Rear rim repair?

Dave621955

New User
I've got a problem here ..
rim3_zps65bb9952.jpg

rim4_zps2476ea5b.jpg

If I get the beet juice or whatever they loaded these with 40 years ago out and get the tire off has anyone ever welded these rims? Or do I need to try and find a replacement and .. if one is like this should I unload the other and check it? I'm not sure if the inside is bad but in auto body work I've found once rust starts it seems to fide it's way everywhere.
Thanks Dave
 
I could not see your pic from my screen, however the one rim on my tractor was bad and starting to spit were the tire was beaded to the rim ended up buying a new one for the 100 or so dollars you have a good rim that will last for a long time. As for the other rim if it is not broke don't worry you will get a chance to fix it too. I would not put fluid back into the them just get weights or chains. the one rim on my tractor is starting to spit in one or two spots and it still works fine.
 
With the rims rusting like that I would guess you have chloride in the tubes. I do not know if beet juice would make them rust or not. I know some people will take the time to torch out the bad spots and get another piece and weld back in its place. I am not set up to torch or weld so I would go get another rim.
 
problem being it looks like it's already been
fixed once. Generally valve stem is not next to
rim loop.
Dismount assembly. Drill hole 180 degrees away
from rust area. That is for the valve stem. Try to
locate new valve stem between rim loops. Notice
the old stem area. Is it flattened? You can
flatten the new spot with a torch to warm it up
and a hammer to smack it flat.
Back to the rusted area. Tap it out and clean it
up. If it is structually weakening the rim loop,
you might be done. If not, punch out the old
rustey area. 14Ga flat metal oversized the hole.
Spot weld on two sides, heat and beat into
position around the inside of the rim.
Weld the edges. grind smooth. Remember the tube
rides on your weld. Look at gaping wound outside
of rim. Fill with Bondo or whatever you desire.
Paintable silicon also comes to mind.
 
Dave, both of my rims were in similar shape, and, like Richard, I'm not equipped to do the work myself.

I had them repaired at a nearby tractor shop, much like Bruce described. (It's a small independent shop, that does a lot of work on old tractors.)

They cut out the rusted section, and welded in a piece from a "donor rim". They even had a jig to shape the flat spot for the valve stem. Like Bruce mentioned, it needs to be halfway between a pair of loops. I also had them move the valve stem hole to the opposite side of the rim, so it would be easier to install the centers.

That loop could also be welded back on to the rim, if necessary. (You can buy those loops separately.)

If you end up buying a replacement rim, be careful: my old centers wouldn't fit into an aftermarket rim I bought, so I ended up having my old rims repaired, for much less than the cost of a new rim.
 
From what I see you need to replace rim. Yours looks to be to bad to repair. I rebuild rims but wouldn't try yours. You can get a rim cheaper and not have to worry about problems later.
 
I totally agree with all the advice you already got here. A welding shop should know how to do a solid safe repair. But how much is his rates? 75 an hour? If this is a 6 loop 28 inch, a brand new rim might be cheaper than paying 2 hours of shop rates. Sometimes new 12x28 rims can be found for 100 bucks. Tire shops may have the crew mount the tire for 50. You could have hours and hours into repairing this sort of thing. And it has cancer somewhere else inside the rim. Hours and hours....
You got to get a new tube too, either way. Can this last until you find a deal on a rim and tube? Some dealers sell tubes for 25 bucks. Just like the ol days...
But this wasn't beet juice rusting it, calcium chloride- seawater- did this damage. A good weld, rest of the rim ground clean and painted, some people wind duck tape in there to help protect the tube. You need to do this on expensive power adjust rims, but the repair is sometimes not worth it. depends on the shop if you can't do it yourself. I can do it myself... and that is getting old hat. Just remounting the tire on a new steel rim is a timesaver. Must be the spiffy paint!
If you want to put beet juice or antifreeze in there, that's fine, but don't even think of putting the calcium back in. It isn't toxic, it's just a pain to deal with.
While it must have took 30 or 40 years to leak and rust out the first time, the other fluids will never make a mess like this if/when they start leaking.
 
Ooooh miner... for us Yankees.... this is what your car looks like after 2 or 3 years... never mind a calcium filled tire..
 
Tony, isn't that the truth! I have a 2012 Dodge Ram with a rust hole if the front fender already... Anyway I drained a small amount of fluid out of both rears and it is chloride. I've got a couple of projects that needing finishing before winter, which if the weather we're having is any indication it could be any week now, we already had snow showers and then I'll drain the ballast, take the tires off and check the rims out and if they are fixable I'll sandblast them. Thanks for the suggestion Bruce, I never thought of patching the rims. I've been welding since I was a kid but never welded up a rim, just about everything else but never a rim. Should be interesting. If the really bad rim isn't fixable where do you suggest I buy one?

I've got a couple more questions about the oil filter system / conversion?? but that can wait - one thing at a time and I've got all winter.

Dave
 
(quoted from post at 20:34:11 10/09/14) If the really bad rim isn't fixable where do you suggest I buy one?
Dave, if you want a rim with round loops, like the original, they're hard to find - most of the aftermarket rims use square loops. (That's another reason I had my old rim repaired.)

I think Jason found a Titan rim with round loops.

What size is your rim?
 
Tom, the ring is 10" (bead to bead) x 28", tires are 14.9 x 28.

I'm almost done with the tables I'm building for the daughters, then the wood shop can officially become a shop - shop for the winter and I'll get the tires off. Still playing around with it though, replaced the tune up parts and its running really good.

Question for all, is there a place to post one thread for an entire "sort of" restoration where I can ask questions as I come to them or do I post questions as they come up?

Thanks Dave
 
Finally got time to get the rims back from the shop.
rim10_zps0fce22e6.jpg

rim11_zps7f0254a4.jpg

Now I'm a pretty good welder but this is beyond repair, in fact the shop wouldn't even remount the tires for me "IF" I fixed the rims so -- what's my options? Any one out there have a couple of spares laying around they'd sell? Or who sells decent rings for a fair price? any help would be welcome. The rings are 9" bead seat to bead seat x 28". Thanks Dave
 

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