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Re: TO30 Cylinder head studs
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Thats odd, I've never stripped the threads off a stud or out of the nut and I've built a number of different motors. Are these the factory studs or have you replaced them with something else? Are you using any sort of assembly lube on the studs? If not you should be regardless of what the manual says.
When torqueing something down, there are quite a few forces involved. There is a resistive force from the friction between the surface of the bolt or stud and the object it is in contact with (block, head, cover, etc). There is, also, a resistive force coming from the stud itself as it is literally stretched (the primarly cause of the preload). There is a resistive force between the stud threads and the nut being rotated.
If everything is dry, the friction forces can be quite high. These forces effect the amount of force being put on the stud. This can and often does result in an improper preload on the bolt.
There are two different lengths used, 1 7/8″ which is part number 353964X1 and 4 11/16″ which is part number 1035877M1. They are certainly pricie..... I would try using an ARP stud and nut, they will sell individual studs and nuts if you know the thread and pitch.
This post was edited by DrLoch at 06:24:20 07/09/14.
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