TO 35 quitting problem

My TO 35 runs fine for awhile, but then starts to cough and miss and eventually quits. It will restart if it sets awhile. I checked plugs, all look good. It sometimes helped to add more gas. But the problem is getting worse. It seems like it is running out of gas. I did check the gas line from the tank, it supplies plenty of gas. After it has quit once, you can restart it after a few minutes and it will run at low speeds only.

So the problem probably is in the carb. Is there a filter in there that I can clean? It doesn't seem like a clogged jet problem because it only happens after it has run fine and fast for awhile.

Or could it be something else....the coil? This is a hot engine problem, runs ok until it gets hot from a cold start, it will run fine for a half hour or so.

any ideas?

Yes there is a screen filter at the fuel inlet elbow at the carb. They can plug somewhat and do what you describe.

Might try a could of these tricks:

Keep a good spark plug in your pocket, as soon as the tractor stops running, pull one spark plug wire and plug the wire onto your plug,

now with spark plug pliers hold this plug against the motor block and turn over the engine.

Spark: yes or no,

if no then you have an electrical problem. I would change out the coil, that happened to me once, New coil solved the problem.


If you have spark, then you probably have a fuel problem.

When motor dies, before you hook up you spare plug, open the gas cap and listen for a whoosh sound, that would be air rushing into the tank. This can be caused by a stopped up fuel tank vent cap.

Your tank cap must be vented!!!!!

Also you can open the drain under the carb and see if fuel drains out, no fuel then vacuum on tank. You must have free flow of fuel.

This gives you two things to check.

May have to pull fuel cutoff and drain, wash out furl tank, add an metal inline fuel filter.

Also be sure your air filter tower and pan are clean.

So many things can cause this in old tractors.

Let us know what you find, others know so much more than me in troubleshooting problems like this.

It sounds more like a fuel problem, but the best thing is to test, not guess!

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the carb. If you'll locate the plug, and have a wrench ready, run it until the problem occurs. Then quickly pull the plug and see if you get fuel flow. There should be a sustained flow. If the flow slows to a drip, there is a restriction somewhere. The inlet fitting to the carb or the needle/seat could be clogged. Also make sure the fuel line is routed away from the exhaust manifold, could be boiling the gas in the line.

If the fuel system checks out, check out the ignition system. Again, best to catch it in the act, be ready to check for spark when it quits running. Take a look at the points and the distributor in general. Be sure the points are correctly set, the wire from the points to the coil is tight and not shorting to ground, the distributor shaft bushings are not worn, and the advance weights are free. Worn bushings are a common problem, points cannot be set if the bushings are worn. Electronic conversion kits are more forgiving of worn distributor bushings (hint, hint!) It could be the coil, but that's not real common.

sounds like coil i had a Ford that would shut down after warm up 15 min. or so it's nice to have a spare coil around

Quick check>> when it starts to die again, just pull the Choke out a little, if it is a fuel problem it will pick up again But check the fuel flow into Carb by removing drain plug at the bottom and allow fuel to run into a jug for at least 5 mins.a quick check is no use. If it seems to slow down, then maybe you do have a fuel problem, it should have a steady flow There is a filter in the elbow on the end of the fuel line that screws into the Carb. If all is OK when you test that, then suspect Coil or Condenser, cheaper to change Condenser first, these should be changed regularly. If the Points have a spike or a hole in the Contact faces, then change the Condenser as it is on its way out The Coil may get hot, but some do that anyway, if you have a similar coil from another engine you could try that if the problem persists. John(UK)...fergusontractors at hotmail.com