hard to get started

Z-man

Member
when trying to start my 30 I have trouble getting it to turn over fast enough for it to start. I always have to jump it with my truck, here are all the things I have done new battery, rebuilt starter and generator all seem to check out and work just fine, also wiring is correct I know that a 6 volt system is weaker than a 12 but that is what it came with factor so it should work. I have at least two things I think may be the problem negative terminal wire gets hot when trying to start it so maybe something heavier would be better, but I have reason to believe it may also be the solenoid as before I got the starter rebuilt I got the system real hot and I wonder if that didn't burn the solenoid and make it weak it still starts be the gear shift can I get a solenoid replacement or do I need to change to a button. One other cause the may help it carb setting when temp is in the 70's and 80's I still have to crank the engine at full choke for some time before it tries to start any help there would be great also. I know this is somewhat long winded but any advise would be great. Thank you
 

Fitting big fat cables from the battery to the starter and earth would be the first thing to do . Welding cable is really good for this , heavy and able to carry huge current and soft enough to be able to fit around the engine and crimp ends onto easily .
 
Where is your ground wire? Is it is still connected to the dash? If so move it to a bolt under the starter holding bolts. Take off the battery wires and clean all connections and mounting surfaces.
 
Your tractor does not have a solenoid. If your tractor turns over as much as you say it needs a good tune up. When tuned properly it should not turnover for more than 5 seconds before it is running, less would be better.
 
Any wiring that gets hot is either too small to do the job or there is something in the circuit which is drawing too much current, it could be a bad switch causing high resistance, bad starter etc etc. With 6V you always want to go with larger cables because you need higher current flow than you would with a 12V system.
 
it is on the dash but that wire does not get hot and it is very short it could be cleaned I guess thanks for the help
 
I think it could be the carb, I put new plugs and points in the tractor and plug wires so I have gone over some of the basic tune up stuff thanks you
 
If your cables are sufficient but there is a bad switch or starter, putting larger cables on it won't fix the problem. Although getting more current to a faulty component might finally finish it off and then you'll know where the problem is.
 
Has this tractor been rebuilt I had this after I redone the engine ask my dad he said I had a rod in wronr ? after pulling pan I sure did .did a fix and it work fine
 
The Battery Cables on a 6 volt are much heavier than a 12 volt or it wont be able to pass the high amperage needed to turn the starter. Make sure that you have the heavy cables. Fit a longer ground lead to one of the bolts close to the Starter as the Dash Panel where it was fitted originally will be partly insulated by rust now. Keep the Safety Start switch on top of the Clutch housing, it is safer. You can get these switches from this site in the parts section. To test if your switch is damaged at all, just short it out momentarily, if it starts OK then when you do this, the Switch is faulty and should be replaced, if it doesn't make any difference, then the switch is OK. ALWAYS press the Clutch pedal down when you try to start, this removes any load from the transmission and the hydraulics onto the Starter. Your tractor was wired Positive to ground when new, if you change from this you also need to change the wiring on the HT Coil. It does seem as though you have a shortage of fuel if you need choke it like that, so it may not be only the Carburettor but also a fuel flow problem from the Tank. If you need the info about re-setting the Carburettor, email me at the address below and I will send it to you... John(UK)[email protected]
 
I have a to35 with 12 volt system, but as others have said, these old tractors need all the current possible to turn over and start.

I use blue streak points, condenser
Install a hotter coil

I bought #1 size +/- battery cables, only the best, got them at Napa, they can order them if not in stock. They may make a 00 size, just check out which is heavier.
.
Welding cables are good, but only as good as the end connections, if you have those cheap clamp type end connections you have wasted your time and money.

As others have said, you need every part of the starting circuit to be heavy duty and in top condition. No cheap box store parts.

Just start replacing starting circuit parts with top quality part you will find along the way what your problem was any you will be happy with the results.

You may have to change it to a 12volt system.

Some run 8 volt heavy duty truck batteries.
Get battery with most cold cranking amps you can buy, cca.

Good luck,
 
thanks it sounds like heavier cable may fix my problem, have you ever seen the switch go bad?
 
thank you have been much help, so what your saying is if the switch is shorted to the tractor body and it starts the switch may need replaced?
 
do you mean a connecting rod? as this will make the tractor turn hard. I don't think mine has this problem you speak of cause after I put rings in the tractor everything worked fine I started having problems after I had the starter rebuilt
 
No, not shorted to the frame of the Tractor but shorted between the two terminals on the switch, doing that will cut out the switch. In effect it just joins the two battery cables that fit on the switch and cuts the switch out. just use something like a heavy wrench across the terminals BUT mind the sparks...it isn't for everyone to do this way, so you need to be careful and don't do it around anything flammable.. John(UK) [email protected]
 
(quoted from post at 20:19:41 07/16/14) thank you have been much help, so what your saying is if the switch is shorted to the tractor body and it starts the switch may need replaced?
I hate go against the grain here...but as I reread your description of what it is doing, and what you have done... my hunch is the carb needs to be adjusted. One screwdriver, 2 needles, nothing needs to be purchased. See what happens
 
Ground wire moved to the engine. Scrub off the paint/dirt/grunge to bare metal, wipe down with oil, attach ground cable.
 
You are right about the "6 V" being plenty to start it on first or second roll over. Last one I had last winter would start before the third roll over even at 15-20°.When warm on first roll. You don't need to re-engineer it just make it right. Might try another starter or at least have that one tested for amp draw. You also have a carb problem or air leak.
 
so your saying if it does arch and turn the starter (engine) the switch is bad, cause I have done this on other equipment to start them and thought it was normal
 
thanks your the first to answer the question in my post, anyways I did adjust the mixture screw for the idle and that did seem to help starting it or at least the amount of cranking for it to start, but the real problem now is getting the engine to turn enough to start, put new cable and cleaned every possible connection going to the starting system. found out the guy who rebuild the starter didn't clean the mating surface of the starter to the engine and were the starter screws together and to add he painted it also. so after cleaning all the connections it did seem to help, but I still have to jump the tractor by using a pickup 12 volt to get it to start. Does using a 12 volt system to start a 6 volt positive ground Ok?
 
changed, moved wires and clean all possible connections on both positive and negative terminals still having trouble getting the engine to turn over enough to start the engine
 
I did adjust the carb and that did seem to help but still having trouble getting it to turn over enough time to start it I can't even get it to roll over once were or how do I test for amp draw
 
Cleaned battery post to cable connections. That is, cleaned with wire brush to BE clean and NOT just LOOK clean. Has distributor moved and retarded the timing?
 
I had a dry rocker arm assembly no oil to them
I tried just about every thing suggested to you with no result I found an article in the Ferguson Furrows about dry rocker arms and A new assembly solved the trouble
 
Yes!, if it arcs it is cutting out the switch and the starter should turn if the Starter is OK. If the engine turns when you do that, then it must be the switch, because by cutting out the switch, you are powering it straight from the battery. If it doesn't turn then there is something wrong with the Starter... John(UK).. [email protected]
 
I had the head off and put rings in the engine just a few months ago and clean the head and all the port that I could though as much as it sets they could go dry, but even after running the tractor for at least an hour it still has trouble turning over
 
Some pictures of your wiring or better yet a video of you trying to start it would probably help. I think you've been given some pretty good advise on here so I think there may be a piece of information we're missing.
 
I'm no expert but if you read my post I tried to explain best I could and it seems like there isn't enough voltage in my mind cause if I jump it with a 12 volt system the tractor will start fairly quick and I think it may be the battery or the starter had the battery test and it is at 6.3 when not in use. I had the starter and generator rebuild by the same guy and after the starter rebuild is where I had the most trouble so I think that may be the problem thanks for your help and advise
 

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