Crank and bearing inspection

I'm a carpenter, not a mechanic, but have always worked on my own equipment. It was time to pull my 1955 to35 motor down and work on it. Using more than normal oil, fouling plugs need to be cleaned before I can finish mowing a small patch of field. Rear seal leaking like its not even there. Valve's look like they are shot. Question, How do I know before I pull it all the way down if I need to pull the crank and bearings. Whats a bad crank and bearings look like? As you can tell, I'm new to this part of repair. I'm older than the tractor and have never done this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
The fact that the rear seal is hemorrhaging oil is a good indicator the main bearing are loose. Low oil pressure is also an indicator of worn bearings. If the bearings are worn, chances are the crank will be out of tolerance too. A visual inspection will reveal major problems, measuring with a micrometer will tell if it's within tolerance or needs grinding.

Trying to do ring and bearing job without splitting the tractor can be done, but IMHO, a major shortcut. If you are doing this for a working tractor, it will greatly reduce the life of the repair. If you are building for show and parades, you can buy a lot of time.

Murphy is always watching! How's the saying go, "There'e never time to do it right, but always time to do it over!" LOL
 
I agree, if you are gonna do a job, you might as well do it all the way. I think it is easier to change the rear seal with the crank out anyway. The crank should have no marks on it at all. A micrometer is best, as my crank was egg shaped, but you could use plastic gauge. Instructions are on the package.
 
You will have to split to do the seal but it could also be the tranny seal. If oil pressure is good you could forego the bearings. Worn seals can be from old age and not just an out of round crank.
 

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