Crack in block

North Gower Al · Jan 15, 2015

Hello all

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1950 TEA, and I have run into a problem. There is a crack in the block where the headstud is between cylinders 3 and 4 on the manifold side (see attached photo,...I hope). To describe the problem, if there is problem with the photo, the crack runs front to back through the hole for the head studbolt and from the bolthole towards the middle of the block. The crack does not go to the outside of the block and there was no contamination of the oil or coolant.

Have any of you run in to a problem like this before and what did you do?

For resources, I am rebuilding this tractor with my friend, who owns the local welding shop. If repair is an option what process did you use? Brazing, welding, preheat schedule, and so on.

Thanks in advance

Al

Tony in Mass. · Jan 15, 2015

Bad news good news.
You got more wrong than a crack. The triangle we are looking into is not suppose to be missing like that. Good news? Well maybe not. someone's had his fingers in that pie before- with crazy glue or something. I bet that missing triangle is down in the water jacket somewhere. That's a heck of a job to set straight.
Sorta good news? If it didn't leak into each other the way it sits, wow.... lucky you!

Steve@Advance · Jan 15, 2015

I would be very hesitant to invest a rebuild on that block. My fear is that the stud will pull out or upheave the surface, causing the head gasket to leak.

How rare are the blocks? As in finding a rebuildable one?

North Gower Al · Jan 15, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:02:11 01/15/15) Bad news good news.
You got more wrong than a crack. The triangle we are looking into is not suppose to be missing like that. Good news? Well maybe not. someone's had his fingers in that pie before- with crazy glue or something. I bet that missing triangle is down in the water jacket somewhere. That's a heck of a job to set straight.
Sorta good news? If it didn't leak into each other the way it sits, wow.... lucky you!

Hi Tony, this engine is the Standard Motor Company 80mm and all the points between cylinders 1 and 2 and cylinders 3 and 4 are the same, that is there are no points just open triangles, without the cracks and the service manual shows the same. I'm not familiar with the Continental engines, to know if they are solid accross the top.

Thanks Al

Bruce(OR) · Jan 15, 2015

I have a lead on a guy who has a '30 block.
$150 plus shipping. I should get it but am currently
willing to roll the dice. looks like the dice have
C***pped out for you.

Grandfatherjim · Jan 16, 2015

(quoted from post at 06:19:00 01/16/15) I have a lead on a guy who has a '30 block.
$150 plus shipping. I should get it but am currently
willing to roll the dice. looks like the dice have
C***pped out for you.

Different engine, Continental vs. Standard

Tony in Mass. · Jan 16, 2015

This is the top of the TEA20-85 I did in June. The top of the block isn't even there! I really honestly never noticed that on mine, the pics of yours was the first that came to mind.
This Std 85 was coming apart even if it didn't need it, just my way of doing things. the tractor was dead for maybe 20 years.
It didn't look terminal, the only seriously broken piece was the dist shaft. And the clutch was rusted solid to the flywheel.
It has no measurable compression, but starts right up and the vertical exhaust can blow out you ear drums. I can't take any other picks because it is soaking up Red River sunshine... whilst me and most of the rest of the fergies sit up north here froze as some outer space science fiction movie props.... what is space ? minus 400? Yeah, it might get that low this weekend....

North Gower Al · Jan 16, 2015

That one looks worse, the block that is, the finished tractor looks great, than mine did when I started, the crack in mine would be under the big bolt at the backside of the block in your picture. My project was started because of low to no oil pressure (0 to 2 psi)when the engine was warm and the engine would not idle at anything less than about 1200 rpm. The engine was also very loose, the first piston could be rotated ( hand on the top of the piston, twisting back and forth) almost a sixteenth of an inch. After I had split the tractor I could just grab the flywheel and spin it and the engine would continue almost a full revolution after I let go. That having been said the compression was really good considering with the pressures of 110, 108, 105, and 110 psi from front to back. As far as the temps this weekend, I understand,..... I'm located about 7 hours drive north of you.

Al

North Gower Al · Jan 19, 2015

I'm guessing that nobody here has tried to weld something like this, so I'm going to head into unknown territory. I'll report back.

Thanks
Al

Grandfatherjim · Jan 19, 2015

(quoted from post at 00:04:01 01/20/15) I'm guessing that nobody here has tried to weld something like this, so I'm going to head into unknown territory. I'll report back.

Thanks
Al

You're in North Gower Ontario? We're not too far apart; I'm over in Franktown. Let me know if you need parts sometime as I have rebuilt a couple of these and have lots of leftovers...no blocks though, sorry. I used to have a website detailing my TEA 20 rebuilds but geocities took all their sites down and I never had (or made) the time to put it back up somewhere else.

North Gower Al · Jan 26, 2015

I don't know about parts yet, but as it happens I will be in Franktown in a couple of weeks time. The band I play in has a gig playing for a dinner/dance for the "Beckwith friendship club" at the St. James Centennial Hall on Feb 4. If you're there I'll be the guy holding the bass guitar.

Al

Greg Vickers · Feb 8, 2015

I had the same crack. There are pictures on here, but I couldn't figure out how to move them to this post. I got another block for 100 bucks. Problem with that location is the pressure when you tighten the head bolt. Plus, when I removed the sleeve, the broken piece fell out. Find a block, and save yourself the trouble down the road.

Greg Vickers · Feb 8, 2015

https://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a3030.jpg Funny, my break was exactly same.

Grandfatherjim · Feb 8, 2015

Missed this comment till now...Feb 4th is in the past. Could have walked around the corner to find you.

Grandfatherjim · Feb 8, 2015

Missed this comment till now...Feb 4th is in the past. Could have walked around the corner to find you.

North Gower Al · Feb 23, 2015

Update time, I found a company that repairs blocks and I took my block to them. To repair the head bolt crack would have been about 350.00, not too bad I thought. The firstpstep in the repair process is to clean and then magneflux the block. Unfortunately this found a second crack, across the center main bering, the repair cost is now about 1500.00 (this includes line boring the block after the crack is repaired).

So now to new questions,
1) does anybody have a good tea 20 80 block they want to sell?
2) I have been offered a tea 20 85 engine, can this be bolted in or will modifications be needed?

Al

Grandfatherjim · Feb 23, 2015

Take the 20-85. The only difference is the bore (85mm vs 80) which gives you about 4 extra hp. Everything else is the same. Good solution.

Crack in block

North Gower Al

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