Standard engine now on the operating table

Tony in Mass.

Well-known Member
Yee. Gidday mate. Too bloody knacker'd to post last night. Don't know what I will be able to do today...sooo...
The engine came off the bell in 3 minutes. Surprised me since the clutch seemed jammed up. In a way it was- brand new disc rusted to the flywheel, not badly, just ? unused? Bolted the liners in like a good little boy, I listen to the masters- and obey.... oh! the 'never fall off' oil filler cap is pretty cool! Most Cont Z caps are old car gas tank caps...
Then laid on its side...ooooh... heap of 'al-u-min-e-um' welding. And I mean heaps. I am wondering if someone lost the oil and had to rebuild it? Then something else happened? Like the chunks gone from the distributor shaft? It couldn't keep time? And the low compression? btw, no little exhaust rotors on the valve stems- only had time to tap the bearings, sound very solid, spins nicely- and quite. The top end was wet with oil, from me trying to start it earlier this week? So last item to take apart is the timing and gov. Oh, on the 'smokey the bear' ruler, the cylinders are 54 mm... I will use a better measuring instrument soon... cheers mates!
mvphoto7768.jpg


mvphoto7769.jpg


mvphoto7770.jpg
 
Ah you have been busy looks like a good project for
those warm summer days with a chilly one soon you'll
be the expert on the standard engines
 
Ah just junk that rusty ole boat anchor then sell me the lights.Can you catch your fingernail on the cyl. wall? Speaking of fingers I busted up my thumbnail this morning, wow that still throbs and bleeds!!
 
In the immortal words of ET..."oooouuucccchh"....
The lights of this TEA? they are like old Datsun Baja or fog lamps... what is your secret project?? A VW dune buggy? You get to Pittsburg Texas yet?
Mickey's wife got the inside track on the world's awesome-st Danish pastry... but the call em cinnamon rolls there. I'm sure she'd give you seconds when they know you got a hurt finger.....
 
....the cylinders are 54 mm... I will use a better measuring instrument soon...

Yes, I think you do need a new measuring instrument........ Your choice is only 80 mm or 85 mm.........

:lol:

I guess you found and didn't lose the little "valve thingy" in the breather pipe where it connects to the valve cover?

You will love that Standard engine. Real simple to work on and robust to the point of almost being unbreakable!

Bob in Oz
 
Quick...give her 50cc"s of Continental stat!!! If you are out then inject 30cc"s of Perkins...lol
 
If you are going to take out the Crank from the Block, then pull the Sleeves out and fit new gaskets, it will prevent any problems later.
That engine should have rotators on the Valves but they may have worn and they couldn't get replacements. If you want some then try the Triumph Sports Car Forum, they are from the 2 litre engine. John(UK)
 
Still oozing blood this morning, guess thats better than staying under the nail and it wasn't ouch it was whaaa whaaa. No secret just a fe.
 
Bob, you are a pillar of inspiring faith, John, you have a bottomless box of good ideas. Jason, as a doctor or stand up comic...well... just don't quit your day job...
All I got done this evening was remove the timing cover... suspiciously easy. The pulley came off in a second, the cover wasn't much of a fight... and as I looked at the timing chain... it dawned on me, like me and the 23C a couple years ago... someone did a lot of work to this engine, couldn't get it to run, then thru it away?
The only 'broken' thing I found so far, is the distributor shaft- and it is all apart and pretty much inspected for obvious problems.
Seems impossible to break at the plastic rotor key... and the compression is very low.... did they get the timing off? so far off it backfired the shaft notch to pieces??? Nothing else seems broken or worn. And no, I do not intend to remove the crankshaft, that also seems just fine... I don't know what to buy besides gaskets and that shaft, tune up kit etc.... we'll see what next week brings...
 
Tony, looking at the top of that block, the rust etc, I wonder if the head gasket was leaking, which is the cause of the low compression? It certainly looks like the engine has been running so what caused the low compression?
 

When they remove the Timing Chain, often they turn the Engine Gawd knows why, then they are lost. It isn't straight forward getting these engines timed correctly, you can time it after a fashion it needs to be done correctly as you will know.. John(UK)
 
John is correct as usual. The Standard engine has a reversible cam shaft timing gear (for minute timing adjustment) and I found it a real hassle getting the valve timing correct (I don't profess to be anything more than a backyard mechanic), especially as the new after market timing chain was near maximum play and has no chain tensioner, as you can see in this photo:

 
if you have the timing cover off then inspect those lead weights carefully . They wear quite a bit and often stick a little , failure leads to a really nasty mess.
mvphoto7836.jpg

mvphoto7837.jpg
 
Too bloody right Bob! I don't remember if you were around when I did the 23C diesel in '11, but that was a confusing rebuild- with dismal results.I had John on speed dial!
It would be fine in the wop wops, but much too smokey for civilization. I timed it by the -confusing- book, which is like steering a ship?... one gear 90 degrees a starboard, other 0 degrees north, set valves one and two to half speed, steady as she goes, dead ahead aye skipper...holy cow. BUT it was spot on first try. Something else is buggered up. Bill brox sent me a CD on the rebuilding process, arrived after I was done, but I did just what they did. yeah by accident...yeah..
I'd love to have this one figured out and set BEFORE needing to bolt the head on. If I can see the cam lobes? while top dead? that would be like not having a guessing game. My bet the reason it was scraped is the dizzy shaft broke, most likely from backfiring? If so, timing's off? Rather know it is wrong NOW, than take it all apart for naught?
Many years ago, my cousin sheared the entire insides of a Jag V12 from getting the timing off. Bloody poms not hiring a bloody apprentice to punch bloody marks on the bloody gears...I need a 4 X .........
mvphoto7843.jpg
 
Tony

My timing problem came when I replaced both the cam shaft and crank shaft sprockets.

If you haven't replaced the sprockets and the original sprockets are still installed, you should find two punches on the sprockets which when aligned should be the correct valve timing.

Bob in Oz
 
Bob when you wake up yesterday (according to this hemisphere??) check out my new post above. Got any of those TR7 rotors John mentioned ?????
 
Somewhere I have the insides and rotor out of my TEA20 distributor and a second, complete, overhauled spare distributor.

I wouldn't have points and condensers in any of my vehicles, not even in an insane moment.........



Pertronix electronic ignition and HV coil!!! :lol:

TEA20 distributor rotors are available from Sparex S.42374.

Did John say the TR7 rotor will fit the TEA20? The TR7 had the Triumph Dolomite engine which may have been similar to the earlier TR2, TR3 and TR4, which in turn were very similar to the TEA20 engine.

If you are restoring that TEA20, may I suggest a further enhancement?

Chrome gear lever/transmission shifter and chrome throttle lever:





Bling is essential!!! As any teenager knows, chrome bling adds 25 HP to the engine power and a further 20 MPH to the top speed!!

:lol:

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
For some reason I didn't get informed you posted this the 11th.
OK, those chrome do dads, are spiffy, but I am hitting brick walls with certain parts over here. I find the 'valve spring rotors' look just like a pic now I can't find, that someone posted last week. Don't know about stem caps. That dist shaft end is a rather important broken bit- it's all I found wrong with the entire machine! That and gunky valves with too many springs.. someone thought it's an easier fix than taking the head off? Wrong again!
I intend to clean the alloy castings well, even the gearbox and sump, and clear coat them. I like your rubber weather strip on the dash.... I need a dozen of those...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top