TO 20 brake control shaft bearing

Part #825593M1, are these available anywhere? This is the bearing that's mounted to the brake backing plate, not the one in the axle trumpet. The ones on my tractor are worn beyond repair. Thanks for the assistance.
BillL

825593M1 is a bearing but not for TO20 with TO20 brakes. That bearing is for something else, maybe TEA 20 80MM. Look at agco site brake and TO20 brakes are at the top of same page.
TO20 brake shaft floats and does not use a bearing.

This is fitted to TE20 and TEA20 only
That is a special bearing and not one supplied by aftermarket suppliers. Looks like you will need to make them. Shouldn't be too difficult actually.. John(UK) [email protected]

(quoted from post at 08:45:15 07/04/14) This is fitted to TE20 and TEA20 only
That is a special bearing and not one supplied by aftermarket suppliers. Looks like you will need to make them. Shouldn't be too difficult actually.. John(UK) [email protected]

Click to expand...

Whoops, read the parts book incorrectly.
Here's the problem, or at least I think it's a problem. The hole where the brake shaft enters the backing plate is really wallered out. Do I need to mill the hole round and press/weld in a bushing to allow the shaft to fit? Or will it make any difference in the brake application?
The shoes and drums are good, and were adjusted properly, but the brakes didn't stop well and would pull to one side or the other.
Just like everything else on this ol' heap, it looks plumb wore out to me.
Thanks,
BillL

The top photo is what it is supposed to look like so brake shaft can float . New they looked exact same way.

If the side turn brakes are
seized you wont be able to
set the brakes correctly..To
test lift each side pedal in
turn and if the brake rod at
side of transmission bends
then pedal is siezed.JohUK

(quoted from post at 16:16:51 07/04/14) If the side turn brakes are
seized you wont be able to
set the brakes correctly..To
test lift each side pedal in
turn and if the brake rod at
side of transmission bends
then pedal is siezed.JohUK

Click to expand...

Yes, the side turn brake pedals were seized on the shaft on both sides. That's been the first thing I've taken apart to remedy. Just about everything on this machine is either seized up, broken, rusted, or worn out.
I wanted to drill the pivot to add a grease fitting, but the steel is so hard I can't get a drill bit to cut it. When I drove the pin out, the bushing came out with it. Guess I'll grease it up good when I put it back together and try to remember to disassemble and lube on a yearly basis.
So, what do I need to do about the wallered out holes in the brake backing plate? :?
BillL

It doesn't really matter about the hole other than it may allow dust or mud into the Drum. You could use a thin shim washer to block the hole if you have one or make up a rubber shield. The Bearing/Bush does partially block the hole anyway. The Bearing that you want is adjusted to centralize the shoes in the Drum so it does need to float a bit. You slacken off the two large nuts and adjust the Brakes shoes up tight and then strike the brake shaft with a mallet up and down a few times, to make sure that the shoes are central in the Drum. Now tighten the two large nuts TIGHT and then slacken the brake adjuster 6 clicks and test them. Once they are balanced tighten the centralizer, this is the 11/16 a/f nut below the square adjuster. You should check that the Independent brake pedals on each side are free and work or you will not be able to balance the brakes properly. To test the independent brakes, LIFT each Pedal in turn and if the Brake rod down either side of the Transmission bends,then it is seized at the inboard joint of the independent brake pedal and this need freeing off before the brake will operate properly. The Brake centralizer that holds the adjuster should have TWO short legs or pins to hold the Centraliser, often they are broken because the brakes are adjusted without slackening off the Centralizer first. This is the 11/16 a/f nut below the Square adjuster. If you need all this in more detail and written out for you, email me at the address below and I will send it to you.. John(UK)... [email protected]

Great information, thanks to all of ya'll. I didn't think about the need for the shaft to float, but it all makes sense now. I'm soooo happy that this isn't worn out. I'll finally be able to get another sub-assembly put together on this tractor.
BillL