Ferguson TO-35 voltage regulator points gap?

My charging voltage is low, at about 12.2. I suspected the regulator so took it off and checked the resistance across the points, and it was high and inconsistent one time to the next.
In order to get better access for cleaning, I absent-mindedly unbolted one piece that holds the fixed point above the moving one, and now realize that I get to set the points gap on reassembly.
I've looked around the web and cannot find the spec. Anyone know it?
It's a Delco, 12V, negative ground, 1958, TO-35.
Thanks
 
Hope you get the old VR working again.

I have a 1957 TO35, the part that has to be
replaced the most is the voltage regulator. The new
ones you can buy are much lighter built than the old
Delco.

I hope someday to change to a alternator, but do not
want to lose my tachometer.
 
(quoted from post at 21:10:25 01/11/15) http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/delco_remy_regulator.pdf

This looks pretty official!

I looked through that article and can't find any specs for the gap. :? It tells [b:04f9720153]how[/b:04f9720153] to adjust it, but not [b:04f9720153]what[/b:04f9720153] to adjust it to. :(
Did I miss something??
BillL
 
Which of the "relays" did you muck with? If it was the "cutout relay", you have affected the voltage at which the relay opens and closes. If it doesn't "open" at shutdown, you may burn up the generator, regulator, and associated wiring and/or kill the battery.

If you mucked with the current relay or the voltage control relay, you've mucked with the limiting of charging current to a safe value or controlling proper charging voltage.

NOT good.

At this point, it sure would be handy to have a local automotive electrical shop that still has a generator test bench run the generator and set up the regulator properly.

Since it is a good 'ol US made unit, there's SOME value in saving it vs. replacing it with a piece of questionable crap, most likely from "The Land of Almost Right".

If you go to the site linked below, and peruse the electrical manuals there, and do some reading you MAY be able to get it back into calibration.
Manual site
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:28 01/12/15) Which of the "relays" did you muck with? If it was the "cutout relay", you have affected the voltage at which the relay opens and closes.
If it doesn't "open" at shutdown, you may burn up the generator, regulator, and associated wiring and/or kill the battery.

If you mucked with the current relay or the voltage control relay, you've mucked with the limiting of charging current to a safe value or controlling proper charging voltage.

NOT good.

At this point, it sure would be handy to have a local automotive electrical shop that still has a generator test bench run the generator and set up the regulator properly.

Since it is a good 'ol US made unit, there's SOME value in saving it vs. replacing it with a piece of questionable crap, most likely from "The Land of Almost Right".

If you go to the site linked below, and peruse the electrical manuals there, and do some reading you MAY be able to get it back into calibration.
Manual site

It was the cutout relay. Based on this, which you provided:

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Bl...als/GSS-1012 Electrical Equipment/Page 13.jpg

...although it's for a 6v. unit, and this, which I found with more poking around on the net:

http://42fordgpw.com/voltage.html

I set the gap at 0.020" as a starting point. Once it warms up outside to something humans can withstand, I'll see how I did. The good news is that I got the resistance of the contacts down from ~1.5 ohms to ~0.02 ohms, so at least that part was a success.

Now after all my internet hunting, I am surprised not to have found a solid state version of this regulator. You'd think there'd be enough of a market for someone to have taken the initiative. The amount of fooling around they expect you to do to calibrate these things certainly would take more time than I feel like spending, to the extent that I'd likely pop $30 or whatever to drop in a s.s. unit and forget about it.

Jim
 

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