Fluids in a TO 20

Could someone tell me how much and what kind of fluid in the trans and dif on a TO 20. I bought a fence row tractor. I had to split it and weld on the ring gear to get it running. I have removed three drain plugs in the trans/dif area. Lots of water came out. Thanks for the help, Ted

6 gal. GL-1 geat lube 90wt summer 80wt below 50F. This is what the book says. Most are using a 10W40 engine oil or rotella diesal oil to get good all year performance.

(quoted from post at 23:17:23 12/20/14) Could someone tell me how much and what kind of fluid in the trans and dif on a TO 20. I bought a fence row tractor. I had to split it and weld on the ring gear to get it running. I have removed three drain plugs in the trans/dif area. Lots of water came out. Thanks for the help, Ted

Click to expand...

How much: 6 gallons by the manual. A bit less can be OK depending on where or if you have some leaks.

What kind: there you enter the zone of different opinions. Lots use 90 weight GL1. Some 15w40 same as they put in the engine (I do this on my 30). And so on. If you read the archives you can find a lot of information on why people do what they do.

Edit: Jeff types faster than me, apparently. I didn't mean to double up an answer.

Thanks for the replies. One more question. Three drain plugs. I only found one fill point near the shifter. Do you fill all three sumps from the one fill plug? Thanks again. Ted

Yes, pour about half in and let set so it will run to all 3 points. Then add other half.

When you refill it, pour it in slowly. It takes a while for the oil to get from the transmission to the rear cases.

Add it too fast it will dump oil in the clutch if the front seal is leaking.

I have been using Mobil 1 15 w 40 in my to30 for 15 years. The engine and hydro/ trans are still in like new condition. I change the fluids every two years or when it looks dirty or contaminated.

Yes there is the one fill hole. There is a small hole (~1/3 inch dia.) that allows the oil to move from the transmission case to the pump/differential case. This takes time and is slow. This is what Steve was warning about. If you pour the new oil in all at once then the transmission case gets too full and the oil can leak forward into the clutch case area. FYI that is what the hole and cotter pin is for at the bottom of clutch case (to drain any oil out.

Thus, just pour in about 2-3 gal. and give it 5 or so min. Then add a gallon to two and give some time ~2-3 min. to equalize until full.

FYI make sure you drain all three sumps at the same time. i.e. drain each one independently to handle the gush of oil, then go back and open them again as the oil will level out and refill the drained sump. You should end with all three open and drained at the same time.

Finally, did your old oil have water in it? If so you may want to rinse it out. There is a simple procedure posted to do it if needed.

Jeff

here's a tip for you, I did this job this summer, my main reason for it, I needed to replace the pins that the 3 point lift arms mount to, mine were worn pretty bad, likely yours are oval as well, I got those on this site and yes, they install from the inside so this would be a good time, take the entire hydraulic pump off, as you probably noticed there was some gunk in the bottom of those plugs you pulled, guess what? there is gunk like that everywhere, you'll get most of it by removing the pump, as for those pins you have to remove one of the trumpets, in my case the brass bushing in the hydraulic pump was cracked, look there too and if needed order it and 2 gaskets, got them on this site too.

it would really suck to flush the oil just to realize the new one got contaminated right away, or later on you have to open it up again to address some of those issues I mentioned, issues you wont know you have till you get to use it

I had to remove the pto shaft to do all this, for it and the trumpet I resealed them with rtv, if you work on the pump get the gaskets, I resealed it with rtv first and guess what it would not fit back in that extra clearance from the gasket thickness makes it an exact fit.

sounds like a bit and it took me a while because I kept finding issues and order parts, had I had all in hand it would be an afternoon job, these tractors are awful simple you cant screw this up

oh I got the gl1 at nappa, started with a bucket ended up going back for another gallon, or was it 2, there was some talk about not trusting the dipstick but rather pour it till it overflows from the bottom bolt of the dipstick plate, if you remove it you can pour half the bucket through it and the other half through the tranny top, I took my time with it through the top as I had resealed it before I thought of this