Working out the kinks on my '53 TO-30

wharenj

Member
A little background:
When my Dad got it in the early 80's, it was a bull. It has a loader and we used it quite a bit. I used it to clean up from the blizzard of '93. When I went to use it again, it would not start. Not long after my Dad passed, my brothers went their own way and the equipment sat. Well, it sat until January of this year, 22 years OUTSIDE. There are so many issues with it. Some I have been able to handle, some are continuing to pester me. I have so far only been able to start it by jump starting it. I cannot seem to fire it off using the starter. I have overhauled the carb, put in basically a new electrical system and cleaned from the gas tank down. When it runs it runs just like it used to, but I just cannot get it to start using the starter.

Any ideas?
 
I have a 30,someone up graded to 12 volt.is yours? i'm gonna guess yours just doesn't turn over fast enough.or weak spark&jumping boosts it.
 
I had just reset the gap to .025, they were, for some reason that I can't explain, set from .035 - .045. It does seem to crank a little slower than I'd like it to thinking it might be a draft issue. I should also mention that the plugs are dry(lack of fuel).

I have the original 6v system.
 
Sounds like weak spark, as in the starter is
pulling the voltage below the level needed to
fire the plugs.

What size are the battery cables? Need 00 ga. or
larger for 6 volt.

Also check the starter bushings for wear, letting
the armature drag the field windings.

Be sure the points are set correctly and the
distributor bushings are good.

Check the voltage drop from the battery to the
coil when cranking, could be a weak connection or
corroded ignition switch.
 
Starting fluid, not my last resort, my first choice. If it was so evil, you'd need a prescription.
Sometimes a coil needs to be.... ????? Polarized? I get someone I don't like to hold a wire and spark plug away from the block, then as I crank it over the chump brings the plug closer to ground. It will arc sooner or later. You will know it when he jumps.
Yes oil dripped in the plug holes will help compression, loosen the 4 plugs if you need less comp. Sooner or later you'll get it going. Be patient and.... Good luck!!!
 
Not sure the battery cable size. The ground is quite large, bigger than the negative side. It was obviously replaced not too long before it stopped running years ago. This might have to do with the slower cranking, I will rectify that.

The starter is new. It is also a new battery and starter switch, nothing is corroded. The ignition switch is also new.

The points are new and set correctly by myself. I had also rechecked as a precaution. I will look at the distributor.

I held the plug to a bare spot on the block while cranking and there is spark. I think my greatest concern is the dry plugs indicating no fuel is getting into the cylinder. I tried starting fluid shot into the air intake, nothing. I tried shooting it into the carb, nothing. I'm starting to think I have a leak on one or both sides of the manifold. New gaskets are next.

Thanks for the responses. Like I said before, when I figure out how to add pics, I will.
 
I have to also ask, what is the correct Autoilite plugs? My Dad and brothers did like a bunch of farmers did and used what they had. It currently has #386 in it.
 
Just so I understand, it will run when you jump start but will not
crank enough off the battery alone to start? Change out the
neg. wire to a 0 or 1 gauge and this should fix it. I would think
that if it does run when jump started your dry plug issue is from
slow turning or not turning on the battery and not getting the
fuel from the carb because of low intake draw on the updraft
carb.

I think that as you have seen the fast turning motor will start
and run fine but slow turning not.

Keep us posted.
 
(quoted from post at 17:37:50 03/03/15) You are understanding correctly Tom. I am going to get a 00 wire to eliminate that as a suspect.

Is the ground cable still hooked to the dash? If so it needs to be moved as close to the starter as you can get it. Mine is bolted to the bellhousing.
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:04 03/03/15)
(quoted from post at 17:37:50 03/03/15) You are understanding correctly Tom. I am going to get a 00 wire to eliminate that as a suspect.

Is the ground cable still hooked to the dash? If so it needs to be moved as close to the starter as you can get it. Mine is bolted to the bellhousing.

I absolutely second this. Anyone who owns a 6v tractor should just do this as a precautionary measure.
 
wharenj, My I&T book lists either Champion 8 commercial, or AC 86 commercial spark plugs, with gap set at .025. It does not specify an Autolite number, but a good parts store should be able to cross reference them. Good luck with your project.
 
(quoted from post at 12:56:50 03/03/15) I have to also ask, what is the correct Autoilite plugs? My Dad and brothers did like a bunch of farmers did and used what they had. It currently has #386 in it.

Autolite 3116
 

It is grounded by a 24" cable to a bolt in the transmission near the starter switch straight under the battery.
 
I installed a new 2/0 cable and it made all the difference. It cranks fine and I was able to start it. The cable that was on it was a 4ga.

NEW PROBLEM:
As I let out the clutch with the stick in neutral, the engine stalled. I went to restart and all I heard was the starter. Upon inspection, there was gear oil dripping from the bell housing. I can't get under it right now since it is outside and has snow and ice piled around it.
 
I'm not sure where the oil is coming from yet, imagining the seal. I took off my new starter and used jumper cables to determine the drive isn't engaging the flywheel, most likely the bendix spring.
 

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