Starter repair on TO30

While trouble shooting the lack of cranking on my TO30 I had the starter apart.

The soldered connection between the starter stud and internal "wires" is bad. What is the best procedure to repair that soldered joint?

My soldering experience is limited to small electrical connections. My irons won't produce enough heat to get that much copper hot. Do I just need more heat? If more, just a bigger iron? Can I add the heat externally and let the stud conduct the heat? Will the heat compromise the insulation between the stud and housing? I'm slightly hesitant to add too much heat without checking about the right procedures.

I eventually got it started by bending the loose copper wire so it has enough tension to still make acceptable contact. (Without hitting the internal works, which it had been doing by the scarring.) It works to get me going for now, but it's not right.
 
Try looking in your yellow pages for automotive electric repair.
They can fix this for a couple of bucks.
 
I agree with Tom. If you have never done this
before, let an expert do it. Any good auto
electrical shop does this repair regularly.
 
Your advice is probably wise. And I may end up doing as you say.

Yet... for me the fun of my TO30 is doing my own work, including learning new skills I haven't yet learned.

I'm hoping for a description of what others have done in their home shops to repair such a problem. There's bound to be someone who's done it. Or maybe I'll only get stories of failure in which case I'll definitely take your advice.
 
(quoted from post at 23:13:32 01/02/15) While trouble shooting the lack of cranking on my TO30 I had the starter apart.

The soldered connection between the starter stud and internal "wires" is bad. What is the best procedure to repair that soldered joint?

My soldering experience is limited to small electrical connections. My irons won't produce enough heat to get that much copper hot. Do I just need more heat? If more, just a bigger iron? Can I add the heat externally and let the stud conduct the heat? Will the heat compromise the insulation between the stud and housing? I'm slightly hesitant to add too much heat without checking about the right procedures.
I eventually got it started by bending the loose copper wire so it has enough tension to still make acceptable contact. (Without hitting the internal works, which it had been doing by the scarring.) It works to get me going for now, but it's not right.

I did that repair on mine last year. It's pretty straight forward. You just need a big soldering iron. If you know anyone that has the old style that you heat in a fire or whatever...those will work. The main thing is it has to be long enough to reach that connection. You can't heat the post and do it that way. I got lucky and got this old iron give to me from an old tv factory in town that closed. It is ideal for that job. I laid a quarter next to it just to give you an idea of the scale.

E24FCA33-E922-4B56-B23B-65DC5FE9BFDA-6124-0000049B93726348_zpsa230bea8.jpg
 
Back before I retired I had solder re-certification
ever so often. Lots of specialty tools involved,
anti wicking, heat sinks,flux to name a few.
I have an iron a little bigger than the one pictured
and that works well.Clean the copper nice and bright
apply the flux to both and solder then clean with
alcohol to eliminate it becoming brittle or cold
solder joint.I wonder if you could use a propane
bottle to heat the stud and then apply the solder on
the other side.
 
To update the post for the sake of future archive readers....

I was able to borrow an old iron that gets heated in a fire. I got it nice and hot and reached down inside with the iron and it worked quite well.

I put it all back together and started it about 5 minutes ago. Perfect. Much nicer than crank starting like I've had to do the last two times I wanted to use the tractor. And I learned something in the process.

Thanks to everyone for your help.
 

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