Ferguson TO-35 question

Flipside

New User
Hello,

I am a new member to the forum. I'm looking at a Ferguson TO 35 with live PTO in my area. I believe it is a '58 or later model beause it has red sheet metal.

If I buy this tractor I plan on doing any needed repairs myself.

While doing my research on this tractor I found the following quote on this board:

"I understand its much easier to fix a leaking transmission in a MF35 than a TO-35, I have a 1957 TO-35 and my transmission leaks, but if you keep the oil level at the mid point on dip stick with the lift arms in the lowered position, you are ok. Has been fixed with new seals, but the shafts are worn and you are out of luck.
MF35 you can replace the input shaft as they bolt on to the front of the trans, not so on a TO-35. (word to the wise)."

Can someone elaborate on this for me? It seems like the input shaft and seals for the TO 35 are available from YT and are very similar to what is available for the MF35. I have very little experience with this type of thing and I am trying to understand how they go together.

Thanks
 
I have taken apart a 1955 TO35, a 1958 TO35 and a 1961 MF35 and the input shaft and shaft housing appeared to be the same for all of them. I replaced the seals on the 58 TO35 and 61 MF35 and the procedure was the same. Not sure what that quote was referring to.

Dan
 
Flip,
I posted that info, based on what my mechanic told
me, not my own experience as a mechanic.

My TO35 leaks oil out of the bottom weep hole. I
got it stuck one time and did not check the weep
hole afterwards. It was plugged with mud and I did
not drive it in the grass for a while, so the
leaking oil got onto the clutch and ruined the
clutch.

The mechanic that replaced the clutch said he
replaced the seals in the front transmission shafts,
one turns inside the other, I think.

But he said the housing was worn and the seals would
not hold.

All I know:

I am still driving the old tractor, just keep the
transmission oil level at the mid point on the
dipstick.

Buy the latest model you can afford, when you find a
tractor you like, then go to a dealership and talk
with the service manager and gets his advice on that
model before you lay money down.

Most all models brands have some better track
records than others.

Good luck,
 
All my 35's are to's and after replacing only one of
mine it was my experience it didn't help, mainly
because of not knowing to shine up the race and also
shoddy installation so the rest of my tractors get
parked on an incline and combined with not filling
too fast and keeping level lower I've had no clutch
issues.Either to or mf just make sure its a dual
clutch.
 
Thanks for all the replies. The TO 35 I'm going to look at has the dual clutch. The owner e-mailed me the serial number and it looks to be a 1955 model, which is cool because a 1955 Chevy was my first car. I still have that car that my late father bought for me, along with the bill of sale in his handwriting.

Is there any reason to steer clear of a TO 35 besides it being older and probably needing some TLC to keep running?

We had a gas 135 when I was younger, and I was looking for one of those. However, this tractor looks to be a pretty good deal, and being a forerunner to the 135 I thought I may go ahead and get it. This is fun for me, I have a modern Massey for heavy work.

Thanks again to everyone for the help.
 
I've had very good luck with all my Masseys. Make
sure engine oil is not milky. You can expect tranny
to be. Put it in gear at high idle and make sure the
clutch is ok shouldn't grind, There's buying tips
somewhere on your left.
 
There is NO reason to steer clear of a TO-35! Unless of course you find a 135 for a good price.
I have done many repair/rebuild procedures on my TO-35 and I find them really not too bad to work on. I split mine last year and replaced the transmission input seals as well as had the clutch rebuild as a result of leaking seals. Nothing really tricky it just takes some time. I did mine without having to remove the cover from the transmission. I think I took some good pictures, I'll post 'em if I can find 'em.
Most parts for these are readily available, most of which are aftermarket but that is a testament to their popularity.
 
Found 'em. Maybe not as detailed as you require but the first step in any of this is to get yourself a proper service manual.
There's lots of help on this forum beyond that.
mvphoto13002.jpg



mvphoto13010.jpg

mvphoto13021.jpg


mvphoto13022.jpg

mvphoto13024.jpg


mvphoto13025.jpg


mvphoto13026.jpg
 
Thanks for those pics, you guys are extremely helpful. I showed my wife all the replies from yesterday and she was amazed.

That is a big job. I could probably do that with a service manual, 2-3 months and a lot of help from someone that knew what they were doing!

I went to look at the 1955 TO-35 today. I ended up passing on it because it was welded underneath the differential housing where the drawbar bolts on.

I don't have enough experience with these tractors to feel confident on whether or not they are a good buy.

One question I had was should the tractor take off in 2 or 3 High at an idle or close to an idle without stalling? This one most definitely would not. It was a Continental engine that did not smoke. If it is supposed to be able to do that would a carb adjustment possibly fix it or is it a sign that the motor is worn out?

Thanks again for all the help. That was a lot of fun going to look at that tractor today. I hated to leave it setting there but now I get to keep looking.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top