Re: TO20 split help

kip78 · Dec 28, 2014

i bought a new ring gear for my TO35 off this website for about $45. I would replace the old one,take the flywheel off,lay it on a flat surface and you're supposed to heat the ring gear up to remove it. take the new ring gear heat it up and it will drop right on the flywheel. when it cools, it shrinks tight. the problem with welding is that it makes it harder to replace,and it throws the balance off. while it is split I would look at the engine seal and the seal on the input shaft. good time to replace them if they need it. new clutch too if it needs it.

georgeR · Dec 28, 2014

(quoted from post at 05:01:28 12/28/14) i bought a new ring gear for my TO35 off this website for about $45. I would replace the old one,take the flywheel off,lay it on a flat surface and you're supposed to heat the ring gear up to remove it. take the new ring gear heat it up and it will drop right on the flywheel. when it cools, it shrinks tight. the problem with welding is that it makes it harder to replace,and it throws the balance off. while it is split I would look at the engine seal and the seal on the input shaft. good time to replace them if they need it. new clutch too if it needs it.

I doubt a new ring gear would do much good, I have a feeling that by now the flywheel is a few 1000s off, and I know what you are saying, I haven't noticed a lot of leaks or clutch slipping, I normally do all that I am trying not to make too big of a project this time

kip78 · Dec 28, 2014

I've heard of people soldering back together ,but haven't done it myself.

S2710 · Dec 28, 2014

Just weld it in four spots to keep it somewhat in balance. It is not a high speed motor so it won't care if it not perfect. I have a tractor that has a piece of the damper pulley broke out and it has run for over 4 years that I have owned it and I have no idea how long before I got it.

Bob

georgeR · Dec 29, 2014

that would be the quickest, if it sticks, my 110v/90a welder may not get hot enough, that is my preferred solution if I can get it to work, silver solder is intriguing, thing is my experience is limited to copper pipes and that flywheel is a massive heat sink, it would need lots of heat and my torch may not be up to the task, and too much heat may warp things, I don't want to split it twice and the drill and tap appears to be the method I am most confident would work the first time,

S2710 · Dec 29, 2014

Take the flywheel; off and take it to someone who has a stick welder. If it is cast steel it will be easy to weld. If it s cast iron I think nickel rod would work, (if I am wrong someone will correct me)

Bob

georgeR · Dec 29, 2014

that is an option I am hoping to avoid, if I take the flywheel off I will be tempted to look at the rear main and the clutch, which works, next thing you know I might go all out, I am known to do that, I am hoping to be as little invasive as possible, I may otherwise get carried away and rebuild the dam thing, which I may do at some point just trying to avoid it this time.

honestly If it came to taking the flywheel off at that point I'd try and locate a revised one.

does anyone have one or know of a source or what a fair price may be?

S2710 · Dec 29, 2014

I hear you George. If you drill and put in screws, you will have steal to steal and then you can put a spot of weld on each one with your mig welder and it will never spin or slide out on you.

Bob

georgeR · Dec 29, 2014

(quoted from post at 11:12:53 12/29/14) I hear you George. If you drill and put in screws, you will have steal to steal and then you can put a spot of weld on each one with your mig welder and it will never spin or slide out on you.

Bob

that's actually not a bad idea, locktite usually works good too

Re: TO20 split help

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