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trans fluid on to-35

J

jennifer408

Well-known Member
my lift arms on the 3 point are raising real slow. i checked the fluid level and it is a bit low. i want to top it off, but i don't know what kind of fluid to use. im looking at my shop manual and it says it takes 32 qts but it doesn't say what kind of fluid im supposed to use. does anyone know ?
 
my 1957 TO-35 uses GL-1 90 weight mineral oil in the transmission, lift and differential sump.

it takes 8 gals to fill it from empty.

how many years has it been since you changed this oil?

if it's been years, then you may need to change it out this summer.

many use 10w30 oil, probably cheaper and easier to get than the GL-1 mineral oil

I just changed my oil out this last summer, I got the GL-1 mineral oil from NAPA, but again, I am not saying to use that oil.
 
i just bought it a few weeks ago, it looks clean, fresh, not old at all. ok, napa or 10w30 oil ? that's not motor oil is it ?
 
The oil would have to be really low to cause the
hydraulics to have problems.

If it has 90w gear oil, as in really thick oil, it
will slow down the lift in cold weather.

The 10w30, 10w40 motor oil will work better.

The slow operation could also be a sign of other
problems though. May be a simple adjustment of the
spool valve, or an internal leak.

Does the lift have power? As in the ability to
lift an implement? If it's slow and has no power,
that's something up with the relief valve. If it's
slow, and creeps back down quickly when the engine
is shut off, that's cylinder seals or the transfer
line from the pump to the cylinder.

Is the motion steady, or is it jerky? If it's
jerky there is a problem with the hydraulic pump
valves.

I would find out what the problem is before adding
or changing the oil, just in case you have to go
in there. This sounds confusing, but it's really
not hard to repair. Takes some muscle to get the
top cover off and back on, best with two people.
Study the manual, it will explain it better than I
can.
 
good idea, no use adding oil until i find out what the problem is. i think it has GL-1 90 weight mineral oil in it. it's not motor oil or gear oil. ok, so it says here to remove inspection cover. is that the plate on the right side with the dip stick in it ?
 
Yes Jennifer that is exactly what it is, motor oil. With all the improvements in oil since your tractor was built this is as good or better than the oil that came in your tractor when new. If you use the same oil in the engine you only need to have one kind of oil on hand. You want to have your oil warmed up and use the hydraulics for a while to really get the oil stirred up to make sure it hasn't been setting for a while as the bad stuff will settle to bottom and then all you are doing is checking for amount of oil not to see if it is contaminated.
 
Yes, under the inspection plate on the right side (your right as sitting on tractor) you will find the adjustment for the hydraulic valve.

There will be a lever coming down from the lift control handles. It pushes the roller lever from the pump valve slightly to the rear when raising the arms. It will only move about 1/4 inch, this is normal.

You can start the engine with the cover off but DO NOT REACH PAST THE AREA OF THE LEVERS!!!! THERE ARE MOVING PARTS INSIDE EVEN WHEN IN NEUTRAL!

Carefully push back on the roller lever, the arms should go up. Do not over travel them!

If the arms move up and down as you move the roller lever, the problem is in the adjustment of the control valve.

Shut the engine off. follow the roller lever down to just below the oil level, there will be an adjustment nut. Turn it about 1/2 turn clockwise, start up and try the lift. Keep adjusting, make small adjustments until the arms respond correctly.

If moving the roller lever does not cause the arms to move at a normal, steady rate, there are other problems with the hydraulics, but try this first. Again, BE CAREFUL of reaching in with the engine running!
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is if someone over the years installed a new pump it may have a filter. If the filter is clogged up you will also get a slow lift. This picture shows a pump with a filter at the back left corner. You can also see the inspection cover openings ether side of the pump. If you have a filter, it is accessed by taking off the round side cover with the PTO shift handle in it. The control valve is behind the round cover with the dipstick.

Dan
a145313.jpg
 
My oil looked clean and fresh too - on the dipstick. But when I changed it due to slow operation in the cold, I found an ALARMING amount of water in it. Sitting at the bottom of the sump.

Many here stress that changing the oil should be an annual ritual. I now absolutely agree. I will get to do it a couple times this spring just to flush things out. And 10w30, whatever is on sale, works VERY much better in the cold than 90w.
 
I always check hydraulic/differential sump oil level
with the lift arms in the down position.

That way the cylinder oil is in the sump and I never
put more oil in the sump than 1/2 way on the dip
stick. Some times if you fill the sump too full
the oil will run out the front of the transmission.

Be sure, be sure, be sure the drain hole in the
bottom of the transmission is open. If not and you
add to much oil and it runs out and the drain is not
open, the oil gets on the clutch pad, bad!!!!

Word to wise, if tractor is new to you, there might
be a reason the oil level was left low!!!!!
 
Word to wise, if tractor is new to you, there might
be a reason the oil level was left low!!!!!
Click to expand...
One of which might be, leaky wheel bearing seals. The seals on this site that do not require breaking down the bearing, but just go over it, work GREAT BTW. Just pack some grease in the bearing and seal it up. DUN. Then you get to clean up the brake parts.
 
(quoted from post at 07:19:14 02/14/14) I always check hydraulic/differential sump oil level
with the lift arms in the down position.

That way the cylinder oil is in the sump and I never
put more oil in the sump than 1/2 way on the dip
stick. Some times if you fill the sump too full
the oil will run out the front of the transmission.

Be sure, be sure, be sure the drain hole in the
bottom of the transmission is open. If not and you
add to much oil and it runs out and the drain is not
open, the oil gets on the clutch pad, bad!!!!

Word to wise, if tractor is new to you, there might
be a reason the oil level was left low!!!!!
Click to expand...



good tip :) i might have checked the fluid level with the arms up. i will check it again. the tractor was warmed up when i checked it and by comparison the 9n was cold and they worked fine when cold. thanks for all the help, i'll go try out the new advice and report back,
 
I use universal transmission/hydraulic oil, which
is really 20w non-detergent motor oil in my T0-35.
It is available at most auto parts stores. You
really do not want the 90w gear oil. As long as
the oil is clear on the dip stick, there is really
no need to change it. If is is milky colored, it
has water in it and needs to be changed.
 
Larry,
as I understand the GL-1 90 weight mineral oil was used back in the day to protect the bronze bushings in the transmission. Some said old heavy trucks of that day, used the same oil in there transmissions. who knows???

the hydraulic pump would work with normal hydraulic oil.

I assume the oils of today (10w30) etc: have much better lube properties than the normal motor oil did back in the mid 50's.

at this stage in the life of our old tractors, I am sure almost any oil is better than no oil.

I do notice that the lift is slow on a cold morning with the GL-1 90 weight mineral oil.
but I am in no hurry, so I just warm up the tractor then raise the lift and it is ready to go. I always leave the tractor with the lift in the down position, do not want to keep pressure on the hyd valves.

the Gl-1 oil cost me around $16 per gal at NAPA
so I could have gotten the 10w30 oil cheaper, I was just concerned, as the owners manual called for GL-1.
might do different next time, if me and the old tractor are still around.
a145364.jpg
 
If the tractor were new or all systems were recently overhauled then I'm sure the motor oil, universal tractor fluid, Ford 134, Permatran, etc would work fine.

But what if the machine has 10,000 hours on it and everything is not so great, like pump and/or cylinder worn, bearings worn in diff or trans, seal(s) leak a little. Remember this oil services ALL the systems. I would stay with the heavy mineral oil from NAPA in the 5 gal pail, or MF1103 from Agco, why look for trouble, especially when it gets to 90+ degrees in the summer and the oil thins out. If I were the OP I'd get it good and warmed up and change it with the new 8 gallons, unless you know for sure the previous owner did it with a proper oil.

This subject has been contentious since Al Gore invented the internet. [color=darkblue:02d99e2c77]http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=mf&th=39366[/color:02d99e2c77]
 
(quoted from post at 06:36:37 02/14/14) Yes, under the inspection plate on the right side (your right as sitting on tractor) you will find the adjustment for the hydraulic valve.

There will be a lever coming down from the lift control handles. It pushes the roller lever from the pump valve slightly to the rear when raising the arms. It will only move about 1/4 inch, this is normal.

You can start the engine with the cover off but DO NOT REACH PAST THE AREA OF THE LEVERS!!!! THERE ARE MOVING PARTS INSIDE EVEN WHEN IN NEUTRAL!

Carefully push back on the roller lever, the arms should go up. Do not over travel them!

If the arms move up and down as you move the roller lever, the problem is in the adjustment of the control valve.

Shut the engine off. follow the roller lever down to just below the oil level, there will be an adjustment nut. Turn it about 1/2 turn clockwise, start up and try the lift. Keep adjusting, make small adjustments until the arms respond correctly.

If moving the roller lever does not cause the arms to move at a normal, steady rate, there are other problems with the hydraulics, but try this first. Again, BE CAREFUL of reaching in with the engine running!
Click to expand...



ok, i removed the plate with the dip stick in it. then i started the motor and pushed the roller lever (forward in this case) about 1/4" and nothing happened, on the back one that is, when i pushed the front one forward 1/4" the arms went down. i also noticed that when the arms were going back up (real slow) that it looked kinda jumpy, so i might have to rebuild the pump after all. my shop manual says to look for leaks at ram cylinder,stand pipe, control valve and pump side chambers. so now i guess i should pull the other plate so i can try to find these things ? i mean it shows me where the stand pipe is and what the relief valve looks like, but not where anything else is located. thanks for the help :)
 
Usually when the arms are jerky is in an indication of leaking valves in the valve chamber. When you are checking for leaks it helps if you have an implement or weight on the arms. Also be aware that you can not get rebuild kits for some of the earlier TO-35 pumps. I didn"t see where you posted what year yours was,but if it is an earlier one then it will require replacing the whole pump to the later style pump.
 
(quoted from post at 18:46:42 02/14/14) Usually when the arms are jerky is in an indication of leaking valves in the valve chamber. When you are checking for leaks it helps if you have an implement or weight on the arms. Also be aware that you can not get rebuild kits for some of the earlier TO-35 pumps. I didn"t see where you posted what year yours was,but if it is an earlier one then it will require replacing the whole pump to the later style pump.
Click to expand...



mine is a 1958 i hope i can rebuild it cause i'd sure hate to put a china one in.
 
(quoted from post at 18:46:42 02/14/14) Usually when the arms are jerky is in an indication of leaking valves in the valve chamber. When you are checking for leaks it helps if you have an implement or weight on the arms. Also be aware that you can not get rebuild kits for some of the earlier TO-35 pumps. I didn"t see where you posted what year yours was,but if it is an earlier one then it will require replacing the whole pump to the later style pump.
Click to expand...
have one of the very early TO35'S [gray/green colors]. My grandfather bought it new in 1955 and I remember he was on a wait list for it. It's the "deluxe" model with 2-stage clutch and Ground Speed PTO. So I assume it has the early pump you speak of. I'll also assume the pump valves are leaky because it bounces/pulsates under load and is original, never worked on (the 10,000+ hour tractor in my earlier post). This was a great tractor over the years but is kind of worn out stem to stern except for the engine.

So what should I do to get the 3-pt working better, I guess what to do for a pump if can't rebuild? What other hydraulic parts might be different, can I rebuild the piston/cylinder? The early ones had a different relief valve, correct? I'd like to tackle this in the next few weeks or it won't get done once spring farm work starts. Thanks for helping. P.S. I've got a copy of the original service manual Hydraulic Section, also an IT manual around someplace, I think.
 
I think the 58 is a late style, the pump should be
repairable.

It would be easier to buy a rebuilt pump though. I
rebuilt mine, but had trouble with some of the
clearances, would not turn when everything was
tightened up. Having access to a surface grinder I
was able to make adjustments, otherwise I would
have been in a fix!

You may still want to check for leakage from the
cylinder seals and stand pipe before pulling the
pump.

With both inspection covers off, raise the arms,
(preferably with some weight on them), CAREFULLY
look up inside the case with a flashlight,
remember, moving parts inside!

Look for dripping or spraying hydraulic oil coming
down from under the seat area. This is where the
hydraulic cylinder is. There will be a slight drip
of oil, but it should not be flowing.

The pump comes out through the top, no need to
split the case. Getting the top cover off and on
is the hardest part, it's heavy and bulky, 2
people required.

While you're in there, it would be easy to replace
the cylinder seal rings and hone the cylinder
bore. There will be some scratches in the bore,
but unless it's severe, it will be OK. There is
also a rubber boot around the top link, where the
top 3 point attaches. It needs to be in good
condition to keep water out of the transmission.
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:00 02/14/14) I think the 58 is a late style, the pump should be
repairable.

It would be easier to buy a rebuilt pump though. I
rebuilt mine, but had trouble with some of the
clearances, would not turn when everything was
tightened up. Having access to a surface grinder I
was able to make adjustments, otherwise I would
have been in a fix!

You may still want to check for leakage from the
cylinder seals and stand pipe before pulling the
pump.

With both inspection covers off, raise the arms,
(preferably with some weight on them), CAREFULLY
look up inside the case with a flashlight,
remember, moving parts inside!

Look for dripping or spraying hydraulic oil coming
down from under the seat area. This is where the
hydraulic cylinder is. There will be a slight drip
of oil, but it should not be flowing.

The pump comes out through the top, no need to
split the case. Getting the top cover off and on
is the hardest part, it's heavy and bulky, 2
people required.

While you're in there, it would be easy to replace
the cylinder seal rings and hone the cylinder
bore. There will be some scratches in the bore,
but unless it's severe, it will be OK. There is
also a rubber boot around the top link, where the
top 3 point attaches. It needs to be in good
condition to keep water out of the transmission.
Click to expand...



ok, thanks, my old man will help me and we have a motor lift, so we can work smart, not hard. thanks for the advice.
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:36 02/14/14)
(quoted from post at 18:46:42 02/14/14) Usually when the arms are jerky is in an indication of leaking valves in the valve chamber. When you are checking for leaks it helps if you have an implement or weight on the arms. Also be aware that you can not get rebuild kits for some of the earlier TO-35 pumps. I didn"t see where you posted what year yours was,but if it is an earlier one then it will require replacing the whole pump to the later style pump.
Click to expand...
have one of the very early TO35'S [gray/green colors]. My grandfather bought it new in 1955 and I remember he was on a wait list for it. It's the "deluxe" model with 2-stage clutch and Ground Speed PTO. So I assume it has the early pump you speak of. I'll also assume the pump valves are leaky because it bounces/pulsates under load and is original, never worked on (the 10,000+ hour tractor in my earlier post). This was a great tractor over the years but is kind of worn out stem to stern except for the engine.

So what should I do to get the 3-pt working better, I guess what to do for a pump if can't rebuild? What other hydraulic parts might be different, can I rebuild the piston/cylinder? The early ones had a different relief valve, correct? I'd like to tackle this in the next few weeks or it won't get done once spring farm work starts. Thanks for helping. P.S. I've got a copy of the original service manual Hydraulic Section, also an IT manual around someplace, I think.
Click to expand...




??????????? ah, earth calling pappa bear, come in pappa bear, i think we got a live one.
 
(quoted from post at 03:03:37 02/15/14)
(quoted from post at 18:46:42 02/14/14) Usually when the arms are jerky is in an indication of leaking valves in the valve chamber. When you are checking for leaks it helps if you have an implement or weight on the arms. Also be aware that you can not get rebuild kits for some of the earlier TO-35 pumps. I didn"t see where you posted what year yours was,but if it is an earlier one then it will require replacing the whole pump to the later style pump.
Click to expand...



mine is a 1958 i hope i can rebuild it cause i'd sure hate to put a china one in.
Click to expand...

I believe it was late 1957 when they went to the later style pump. I don't have the serial number in front of me to tell you exactly when they changed but if you go to agcopartsbook.com and go down to view books as a guest and go to the TO-35 parts book it should tell you the serial number that they went to the later style pump. Whether you rebuild yours or buy another make sure you replace the relief valve or you could end up with a busted top cover and cylinder. That has happened to many people because the lift gets out of adjustment and the relief valve is corroded and bang...busted lift cover. They used two relief valves depending on the lift cover. They had an earlier thinner lift cover and a later thicker cover.
 
mine is a 1958 i hope i can rebuild it cause i'd sure hate to put a china one in.[/quote]



the relief valve is one of the things that im supposed to check. my shop manual doesn't give me a clue of where it's located. it just says "here's what it looks like"
does anyone know where they are located ?
 
The relief valve is just about above the control valve you where moving inside the right side access cover. If you look at the picture of the pump I posted below, the safety wire from the top of the filter goes over to the base of the relief valve.

Dan
 



oh, ok, that pic is looking down through the top. so the relief valve is behind the left side plate with the pto handle on it. or the top side of the pic. question: when i pull that plate off is there something that handle is connected to with a cotter pin or something, or does it just slide into a grove ? i've never taken one off before :) thanks
 
The relief valve is behind the right side plate with the dipstick in it and the filter in the picture is behind the left side plate with the PTO handle. The plate with the PTO handle will come right off. The lever inside just engages in a slot in the sliding coupler.

Dan
 
(quoted from post at 06:46:55 02/16/14) The relief valve is behind the right side plate with the dipstick in it and the filter in the picture is behind the left side plate with the PTO handle. The plate with the PTO handle will come right off. The lever inside just engages in a slot in the sliding coupler.

Dan
Click to expand...



ok, i see it now. thanks :)
 
If the weather is cold in your area right now and you have the oil in the hydraulics that was originally recommended, it will be too thick and heavy, it should be changed to 10W/30 Multi-grade oil. If your hydraulics have a filter on the Pump, then you should clean the Filter as it will be struggling to pull the oil through if it is dirty and the oil is thick. If you need the information about this, email me and I will send it to you..John(UK) [email protected]
 
(quoted from post at 06:47:05 02/14/14) One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is if someone over the years installed a new pump it may have a filter. If the filter is clogged up you will also get a slow lift. This picture shows a pump with a filter at the back left corner. You can also see the inspection cover openings ether side of the pump. If you have a filter, it is accessed by taking off the round side cover with the PTO shift handle in it. The control valve is behind the round cover with the dipstick.

Dan
a145313.jpg
Click to expand...




i've been layed up and im just now starting to play with the massey again, i have an outdoor shop and couldn't take the weather but it's finally got nice out so i can start with it again. so the filter is the gold piece ? i can't see it with the fluid in the way. do i need to drain the fluid ? or should i just turn off the tractor, put on a glove and feel around ? does it plug in or screw in or is there a clip ? thanks for all the help in advance :)
 
i put a glove on and felt around and didn't feel anything that looks like the pic so im thinking it may be the original or an original style one. is there a way they could get plugged that i can unplug it ? there is only one drop per few seconds driping from the top so i don't think that o-ring is bad.
 
Yes, the filter is the gold colored piece. My 1959 doesn't have one......actually neither did the one on my 1959 202 (same machine just industrial). I'm really not sure when they put filters on them.
You can remove the stand pipe, two bolts and a wiggle and that will come right out. There is an o-ring on the end of the pipe which seats into the pump and another one on the under side of the stand pipe housing. It is often camouflaged as just a piece of the metal. You can dig it out with a sharp object. Replace those o-rings and see if it helps. It's cheap and can be done in less than 10 minutes so if that's not the problem you're not out much.
I can't seem to find a picture of one right now. I can take one if you need.
I do have a picture of a hyd. pump all disassembled. That's something we can help you with. Lots of pics of that.
And the pumps are completely rebuildable with parts from this site.

mvphoto5860.jpg
 
ok, i yanked it and replaced the o-rings. i don't think the stand pipe really has a job if there isn't any external hydrolics hooked up does it ?

mvphoto5862.jpg


mvphoto5863.jpg


mvphoto5864.jpg


mvphoto5865.jpg
 
Without the stand pipe there is no way for the hydraulic fluid to get to the lift cylinder so it's kind of important. :)
There is a kit you can get to add external hydraulics which does replace the cover you removed. It has a selector valve on it.

I see an industrial tractor in the background. What is that one?
 
(quoted from post at 06:36:37 02/14/14) Yes, under the inspection plate on the right side (your right as sitting on tractor) you will find the adjustment for the hydraulic valve.

There will be a lever coming down from the lift control handles. It pushes the roller lever from the pump valve slightly to the rear when raising the arms. It will only move about 1/4 inch, this is normal.

You can start the engine with the cover off but DO NOT REACH PAST THE AREA OF THE LEVERS!!!! THERE ARE MOVING PARTS INSIDE EVEN WHEN IN NEUTRAL!

Carefully push back on the roller lever, the arms should go up. Do not over travel them!

If the arms move up and down as you move the roller lever, the problem is in the adjustment of the control valve.

Shut the engine off. follow the roller lever down to just below the oil level, there will be an adjustment nut. Turn it about 1/2 turn clockwise, start up and try the lift. Keep adjusting, make small adjustments until the arms respond correctly.

If moving the roller lever does not cause the arms to move at a normal, steady rate, there are other problems with the hydraulics, but try this first. Again, BE CAREFUL of reaching in with the engine running!
Click to expand...



in the pic, did i circle the relieve valve ? and the adjustment nut is close to this area ?

mvphoto5867.jpg
 
Yes, you circled the relief valve. The adjustment nut is not visible in the picture but it would be to the right and further down inside the cavity. The nut is about halfway down the lever that pivots back and forth, right at it's pivot point. I would recommend that if you are going to try adjusting the nut that you make your adjustment with the engine turned off then try it. It is not wise to put your hands in there with the tractor running. To make proper adjustments to the lift to have it work properly you really do need to do it with the cover off the machine. The adjustments are very specific and while you might be able to make it sort of work by playing with the adjustment nut, there is a lot more to it. It's likely that some other form of service is needed which would necessitate removing the cover anyway. There's not a whole lot you can do with the cover on aside from troubleshooting which should be done with the cover on to try and pinpoint where the problem is.

Did you try it after replacing the O-rings?
 
(quoted from post at 05:24:33 04/08/14) Without the stand pipe there is no way for the hydraulic fluid to get to the lift cylinder so it's kind of important. :)
There is a kit you can get to add external hydraulics which does replace the cover you removed. It has a selector valve on it.

I see an industrial tractor in the background. What is that one?
Click to expand...




oh, i see the fluid goes up the stand pipe and then back down that other hole to feed the lift, right ? since i replaced the o-rings there is no change. i tightened the adjustment nut 1/2 turn, nothing, another 1/2 turn and nothing again. if i push down on the draw bars when it's slowly going up it will stop, so it has no lifting power at all. the tractor in the back ground is my ford 340B got it for a real good price, it needs a new radiator, some body work and a few other minor things.
ok, so now i start looking at the relieve valve ?
p.s. i learned not to idle the motor to high when the right side cover is off after i dumped a gallon and a half of fluid on the ground today :)
 
It will churn around in there under normal operation but if it spewed that much out you might be able to find your leak pretty easily.
Under normal operation there shouldn't be any fluid coming out of the relief valve. If there is, then that's the trouble. If it's pouring out somewhere else you should be able to see it.
 
the relief valve is still under the fluid. my shop manual says to put a pressure gauge on the left side and see what it reads, if not in the range then replace the relief valve, check again and if it is still low it's rebuild the pump time. i guess it ain't gonna hurt to have a new relief valve on a rebuilt pump so I'll go ahead and throw that part at it before i rebuild.
 
Just a side note to any of you who might not ever have pulled that cover off to check the relief tube before -

Make sure the 3 point arms are all the way down before you take the cover off. If you don't, you get a column of oil that will shoot several feet up in the air while the lift arms drop rapidly. It can shoot all the way up to the ceiling of your shop.

Of course that's never happened to [b:aabaa06ea5][i:aabaa06ea5]me.[/i:aabaa06ea5][/b:aabaa06ea5] I've just heard that it has happened to other people.

:?
 
Before you rebuild the pump, once you get the lift cover removed, check over the lift cylinder and piston etc. carefully too. You may want to freshen it up while you're at it or you may find the source of the problem. There are many other o-rings to be replaced, they are all available as a kit and I think they might even come with the pump rebuild kit. Then it should be like a brand new lift.
 
(quoted from post at 03:23:15 04/09/14) Just a side note to any of you who might not ever have pulled that cover off to check the relief tube before -

Make sure the 3 point arms are all the way down before you take the cover off. If you don't, you get a column of oil that will shoot several feet up in the air while the lift arms drop rapidly. It can shoot all the way up to the ceiling of your shop.

Of course that's never happened to [b:d8c5087482][i:d8c5087482]me.[/i:d8c5087482][/b:d8c5087482] I've just heard that it has happened to other people.

:?
Click to expand...



ok, thanks for the warning. im glad your friend warned you before you had a mistake like that :)
 
(quoted from post at 07:10:35 04/09/14) Before you rebuild the pump, once you get the lift cover removed, check over the lift cylinder and piston etc. carefully too. You may want to freshen it up while you're at it or you may find the source of the problem. There are many other o-rings to be replaced, they are all available as a kit and I think they might even come with the pump rebuild kit. Then it should be like a brand new lift.
Click to expand...



thanks,that sounds like the best idea. does anyone know where is the best place to start looking for that kit ?
 
well, i got the ignition switch for it and fired her up, the pressure shows no pressure at all, so i drained the fluid and im getting ready to change the relief valve and clean the filter. i got a question, would it hurt to put some diesel fuel in to try to wash out some of the gunk out of the bottom ?
 
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