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steve coonse

07-03-2014 18:34:45

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What weight oil do I put in for rear end and lift on my 1952 TEA 20.

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Bob (Aust)

07-06-2014 20:41:01

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to steve coonse, 07-03-2014 18:34:45  
Steve. It would be impossible to make a gasket to stop water leaking into the transmission via the gear lever.

There is a rubber boot available for a few dollars that stops most of the water:

Suits Ferguson TE20, TEA20, 35, 65, 135, 165, 178 Tractor
Bob in Oz

'53 TEA20
This post was edited by Bob (Aust) at 20:44:02 07/06/14.

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07-05-2014 05:27:03

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to Jason S., 07-03-2014 18:34:45  
Absolutely NOT hydraulic oil. The Gearbox, Hydraulics and rear axle share a common oil bath, about 6 galls, and the gears and transmission would not like it.

Use good quality multi-grade engine oil but don't mix different types. I use the original mineral oil recommended for vintage vehicles (greenish/yellow colour). I think the recommended usage is about 240 operating hours although without the combustion residue found in the engine oil it does not degrade as rapidly.

Check it with the dip-stick and it should be a nice clear honey colour. watch out for any milky colouration which would indicate moisture contamination.

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Bob (Aust)

07-05-2014 00:32:18

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to steve coonse, 07-03-2014 18:34:45  
"What weight oil do I put in for rear end and lift on my 1952 TEA 20."

The same as you put in the front end. As John said 10W/30 multigrade engine oil.

Do not use hydraulic oil.

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07-04-2014 07:21:30

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to steve coonse, 07-03-2014 18:34:45  
a multi grade oil like 10/40 is what i run but if you have 80 grade hydraulic fluid that's what is recommend but don't mix the two

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07-04-2014 08:27:54

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to Trac, 07-04-2014 07:21:30  
That oil should be 10W/30...John(UK)

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steve coonse

07-05-2014 15:09:28

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to John(UKI), 07-04-2014 08:27:54  
Thanks gentleman for the help,got to change oil because moisture is in the oil.

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07-05-2014 15:47:52

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to steve coonse, 07-05-2014 15:09:28  
That can be due to water entering through bottom of gear change lever. It req. A rubber boot fitting to prevent that. It also gets in through the Draft Spring and needs a new seal. You get condensation forming in the housings on tractors that dont work too hard now they will buen it off if they do..JohnUK

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07-07-2014 07:42:40

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to Johnuk, 07-05-2014 15:47:52  
They make a rubber boot that will slide over the Gear Lever and cover the bottom end, this will keep the water out at this point. Look at the parts page for "Drive Line" for your tractor model on this site...John(UK)..

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07-07-2014 09:28:32

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to John(UK), 07-07-2014 07:42:40  
Have you checked that the radiator is not blocked EXTERNALLY. I had a minor overheating problem and when I checked between the fins of the radiator there was 65 years of dried mud, dead flies and insects and enough wheat seed to plant half an acre.

Now that I've spent a hour cleaning it out with a piece of wire and an airline I have the problem that it runs a little cold.

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07-07-2014 09:49:16

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to lmccutcheon, 07-07-2014 09:28:32  
Check the Thermostat on the housing at the front of the Head... It should open at 56 - 64Deg C. In cold weather even with a Thermostat in there, you can often block off the lower 1/3rd of the Radiator to keep it hot.. John(UK)

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steve coonse

07-06-2014 17:23:41

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to Johnuk, 07-05-2014 15:47:52  
Thanks John I think the water is coming in at gear changing lever thinking about making a gasket for it.I have another question tractor wants to get hot,I had radiator checked said its not stopped up,put in a new thermostat and water pump don't seem to leak and appears to be working.It still wants to run hot what else are they to check.

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07-07-2014 07:29:35

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 Re: TEA20 in reply to steve coonse, 07-06-2014 17:23:41  
Ignition Timing could be retarded or Carburettor set too weak on Main Jet. Have you checked to see if the water is flowing through Top Hose into Radiator. The Radiator itself maybe partially blocked internally. You could try adding a gallon of vinegar and running it for a week a then drain it to see if it has loosened any crud from inside. You could remove Radiator and check to see how heavy it is, when it is furred up inside it gets quite heavy for what it is, you would need to replace Radiator or see what your Radiator Repairer says. Have you washed out the Matrix from the Engine side forward with a medium pressure hose, its surprising how much grass etc will lodge in the tubes. If you work in grass, you may need to do this as often as a couple of times a week or more in really bad conditions when there is a lot floating around in the air. If you need the Ignition and Carburettor settings, email me at the address below and I will send them to you.. John(UK)..

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