TO20 2 Questions. How Does Oil Filter Work? Valve Seals?

WildBilly

New User
I recently purchased a non-running 1951 TO20 from a widow lady. Was always fascinated by these as my neighbor had one with half tracks when I was a kid in the 60's. Got it running and it runs well but smokes really bad at idle. Under load it doesn't smoke and it doesn't seem to have any blowby gas coming out of the valve cover vent or even the oil filler tube when I take the cap off. So I'm thinking it's the intake valve seals or maybe the guides are just worn out.

Also, for the life of me, I can't understand how the oil filter even works. It's in the canister in the bottom of the oil pan. Removed the cover, pulled the old filter, even took out the screen cage which was clean as a whistle. There are two tubes in there. I assume the center one which goes through the oil filter is an oil return tube and the other one is the intake to the oil pump. But the center tube seems to have no function at all except to bolt the cover to.

My question is, since the center tube had no holes in it and seemed to fit against the top of the canister and the bottom of the retaining plate, how does oil go through the filter? To me, it seems non functional - I can' see how oil get's inside it. I checked that tube for holes carefully and there were none.

I first put 10/30 in this beast but thought it would smoke less with 15/40 Delo 400. It does smoke less, but not much less. And I was surprised by the oil pressure - it starts out with the needle pegged and only comes down to 45PSI when warm.

The oil seems to circulate in the engine heartily and the engine doesn't get hot. **** Should I worry about that oil pressure and filter? ****

I'm thinking that my first step will be to pull the valve cover and see if I can replace the intake seals without removing the head? Is that possible by sticking some bungee cord in the spark plug hole and turning it up to TDC against the valve?

I don't really want to do too much to this tractor although it has great potential for a restoration. Everything is there and everything works and paint is bad but there is not much corrosion. I've already spent more than I intended replacing the funky 14 inch car wheels and tires that were on it with 16 inch Ferguson wheels and tires.

I realize this was a long post, but would appreciate any guidance and enlightenment on how this oil filter system is supposed to work, if I am in danger or ruining the engine, and if intake oil seal replacement will solve my engine idle mosquito fogging problem - Thank you.
 
The filter is a partial flow system, not full flow like newer engines. There is a small oriface to allow oil into the filter before returning to the pan after passing through the filter. I suspect the oil pump relief valve has the spring cup turned over or shimms added to get the pressure that high. Used to see more like 15-30 PSI depending on speed.
 
(quoted from post at 17:08:25 09/26/14) I recently purchased a non-running 1951 TO20 from a widow lady. Was always fascinated by these as my neighbor had one with half tracks when I was a kid in the 60's. Got it running and it runs well but smokes really bad at idle. Under load it doesn't smoke and it doesn't seem to have any blowby gas coming out of the valve cover vent or even the oil filler tube when I take the cap off. So I'm thinking it's the intake valve seals or maybe the guides are just worn out.

Also, for the life of me, I can't understand how the oil filter even works. It's in the canister in the bottom of the oil pan. Removed the cover, pulled the old filter, even took out the screen cage which was clean as a whistle. There are two tubes in there. I assume the center one which goes through the oil filter is an oil return tube and the other one is the intake to the oil pump. But the center tube seems to have no function at all except to bolt the cover to.

My question is, since the center tube had no holes in it and seemed to fit against the top of the canister and the bottom of the retaining plate, how does oil go through the filter? To me, it seems non functional - I can' see how oil get's inside it. I checked that tube for holes carefully and there were none.

I first put 10/30 in this beast but thought it would smoke less with 15/40 Delo 400. It does smoke less, but not much less. And I was surprised by the oil pressure - it starts out with the needle pegged and only comes down to 45PSI when warm.

The oil seems to circulate in the engine heartily and the engine doesn't get hot. **** Should I worry about that oil pressure and filter? ****

I'm thinking that my first step will be to pull the valve cover and see if I can replace the intake seals without removing the head? Is that possible by sticking some bungee cord in the spark plug hole and turning it up to TDC against the valve?

I don't really want to do too much to this tractor although it has great potential for a restoration. Everything is there and everything works and paint is bad but there is not much corrosion. I've already spent more than I intended replacing the funky 14 inch car wheels and tires that were on it with 16 inch Ferguson wheels and tires.

I realize this was a long post, but would appreciate any guidance and enlightenment on how this oil filter system is supposed to work, if I am in danger or ruining the engine, and if intake oil seal replacement will solve my engine idle mosquito fogging problem - Thank you.

The oil flow thru the filter on the Z120 is backwards compared to most engines. The oil flows from the inside out.
 
The valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the head. You need an adapter to connect air to the spark plug hole, the air pressure will hold the valves up while the spring is off.

I'm wondering if the high oil pressure might be related to the idle smoking though. Might pull the valve cover and crank it up. There should be a minimal oil drip around each rocker. The combination of worn rocker bushings and high pressure might be flooding the rocker area. There are also cork plugs in the ends of the rocker shaft, be sure they are in place.

The high oil pressure will also cause the crank to sling more oil up on the cylinder walls, could contribute to some oil ring leakage.
 
Thanks Diesel Tech. I checked carefully and couldn't find an orifice or hole in that pipe. I thought maybe there could be one plugged with sludge but couldn't find it. I'm wondering if the pipe could have come from the factory without and orifice in it. Anyway I think that I will pull the oil pan and check this all out again and see if the oil pressure relief valve is stuck or installed wrong.
 

Thanks Jason,

I kind of figured that as it looked like the offset pipe was the pump inlet tube but, as I posted, I couldn't find any hole in the center pipe to feed the filter. I have read that this tube is fed from one of the main bearings. I'm kind of wondering if it came from the factory without any hole in it, if I should drill a hole or two in it. But maybe I just need to get a better look at it.
 

Thanks Steve,

I will pull the tank and the valve cover and am betting that I am going to see a much larger oil flow up there than is necessary. Will buy a valve spring compressor for removing the springs with the head on and see if I can replace those seals. I think that I am going to put this project on hold for a few weeks but will get to it sometime this fall. I really think this motor is good - it does look like the head has been off in the past as it has at least one different nut on it.

Thanks to everyone for your help.
 
(quoted from post at 19:25:56 09/27/14)
Thanks Jason,

I kind of figured that as it looked like the offset pipe was the pump inlet tube but, as I posted, I couldn't find any hole in the center pipe to feed the filter. I have read that this tube is fed from one of the main bearings. I'm kind of wondering if it came from the factory without any hole in it, if I should drill a hole or two in it. But maybe I just need to get a better look at it.

That hole is very small and up towards the top of the tube. That tube will unscrew if you want to take it out and verify the hole of there. As far as the smoking I have had some engines over the years that had set for a long time and the oil rings became stuck. I would take it out and work it,get it hot and see if the smoking changes also make sure the tube coming off of the valve cover is clear and not stopped up.
 

Thanks again Jason,

I ordered the gaskets for the top and bottom and will try to replace the valve seals and will pull the pan and check out the oil return tube as well as the oil pressure relief valve.

I think I will throw a tarp over "Old Smokey" and save this for a winter project.
 
I took the valve cover off old smokey yesterday and found 2 bent intake push rods. One of them was completely out of the rocker and the lash cap was down in the push rod channel.

I guess that I could have known there was something seriously wrong with this engine by the excessive top end clatter and the fact that #4 cylinder had no compression when I first put the tester on it. Just never encountered one of these before.

Pulled the head and everything looks great. No damage that I can see. Top of pistons are clean. Valves and seats look very good. Affected valves are free and not bent. Not much carbon in head chambers.

My question is this: All 8 valves had the small intake lash caps and these caps had very deteriorated rubber collars under them. I have not seen these collars in any parts lists and the exhaust valve lash caps that you can purchase seem to be much larger.

By serial number this is a late 1951 tractor.

I have also read that some people put these back together without the lash caps - is that advisable? Can I put it together with the lash caps and not the rubber bushings?

Also this thing doesn't have valve guide seals on the intake valves. I bought the 4 little rubber seals but don't see what holds them down against the valve guide. I would think they would just ride up on the valve stem and serve no purpose. I'm going to take another close look at it today.
 

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