Glow Plug question, 58 TO-35, with 23 C

Just rewired the 4 Delphi HDS 317 glow plugs, using 10 gauge multi-strand copper with multi layer cover insulation. Did both the hot and ground sides in a series manner, ground connection under ceramic insulator closest to glow plug core, collaring the brass center, and using metal top of glow plug for the hot wiring with the aluminum finger nuts holding the power wiring to the center threaded post, which compressed the ceramic insulator causing a tight fitment for the ground wiring path. Ground wiring ends at the top front bolt on the oil filler neck, cleaned and tight.

Resistor under dash turns a bright reddish orange, yet with glow plugs wired and placed on an insulated mat next to engine with ground attached to bolt in top front of oil filler neck going into the engine block, the glow plugs were warm, not hot, but did not glow, and indications of the hot feed wire from resistor under dash was melting at its' connection to that resistor, (bubbling insulation).

Have I wired this wrong, as I think the glow plugs should show a color change similar to the resistor under dash?

Second question should I be using larger than 10 gauge for the primary feed from under dash resistor to first glow plug?

I'm also interested in finding a workable solution for this as well. I have a TO35 with a 23C as well. There are a number of threads concerning the glow plugs for the 23C. I don't think being wired in series is the correct method for the glow plugs you are using. Ultimately I believe we may need to wire them in parallel and use a controller. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can jump in.

In the mean time check out some of the other links.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=855211

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=715099

http://www.soggers.ca/tractor/glow_plug_info/glow_plugs.html

Also, I believe those are 14mm glow plugs, correct? I think there is a 10mm glow plugs that is mentioned in some of those threads, if it turns out that those will provide a better solution I can have adapters made to make the change.

No, the glow plugs better not get red hot, but, they should 'feel' hot to the touch. It my take a couple minutes of holding the switch on to do this, we are doing 1950's technology here. My Dodge Cummings can make me wait a minute to start in this weather.
It sounds like you are wired correctly- you got a manual? You got a camera? Post us a pic of your engine and under the dash if you can focus in there.
I catch flack for this, but glow plugs in my 23C was a waste of several hundred dollars, yet a $1.99 can of starting fluid can get it going immediately- for 40 or 50 times.
If ether was such harmful dangerous stuff, you'd need a prescription to buy it eh???

All

Thanks for the quick responses. I am not a believer in "Quick Start", to many of my previous drivers caused ring and piston damage on big Cat diesels using just a "little" to much ether.

Found on page 48 of my TO-35 parts manual, issue #4, the picture showing the "series" wiring sequence.

Hot lead from under dash resistor to the outer pole of rear most plug.

Wire connecting that plug to the next one forward both connected on the inner core pole beneath the ceramic insulator.

From this next plug to the plug ahead of it connecting to the outer poles.

From this third plug forward to the front plug connecting on the inner cores again beneath the ceramic insulators.

Finally the ground strap attaches to the outer pole of the front glow plug and to the engine block at top front bolt of oil filler neck.

Rewired with this scheme, switched the preheat on for 40 seconds, no bright reddish orange glow from under dash resistor this time, but felt slight heat from it, pulled throttle wide open, turned key to heat/start position and engine started in approximately 5 seconds of cranking.

Scared me as this was the first time that engine started this quickly, and with no large amount of unburnt diesel smoke exhausting on start up. Temperature in barn today was about 50 F. In past when I thought glow plugs were working it took about 30-45 seconds of cranking and a lot of unburnt diesel exhaust on finally starting.

Hope this wiring explanation helps others. Sure surprised me on how quick the 23 C responded.

Fx

I generally turn the key to the heat side and count. Depending on the temp of the motor and the ambient determines when I turn to start. Generally I only count to 20 - 25 and it starts right up..... unless... I forget to push in the cutoff. In the past before I got it, mine had been started all to often with ether/starting fluid and the effects of that are evident. If it doesn't start within 5 rev's then something else is wrong.