TEA20 starting after 5 years.

pcp20us

Member
Hi All

Trying to get a tea20 going. What i have done so far.

Pulled out plugs, cleaned plugs.
cleaned leads at cap and rotor, and cleaned points with sand paper.
Cranked engine, cyclinders have compression with the fingre test over plug hole.
On cranking dirty water came out of 2 cyclinders.
I think this was only moisture as after cleaning plugs and lots of cranking no sign of water.
I Have spark at each plug.
It had no fuel or water, so topped up both, after flushing radiator several times.
I get fuel runing out the carb at the drain plug. ( i guess its the drain plug, at the front of carby zenith carby)

Put fuel into the cyclinders direct.
It cranks over put no kicking or spluttering at all.
Tried clucthing it behind a car. no go.

Righto, so i cannot see why it will not kick, I have spark, looks like i have fuel and compresion.

Anyone give me advice on checking coil points etc, Next idea is to replace the condensor.

ps. It had a 12 volt battery in it, but not sure how to tell if its 6 or 12 v, as coil and starter look like orignal parts.

I have been reading lots of theads on the net, My grandfather had one of these babies and i want to get this thing going.


Cheers Fergie friends.
 
Well, this first try requires a gullable or rather dumb friend, relative or someone you don't like. Why someone you don't like would help you is the puzzling part. This is puzzling as well. This second party will hold a spark plug wire away from the engine while you safely work the starter as he slowly moves the plug closer and closer to the block/earth/ground etc... at a certain point the engine might start firing, a bolt will send him on his arse, cursing you, while hopefully she runs on 3. Shut her down, put the plug back in place, and Bob's yer uncle.
I learned this from a neighbor who was a forklift repairman, and this was a last resort trick he learned from an old timer. It seems the coil might need??? a charge? polarizing? a reminder of what a coil is suppose to do? Oh, don't be shy of a dose of starting fluid, I'm not.
 
You need to get a compression tester to find out what your compression is for each cylinder then squirt a small amount of oil in each cyl. then retest the compression on all 4 cyl. After cleaning points w/sandpaper did you run a dollar bill through a couple times to clean them up? The coil should say on it whether it is 12 or 6 v. How great of a spark are you getting? Lots of questions to answer in order to get to bottom of problem.
 
I agree with Richard, give each cylinder a shot of
oil. They are probably dry, especially after
putting gas in the cylinders.

The water is a concern. Lucky it wasn't stuck!

Wonder how it got there? Not wanting to bear bad
news, but be on the look out for a bad head
gasket. Might want to look at the plugs again, see
if more water came in the cylinders after filling
the radiator.

Have you checked the spark at the plugs? Be sure
the spark is making it from the coil through the
cap, rotor, and wires.

Try a shot of starting fluid in the carb. If it
will run on starting fluid, that proves it's
getting spark. The carb could be gunked up inside
the bowl. You can usually ease the bowl off
without tearing the gasket. Clean it up with some
carb spray, blow it out, see if it will work.

Once you get it running, be sure to check the transmission oil for water contamination, especially if it sat outside!
 
The 6 or 12 volt question... Does it still have a generator? If so, look for a tag, could say 6 or 12 volt, could research the part number.

If it's been changed to an alternator, it will be a 12 volt negative ground.
 
The spark i recon is weak.

After checking for spark yesterday, checked today and looks like no spark.

Pulled off coil and tested. between outside terminals = 4.5 ohms.

outside and centre= 7.1K ohms.

From research outside should be 0.75 to 0.81 ohm from what google tells me..

Anyone confrims this.
 
If you have spark but no fire I wonder if the ignition timing is off. Or maybe the plug wires are hooked up in the wrong order.
 
The voltage should be stamped on the Lucas starter motor housing and possibly the generator housing.

What is the tractor serial number??

This is a 12 volt Lucas starter for a TEA20:

12voltstartermotor.jpg


The 6 volt Lucas starter looks much different, including the Bendix gear enclosed in a bull nose housing.

There could be a plethora of other causes why the engine won't start, including low compression (on one or more cylinders) and weak spark.
 
Most likely causes of not starting is no spark or no petrol, or both. If you have petrol but no spark you will normally smell the un-burnt petrol and the plugs may be wet with petrol. If this is the case and you had all the plug leads off did you get them back in the right order? I think, from memory, the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2.

The spark, even on my own 6V fergie, is substantial, it will certainly be obvious, especially if your holding the lead when its cranked.

You may have low compression and/or bad timing but the standard engine is a real workhorse so if you have spark and fuel it should at least make an effort.

ps Looking down on the distributor cap, plug lead 1 is at 10 o'clock position, plug lead 3 is at 8 o'clock, 4 is at 4 o'clock and plug lead 2 is at the 2 o'clock position.
 
I would have pulled the plugs, added oil, turned
by hand, make sure it turns, then hit the starter
with the plugs out. Clean out the cylinders. Rags
over the holes. If the oil was dirty, change it
before cranking, prefill the filter if possible.
(notice this is NOT in order as it should be done)
Run a skinny file past the points in the dist just
to break the glaze from sitting too long.
Drain the gas tank, fill partiall drain again.
Initial start would be done with startring fluid
just to get it running asap without cranking too
long on bearings without oil pressure.
Keeep going, it will get there.
 
If you are sure that you have a good spark at each Plug then it is a fuel problem. This could be a poor flow into the Carb or Valves sticking and not allowing fuel to be sucked into the Cylinders. Or the timing is out or the Plugs leads are fitted in the wrong order So check the Compression on each cylinder, you should get a good "springing" feeling as you turn the handle slowly, it should not turn easily. If you don't, then the valves are sticking and the Head needs coming off. John(UK)... [email protected]
 
pull plugs-squirt of oil in each cylinder-spin over.check for spark(drag small file between contacts on points)reinstall plugs and start.remember please cylinders have to have a oil seal to suck fuel up to plugs.
 
Hi All


I got the tractor going Sweeto.... Pretty happy about that.

Thanks for all help.

Bob thanks for info on starter, I ll check it out, but it looks like the orignal one.

do i find the serial no of the tractor?

How do i check fill up gearbox oil and hydraulic fluid oils?

I think i will change the engine oil, assumed the sump plug is underneath somewhere, are the oil filter like car filters as in remove and replace.

Also does anyone have a tea20 manual,

thanks guys
 
Now that is interesting, your IP address indicates you are in New South Wales. Sorry, I assumed you were in the USA.

Yes, you probably have a post 1951 12 volt TEA20. Had you been in the US the chances were very high it would be an earlier 6 volt tractor.

Last question first - the TEA20 manual, either a reproduction of the original or a Haynes after market manual are easy to locate and not expensive. Try EBay as MD Machinery in Victoria are always advertising the after market manual.

You won't be able to do much without a manual.

The tractor serial number is on the dash board data plate above the steering wheel:

Fergy119_zps09ad3cd4.jpg


If the data plate is missing, you can get an idea of the date of manufacture from the transmission housing casting date:

Fergy111_zps755d2efd.jpg
[/URL]

"6 7 3" on my TEA20 = casting date 6 July 1953.

Forget separate gear box oil and hydraulic oil! The TEA20 gear box oil is also the diff oil and hydraulic oil. Use the same multi grade engine oil you use in the engine - e.g. 20-40. I use Caltex Havoline Premium 20W-50 oil which is intended for older, normally aspirated 4 stroke engines, but you can use any good quality multi grade oil. From memory the transmission takes 6 gallons??

you fill both the gear box, transmission and hydraulics through the one fill plug in the top of the gear box. Behind the gear lever in this photo:

Fergy110_zps38942258.jpg


Fill [i:e32db928ed]VERY SLOWLY [/i:e32db928ed]and allow time for the oil to flow through to the diff and hydraulics.

The sump plus is under the engine. You can't miss it!

The oil filter is a canister type filter, angled back at around 45 degrees directly below the distributor and just visible behind the radius rod and steering rod in this photo:

DSC_0129s_zps1d2f26aa.jpg


I forget the Ryco filter part number but you can usually buy the filters from Repco, Supercheap etc, who also have a Ryco catalogue for the part number. Make sure the spring and bottom plate are correctly in the filter canister.

If the tractor has been sitting for some years, make sure you drain and flush the radiator and block and refill with 50% clean water, 50% good quality green anti freeze. The radiator cap should be 4 PSI or 7 PSI, no higher.

I'm on the Gold Coast. Pity your mob of cockroaches can't play football!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

If you need any help, just ask. This forum is full of Fergy nuts!!

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:19 06/29/14) Now that is interesting, your IP address indicates you are in New South Wales. Sorry, I assumed you were in the USA.
'53 TEA20

Hi Bob, Nice restored fergie you got there, again thanks for the info.

Yes I am in Australia in NSW, where we rule at footy :evil:

In the process of topping up hydralic oil as it is good, just low and got the bits for and oil change for the engine today at a place that services fergies.

As for the serial number plate, its pretty worn so i see what i can do there.

Looking for a post hole digger that will fit this beast, have been told an international pole digger will fit?

Yeah you got love the fergie nuts, think i am one... there a special machine
 
Best post hole digger I ever borrowed was home made out of an FJ Holden diff.

Any small post hole digger will fit the Fergy. Standard sizes etc.

The Cockroaches were just lucky this year.
 
Best post hole digger is the Fergie one . An amazing implement , 12'' wide holes three feet deep at idle speed in a matter of moments .
mvphoto8525.jpg
 

I ll keep my eyes out for a post hole digger.

I remeber these tractors ran on leaded fuel. Is it cool to run standard 91 unleaded in these now?

To use hydraulic do you need to have the pto going?

Do you need to use cluctch to engage pto?

Will hydraulic work without anything attached?

Anything i need to know about using the hydraulics?

Cheers Chaps
 
[b:4c07b27211]I ll keep my eyes out for a post hole digger. [/b:4c07b27211]

You can hardly trip over one. They are relatively large!

[b:4c07b27211]I remeber these tractors ran on leaded fuel. Is it cool to run standard 91 unleaded in these now?
[/b:4c07b27211]

Basic unleaded is fine. I use a shot of that LRP (Lead Replacement fluid) with the fuel in my tractor (sports car, boat etc) but then again I'm eccentric and peculiar.

Whilst it is highly illegal and I would never endorse or advocate the practice, dropping a few round lead fishing sinkers in the fuel tank imparts a little lead into the fuel and stops the bottom of the tank rusting. :p

[b:4c07b27211]To use hydraulic do you need to have the pto going?

[/b:4c07b27211]To use the PTO or the 3PL (hydraulic three point linkage) you must engage the PTO lever on the left side of the transmission, below the driver's seat.

[b:4c07b27211]Do you need to use cluctch to engage pto? [/b:4c07b27211]

You must use the clutch to engage the PTO.

[b:4c07b27211]Will hydraulic work without anything attached?[/b:4c07b27211]

Yes. Both the PTO and hydraulic 3PL.

[b:4c07b27211]Anything i need to know about using the hydraulics?[/b:4c07b27211]

Yes. Take it slow and easy: these tractors bite the unwary! The hydraulics and PTO are relatively fundamental ....... or "agricultural".

Don't ever try to pull anything heavy from the back of the tractor - e.g. small stumps etc - or you will have the tractor on top of you in an instant.

If you hook up a slasher, always put an ORC - dam, going senile, I forget what the letters are for - a free wheeling clutch in the PTO shaft between the tractor and slasher.

Avoid steep slopes until you know the limits of the tractor.

Take it easy, learn carefully and you'll enjoy your Little Grey Fergy as much as the rest of the Fergy nuts in here!!

:lol:

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
Hello fergie nutters.

Thanks for replies Bob.. Had it out and about with the grading blade on. All working as it should.
Here is a picture of the old girl. As you can see Its well weathered and rusty.

Got any experience on the best thing to hit the rust with to stop it rusting away before hitting it with some fergie grey paint?

Cannot upload photo atm

PS.. Tripped over a PhD... Post hole digger the other day!
 
Email me if you need help uploading photos. [email protected]

I don't know of any way to treat rust apart from sanding it off.

My tins had some light rust which I sanded back with wet and dry, sprayed with a filler coat, sanded back again until all smooth, then sprayed with two pack.

The engine and other steel parts were cleaned off with degreaser, scrubbing and pressure washed - multiple times - and in a couple of areas I used a wire brush, either by hand or in my drill

I did a lot of research on colour and eventually settled on a Fergy grey from Colorstop in Toowoomba. Their colour two pack was researched by diagnosing the non faded grey paint under the data plate of a TEA20. I think it is fairly close to original. Beware of some of the grey paint sold as "Ferguson grey" - I've seen it much darker than a Navy ship and nothing like what I believe was the original Ferguson colour.

Fergy101_zpsff23bc1c.jpg


(Prior to the final touches of head lights etc.)

FergyatRoma_zps2967321d.jpg


Completed!

I get criticised for the black radiator, starter, generator etc which is not original - they were all grey - but too bad, it is my Fergy and I like it!! :lol:

In retirement I live on a 500 square meter block in a gated community on a Gold Coast canal. I am slowly coming to the conclusion Fergy must move to a new caretaker for the next 50 years of it's life. All very sad after owning the tractor since 1986.

Also, my double axle trailer must go along with my 1966 Jaguar XKE/E Type and 1993 Jaguar sedan. No room to park them in my retirement community.

But I do have my 30 foot, twin engine Sea Ray cruiser in the marina at my home, so all toys won't be going! :lol:

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
Sweet looking fergie.

Pitty its gotta go, I recon drop a v8 in it and drive it round the community :D

I posted last comment from my phone and it said not enough memory to upload photo, I am now on my laptop so here is the photo of the old girl.


mvphoto8671.jpg
 
Hi Again.

Ok Got a few questions. see below

Can anyone tell me what this attchment is, its only on the right hand rear axle.

mvphoto8768.jpg


Also here is the date stamp i make it to be a 57 tractor ?
mvphoto8769.jpg


Regarding oils, Have been reading about what to use in this tractor and reading conflict stuff.

I went to farm supply guys that service fergies. They told me to use sae30 in the transmisson and sae50 for the engine. That stuff is bloody expensive.

Spoke to another place and they told me univeral tractor oil, 20 litres, $120. Have read i think that 20w50 can be used.. Whats wrong with using multigrade oils in these puppies? If someone can clear this up it would be great.

Also been doing some grading, Think a pair of stabiliser bars would be good from what i read. Also a pair of limiting chains for when i get around to the slasher?
Also reading about the zang thing from the states, whats the one that they sell in OZ, and is it anygood and worth getting. I find setting the blade at a required art is painful and if these zing zang things work i might buy one?

Fergie on :roll:
 
23, July 1951 , from the casting dates . I use universal tractor oil or Phoenix bran agricultural oil . 15W40 is fine for the back end . The only reason some won't use multigrades is that they can tend to stir up a bit of gunk from the bottom [ they have detergent cleaners in them ] . Any oil you use has got to be better than the treacle , chicken soup and gravel mix that is probably in there now .
The 'Fergie Positioner ' is the Australian designed and manufactured position control . I use one , so do a number of mates . I would go as far as saying that they should almost be compulsory on Fergies .

Try this http://www.fergy.com.au/positioncontrol.htm
 
I'm with Charles. Casting date 23 July 1951, tractor production date 10 to 14 days later.

What is the tractor serial number?

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
(quoted from post at 00:28:54 07/05/14) I'm with Charles. Casting date 23 July 1951, tractor production date 10 to 14 days later.

What is the tractor serial number?

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

Cannot read the serial no. its pretty warn.

Looking for a tea20 tool box.
A fergy positioner for the 3pl.

If i buy positioner do i still need stabilser bars and the link chains??
 
I take it that your mention of Hydraulic was a 'slip of the tong' or the keyboard? You're not putting hydraulic oil in the read end are you?

The rear oil 'sump' or bath' or whatever you call it is common to the gearbox and transmission as well as the hydraulics and needs ENGINE oil.
 
"If i buy positioner do i still need stabilser bars and the link chains??"

Positioner has nothing to do with sway bars. I don't know how you can operate any implement on a TEA20 without lower sway bars. Certainly a slasher needs sway bars.

I always used my slasher with check chains to limit how low the front of the slasher will go. One rear wheel on the slasher tends to tilt the slasher down at the nose unless you use a solid top link.

I often toyed with altering my slasher to three wheels for mowing the back lawns, two at the front, one at the rear.
 

Might have been a slip of the keyboard... certainly not putting hydraulic in the read end!!

Righto ebay shopping here i come for swaybars, links and tool box.
 
Ha i found the sway bars for the tractor in the shed, sweet now i have stabilizers, there the ones that form the triangle to the top link.


Also i have a hi lo range for the gear box, lever is on the rhs below seat right near the dip stick.

I have read that these where made for rotory hoes to slow tractor down. apperently the low range is weak and not to to be used for heavy work,, Oh well, guess i will not use it anymore for blading!!

This is a picture of my grandfathers tea20 that i was driving at 10 years old, this photo taken in 2002, its in slightly better nick than this one


mvphoto8790.jpg
 
The rods you have found are not really stabilisers . If they attach to the top link and are made of two pieces then they are most likely to be adjustable stay bars . These are for supporting things like a carryall at a set height without having to use the hydraulic lift . The bars you want for a slasher look like a long tyre lever with a hole at each end . They mount to special stabiliser brackets mounted on the axle under the mudgards and back to the lift pins on the implement . Without them you risk the heavy slasher flopping around and breaking check chains or ripping lugs off tyres .

Later edit . By the way the bracket on your tractor is for the Howard rotavator [ a clever palindrome by the way ] so it is logical that you have the howard reduction box fitted . Tou don't have stabiliser brackets fitted , these go where that Howard bracket is , you will need to remove that before fitting one to either side .
 
Yep ok, they are adjustable stabilizers, but looks like i may need the stabilzer bars from your photo bob. I have found one, still looking for the other, but they are cheap.

was speaking to a ferguson dealer today, great to talk to... Asked him about the positioner, His opinion was he recons they dont work. dont shoot me here. so i have a dealer telling me the dont work and some guys recon they do???

Ha bob, is this your tractor in the photo? do you own 2?
 
No, that is not my tractor. I borrowed it from somewhere on the internet.

This is my TEA20:

Fergy101_zpsff23bc1c.jpg


That was the best photo I could find of sway bars in place.

You can't attach a slasher without sway bars and an over-run clutch.

Not sure what you're calling a "positioner"?
 
(quoted from post at 09:11:51 07/07/14) . dont shoot me here.

OK I won't , but I was headed for the cabinet :)

Yes they do , I have one and a number of friends have them also .
I can only suspect that the Ferguson dealer has never really tried one , has not adjusted it correctly [ a simple process] or has some hidden agenda .
The Fergy positioner is just so useful , without it an implement or load would need to be lifted to the maximum height for transport. This increases the chances of flipping over backwards on slopes . With one fitted the load can be placed inches above the ground thus stopping this from occurring .
Mine took 30 minutes to fit , ten to adjust and moments to realise just how good it was .

mvphoto8834.jpg


Pictured here is a friends Fergie loaded to the hilt with pavers , yes he has a Fergy position control fitted and it is working at
the moment
mvphoto8835.jpg


Later edit , I found a photo of some fitted with a grade blade
 
Ha charles, fair enough, thats what the people on this site say, they are good, but that positioner is different to the one i have found on the internet.

Bob this is the fergie positioner i am talking about.

http://www.fergy.com.au/positioncontrol.htm
or a photo.

from looking at your posts bob this is what you have?
 
[i:6652245745]"Not sure what you're calling a "positioner"?"[/i:6652245745]

Sorry, having a geriatric moment there!

I have a Zang Thang, bought years ago. I took it off the tractor before repainting and haven't yet re-installed.

Bob in Oz
 
Hi Guys.

Righto.

Managed to find 1 old stablizer bar, which does the job for raised implements, The rhs has some other attachment connected to the axle housing, think it may be for the rotory hoe, but not sure.

I have ordered a positioner and waiting for it to turn up.

I hooked up the scoop and put it to good use, and yes its a ferguson one.

I installed new ponts and plugs today, its running a little better, have tuned the carby but it still seems to be running a little uneven.

I ready somewhere that somonee has the how to tune the TEA20. could someone forward it to me please. It a zenith.

On the pic below, what is the screw with the spring on it? :D

Its not letting me upload imgs, saying post disabled ??
 
[i:b9661bed1a]"Its not letting me upload imgs, saying post disabled ??"[/i:b9661bed1a]

You can't upload images direct to this forum.

Your images must be hosted on a web site and only the link posted here.

Here is a Zenith 24T2 carby off a TEA20. Which screw?

DSCN0544Small.jpg


DSCN0546Small.jpg


DSCN0545Small.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 04:04:14 07/18/14) [i:734f9e4854]"Its not letting me upload imgs, saying post disabled ??"[/i:734f9e4854]

You can't upload images direct to this forum.

Your images must be hosted on a web site and only the link posted here.

Here is a Zenith 24T2 carby off a TEA20. Which screw?

DSCN0544Small.jpg


MM I have uploaded images before, Maybe that was just lucky.

On the picture, where the fuel line is, the screw to the righ of that. What is that scew for.

The screw with the flat knob at the top of carby is the idle.
The screw with the round bit on it is the main jet to adjust mixture, the knob bottom left of picture.

Is this correct.
 

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