more TEA inards

Tony in Mass.

Well-known Member
I prefer 'guts' over innards. Just enough daylight to get the 'peripherals' and head off. I prefer 'bolt ons' to peripherals too...
Liners look sweet, manifold came off like magic... wee little almost burned up valves! Ooh the sweet little Standard Motors Productions petrol engine... which engine I dunno. How do you identify the...??? millimeters? Got to know this before ordering the kit.
BTW... who is sober enough on new year's eve to work in a cast iron shop?
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You have an 85mm they started at S/N 172501, 12 volt started at 200001. Hurry up only 64 more days till the show starts.
 
What?!?! No fair, the antifreeze in yours looks green! My 35 had a "coffee with cream" look to it. I think now it could be considered shades of green although not as shocking as yours.
 
While you have the head off it might be an idea to pull out the water distribution tube on the manifold side . This brass tube hides a lot of rusty bits and pieces behind it , sometimes blocking water galleries to the last piston . The plate at the rear of the head closes off one end .
 
Tony do not turn that injun over without putting some sort of hold downs to keep the liners in place. These are not fitted in with 'O' rings like a conti......instead they sit on a figure of 8 gasket and if shook it will leak water into the oil or vice versa. A large washer between cylinders and a short bolt should be sufficient or a washer and a piece of tube for a spacer on the original stud........Sam
 
According to the serial number that engine should have exhaust valve rotators as well. Be careful taking them out as they come apart and spill small ball bearings and springs all over the top of the head.(Been there, done that). Even with John(UK) help could not locate new ones and had to reassemble old one.
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What, no injection pump? Where is your sense of adventure? Dang spark plug engine anyway. Now you gotta fool with keeping the carb and distributor working. Oh by the way, I do have an old Sun distributor tester I have used in the past. Easy way to verify correct advance movement when needed. I think it still works.
 
Yeah Tony, Charles was the one who brought up that brass runner on my fe35 which ran hot, had no circulation and dropped oil pressure. Now all is well. Plus your headbolts can all be torqued with same wrench.
 

2 and Charles, yeah I saw that little cover where a freeze plug would be on a Cont. head. I'll check that out!
John Ont and Sam- whoa. thank s for the heads up on those things. I already made too many messes-
Inno. just think, if you were in Quebec it would sound better! 'say grar done café o lay avec sucray y'?
Dieseltech... ya no.... I think I'd rather deal with a dozen sets of points and carbs than suffer with one injection pump... my piggy bank likes that idea too.
Richard.... the ETA of getting done and rolling is 63 days 7 hours and 14 minutes, how long will it take to drive itself there?
 
You must fasten down the sleeves into the Cylinder Block, don't turn the Engine without the Head attached until you do this or the Sleeves could move and damage the gaskets underneath and it will leak water into the Oil Pan. The Sleeves should stand proud of the face of the Block by .004" - .008". or the Head Gasket may leak... JohnUK...fergusontractors at hotmail.com
 
Tony, ain't you ready to trade that tractor for a TO-30 yet?...lol...or swap the bell housing so you can bolt a Continental engine up to it...lol.
 
...or swap the bell housing so you can bolt a Continental engine up to it...lol.

Who would want a Continental when one can have a Standard engine? :lol:

Tony, I think you can only get 85 mm sleeves now which also fit the early 80 mm blocks.

A full engine overhaul kit is around $450 in Australia.

Bob in Oz
 

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