanks wellmax, you just gave me the answer on how I can hook up a snow plow on the rear of my tractor. I will hook it to the draw bar and use chains to hold it in the low position and then raise it with the lift lever. Thanks for the info, Wade
 
Your setup has the Drawbar STAY BARS -NOT stabilizer bars -to hold the load at a specific height as mentioned. You need the safety chain and badge to lock out the hydraulic lift touch control lever so you don't try to raise or lower the lift as you will break a whole bunch of stuff, and possibly damage the pump too. The drawbar is not used with an implement like a back blade on it. Once you remove the fertilizer spreader and the PTO drive line, take the STAY BARS off and the drawbar, then you are ready to hook up any 3-point implement. Stabilizer Bars are a different animal and go under the fenders to special brackets. You will want to use those with a back blade by the way. You really need to get some manuals and do your homework.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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Thanks Tim, could you tell me what to buy and where to get? Everything I have found has no info on the draw bar system.
 

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