Advice on sleeve seats

Following on from engine rebuild from pcp20us.

The sleeve was a stubborn bugger, i ended up cracking the sleeve so ended up carefully removing the rest of it.

Here are pics of the sleeve seat, ( view is from the top looking down into the cylinder bore)


I am wondering if the seat is ok, there are a few bumps as you can see in the photos, at about 9 and 11 am.

I have read that you should not use copper sealant with these, will the new copper gaskets?? for the sleeves fill any imperfections between the sleeve and the seat.




Thanks for the help

That is not good! I don't see anything sealing
reliably on that. Short of having it machined,
which to my knowledge, would require taking it
out, tearing it down, taking it to a machine
shop.

Only other alternative, and this is going to be
risky, carefully scrape out the pits down to bare
metal, fill with JB Weld, sand them down as flat
as possible. Then go back with copper sealer or a
Teflon sealer.

Listen for some other solutions, I've never tried
this particular repair, but that's how I would do
it, other than finding another block or machining
them down, decking the block.

Is the sleeve lower bore area smooth where both lower seal rings make contact? If the top is sanded smooth so the well lubed seal rings will not get cut on installation all will be OK. Sleeve is supported at the top flange anyway.

TE20 tractors use flat gaskets rather than O rings Dieseltech . That has caught me out as well .
I have heard of the seats being filled with a little weld and ground down by hand before but I can't say if it was successful at all .There are , or were, a number of different bottom seals made for these liners some were copper , others were of various thicknesses of different fibre material , I could never understand why they made these , I think I do now . It might be worth looking to see if these are still available , a thicker gasket in the one damaged cylinder space might be able to compensate for the damaged seat . Try Vanguard Spares in Lilydale Victoria , they have a long history of working with Standard engines .

The "figure-8" gaskets down there have two functions:
a) set the sleeves just proud of the deck of the block (5 thou? ... something like that. I can look it up if you don't have it)
b) prevent coolant leaks (into the oil sump)

Way back whenever, no doubt you could easily obtain all different thicknesses of gaskets, but I bet it's hard to find anything unusual now (not that I've looked, mind). So, if it were me, I would first ensure that those bumps are not sticking up, and if they are, file them down ever so carefully perhaps with a Dremel, and then if there are grooves or depressions, apply a light smear of Hylomar Blue non-hardening sealant or similar. You need to be careful to apply only the slightest bit since the thickness of the sealant and the gasket needs to be equal to the thickness of the gasket, if you know what I mean.

The last time I did one of these engines was about 2004 and I'm pretty sure at the time the gaskets were copper, but they could have been aluminum. Either way, they will indeed conform slightly to irregularities, so my bet is you will end up OK without having to go to a machine shop.

Also, note they are the same gaskets as used on early Triumph sports cars - the TR2, TR3, and TR4. You can get them from Moss Motors in California or The Roadster Factory in Pennsylvania.

Jim

Thanks guys. sounds like some prep work and all shall be good. thanks for the tip on the vanguard fellas in victoria. Looks like i should have bought a dremel on the weekend as i needed on, this is another good reason to buy one.

I think i will leave the other 3 liners as they are as this seal looked okay, and this was on one of the rusty cylinders. the sleeves are really stuck in there. But will wait till i put this new one in to make sure the liner sitting proud of the block is all good.

(quoted from post at 02:38:36 03/09/15) Is the sleeve lower bore area smooth where both lower seal rings make contact? If the top is sanded smooth so the well lubed seal rings will not get cut on installation all will be OK. Sleeve is supported at the top flange anyway.

Click to expand...

At 9 am on photo there is an indent and this has lifted the inside of the radius of the bore a little, i think filing this down and some filler should do the job. besides that they are smooth. Just need to remove crude around the outside of the bore to get a good seat