Removing Rusty piston

Continuing from advice on buying a fergie http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1160360

The egine has been soaked for a month with lube to free pistons. this has not worked.

I have removed the sump.
Disconnected conrods from cylinder 2 and 3 as pistons rusted to bore.
Got the pistons moving in the bore of the rusted pistons.
However the pistons will only go up so far as it seems the conrods are hitting the sleeves as they are pushed up.
As its seized i cannot turn the crankshaft to straighten up the conrods.

The egine is still in the tractor and wondering if the piston and rods should be able to be removed this way.

Pistons and bore look OK now tidied up. So the bearings on 2 and 3 need replacing.

I think maybe time to undo all conrods from the crank and make sure that the crank itself is not seized, the deal with the pistons.

First time i have done this so happy to here peoples advice and experiences.
PS. would be bloody nice to have the engine out of tractor instead of doing it from underneath.

sound like you need new rings and connecting rod bearings. I had somewhat if the same problem with the tractor I got. it would not turn over. I tried soaking as well, but had not luck. so my advise would be unbolt all rod and see if you can free the crank. once freed drive the piston up through using wood block. you may have to make a block to drive the piston back down a little until you get lube on both sides of the rings. be careful not to hit the journals on the crank with the connecting rods maybe cover them with a cloth. it may be a good idea to cut the ring at the top of the cylinder sleeve and hone the cylinder wall. once smooth your ready to go. it would be good to clean up as much of the old oil as you can I use diesel fuel or kerosene as lube to free the pistons. if you have more questions I will do my best to help

Don't do all this by yourself if you never did it before, just because.
Might as well start taking the front end off, brace up the arsend and lay the bloody engine on a pallet. Not only is it safer, and easier, but the clutch must need replacing too, so no time like the present.
I had posted pictures on here several times over the years, search the archives and see what pops up. I had one heck of a time with the huge Perkins 212 I mentioned on another post lately, but a fergie stripped block can be manhandled easy enough. Big help is to have 2 roller jacks, or an atv jack, to align the clutch spline back, but the rest is doable will good ol muscle... got a manual??

(quoted from post at 15:19:53 10/11/14) sound like you need new rings and connecting rod bearings. I had somewhat if the same problem with the tractor I got. it would not turn over. I tried soaking as well, but had not luck. so my advise would be unbolt all rod and see if you can free the crank. once freed drive the piston up through using wood block. you may have to make a block to drive the piston back down a little until you get lube on both sides of the rings. be careful not to hit the journals on the crank with the connecting rods maybe cover them with a cloth. it may be a good idea to cut the ring at the top of the cylinder sleeve and hone the cylinder wall. once smooth your ready to go. it would be good to clean up as much of the old oil as you can I use diesel fuel or kerosene as lube to free the pistons. if you have more questions I will do my best to help

Click to expand...

Cheers.

Yep will need new rings and bearing. Recon i ll undo all rods and hopeful get enough movement to get pistons out.

Watched some you tube vids, where people set siezed pistons on fire, interesting.

Yeah tony I love lying in the dirt on my back with my head stuck up donk !!

I ll do some searching Cheers

Sounds like it's time to get the engine out and do a complete tear down. If the crank still won't turn, most likely it's seized.

Pistons and rings rust in place and stick. Crank bearings don't stick, they seize, big difference! You say the 2 and 3 rod bearings are bad... How bad? If they failed from lack of lubrication, just about 100% chance the crank surface is going to need to be ground too.

If you have the head off, and have been beating the pistons loose, real good chance the cylinder sleeves have moved. There are o rings at the bottom of the sleeves. If they move any at all the o rings will need to be replaced or they will leak coolant in the oil.

I think I would invest in an engine stand and take it off the
tractor. They run about $60 give or take and well worth having
for this kind of work. I bought one years ago to work on my
TO30 it makes the job a lot easier and safer.

Hi

Engine is spinning like a baby.

2 and 3 pistons are out. I'll pull out 1 and 4. Clean em up, new bearings, get the head checked

Was going to replace oil pump while here. Do you think that's worth doing ?

you can replace as much or as little as you feel. is the crank in good shape and turn smoothly?

Here are the pistons. Thought the first one was cracked, but the 2nd one was the same. Wonder why it has this slit.

Crank is turning great after more lub and cleaning
.

(quoted from post at 07:41:47 10/14/14) Thought the first one was cracked, but the 2nd one was the same. Wonder why it has this slit.

Click to expand...

Expansion slots , fell for the same thing myself . Pistons don't look too bad . Are you working on this this for yourself or to sell on ?

Ha Charles.

For my self and maybe to sell down the track. Yeah came to the conclusion they where expansion slots. Certainly learning heaps.

Hi Ok back on the job after 3 months break.


Below is a photo when i pulled the head off. Trying to guess what the problem was re the water getting in. Eg: blown head gasket, there are no holes in it, or water coming in thru the exhaust, as it was 2 and 3 cylinders that where rusty.


The aim is to get it working well without totally rebuild the everything.

wondering if i should take out the linears and do seals or leave them, as the linears look good

The linears and conrods have punch marks on them so it may have been apart before.


Before


After with 2 and 3 pistons removed and re honing linears on 2 and 3 cylinder

(quoted from post at 23:51:29 02/20/15) Hi Ok back on the job after 3 months break.


Below is a photo when i pulled the head off. Trying to guess what the problem was re the water getting in. Eg: blown head gasket, there are no holes in it, or water coming in thru the exhaust, as it was 2 and 3 cylinders that where rusty.


The aim is to get it working well without totally rebuild the everything.

wondering if i should take out the linears and do seals or leave them, as the linears look good

The linears and conrods have punch marks on them so it may have been apart before.


Before

After with 2 and 3 pistons removed and re honing linears on 2 and 3 cylinder

Click to expand...

More than likely the head gasket had rotted while sitting. I just went thru this myself. If it was me I would replace the seals while I was at it.