TO-20 Oil Filter Cover Seal

Royse

Well-known Member
I'm trying to bring a TO-20 back from the dead for a friend and
having trouble getting the oil filter cover to seal to the pan.
Pan and cover gasket surfaces are spotlessly clean, new gasket.
It doesn't leak much, just a drip once every 5 to 10 minutes or
so, but that's cold and it only has about one quart of oil in it to
check for leaks.

If I rotate the cover it gets better or worse depending on position.
The cover doesn't seem to be damaged from hitting anything,
so I suspect it may be warped from over tightening.
I don't want to buy a new cover, at least not until we see if/how
it will run, but I figure it will leak worse once the oil is warmed up.

So I could run it as is and buy a new cover when ready, use
some sealer on the gasket (which I would prefer not to do)
or I was thinking of using an O-ring in place of the gasket.
Local parts store makes 0-rings any size and thickness wanted.
Good idea? Bad idea? Other suggestions?
 
(quoted from post at 02:43:40 12/09/14) I'm trying to bring a TO-20 back from the dead for a friend and
having trouble getting the oil filter cover to seal to the pan.
Pan and cover gasket surfaces are spotlessly clean, new gasket.
It doesn't leak much, just a drip once every 5 to 10 minutes or
so, but that's cold and it only has about one quart of oil in it to
check for leaks.

If I rotate the cover it gets better or worse depending on position.
The cover doesn't seem to be damaged from hitting anything,
so I suspect it may be warped from over tightening.
I don't want to buy a new cover, at least not until we see if/how
it will run, but I figure it will leak worse once the oil is warmed up.

So I could run it as is and buy a new cover when ready, use
some sealer on the gasket (which I would prefer not to do)
or I was thinking of using an O-ring in place of the gasket.
Local parts store makes 0-rings any size and thickness wanted.
Good idea? Bad idea? Other suggestions?

That cover is pretty solid I can't see it bending. I would think either the flange on the oil pan is warped slightly or the tube that the cover bolts to has a slight bend to it. I usually glue the gasket to the cover with indian head shellac. I would inspect the flange of the pan and the tube real good. It is the original stamped steel pan isn't it? I'm just asking because replacement pans are cast.
 
Somewhere in there is a tube. This tube screws into
the engine one end. The oil cover screws into the
other end. IF that particular tube has come loose
from the engine, the oil cover will never stop
leaking. Drain your oil, romove the cover, screw the
tube into the engine. Turned, didn't it?
Now reassemble it and refill it. Nice oil flush ya'
got there.
Ask me how I found out.
 
Jason, yes its a steel pan. I didn't see any damage to it, but
I didn't put a straight edge on it either, so I'll check that.

Bruce, I didn't notice the tube moving, just the filter housing
on the spring. I'll double check it though. It's only one quart
of oil. Glad I thought not to fill it on the first attempt!

Thank you both!
 
Royse, I was having the same problem, and I ended up using some Versa-Tech #97 (the yellow sticky stuff). It worked, but I still got a little drip, after the engine got good and warm.

I was also overtightening the cover bolt, which causes the seal to bulge out from under the cover, away from the flange.

My oil pan has a dent in the front, probably from a tree stump or a rock, so the flange may be distorted.

Like you "N" guys say: "It's not a leak - it's just marking it's territory!"

By the way: welcome to the Fergy board. I've enjoyed looking at your carb rebuild horror photos. (I have a GB carb on my TO-20.)
 
My to20 already came with a large oring but my cover
an oil pan were both bent so gasket seal was needed.
Best to mark position of cover before removal
whether it looks bent or not.Let the silicone cure
before adding oil.
 
Thanks Tom, I may give the sealer a try.
I thought I'd be slick and put the bolt in finger tight, then add a little
oil and tighten it just until it quit dripping. Problem is, it didn't quit! LOL

Glad you enjoy the photos, the last one I posted is off this TO-20.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to start it up this weekend.
 
(quoted from post at 09:52:22 12/09/14)
Glad you enjoy the photos, the last one I posted is off this TO-20.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to start it up this weekend.
The carb that was full of grease? What was up with that? (At least it wasn't rusty!)
 
(quoted from post at 10:24:23 12/09/14)
(quoted from post at 09:52:22 12/09/14)
Glad you enjoy the photos, the last one I posted is off this TO-20.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to start it up this weekend.
The carb that was full of grease? What was up with that? (At least it wasn't rusty!)
Yep. looked like grease coming out of the drain plug.
Inside the bowls was rusty sludge. Its still soaking.
Here's the post again. Link to N forum
 
Good work, Royse. That "new" carb looks nice! Started right up. (Still 6-volt, isn't it?)

If a picture is worth a thousand words, a video clip is worth a million.

Now, was that [b:8aac3d443e][i:8aac3d443e]really[/i:8aac3d443e][/b:8aac3d443e] "take number one" on the video? :wink: (You're a braver - or more confident - man than me. I sure didn't want video - or witnesses - on my first start.)
 
Oh, Royse, I forgot to mention: post if you need any pages from the Shop Manual or the Parts Book for the TO-20, and I (or somebody) can send them.
 
Yes, still 6V and that really was take #1 on the video.
I had to have a witness there to vouch for that! :lol:
If it hadn't started I just wouldn't have posted it.

Obviously I didn't run it long. Today I'll get it warmed
up and adjust the rebuilt carb to smooth it out.
Thanks for the offer on the manual.
I will keep that in mind!
 
Short test drive today, seemed to do Ok. YouTube

I need a piece for the throttle linkage. It is the small, about
5 inch long, linkage under the dash that connects the throttle
handle to the shaft that runs fore and aft over the engine.
Anyone happen to have a part number and/or know where to
get one? Thanks for the help!
 
Royse, per the Parts Book, the Rod (1/4" NF x 3 1/16") is 181672M1, the Linkage (Lever End) is 187688M1, and the Linkage on the other end is 180687M1.

My old linkages were shot, and I got generic replacements at my local auto parts store. I used the same linkage on both ends, so I don't know why the Parts Book has different numbers.

The rod is threaded on both ends for the linkages.
 
Thanks Tom, I'll see what I can find.
The linkage is broken out on one end and they are rusted too badly
to unscrew from the rod, so I think I'll try to replace it as a unit.
Maybe I can shorten one off one of my Fords......
 

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