New to me TO-35

FxFerry

Member
Just succumbed in a moment of mental weakness by adopting a 1958 TO-35 with the 23 C diesel. Its' retirement job will be in keeping horse paddocks mowed, I guess this is being put "usefully out to pasture".

As posted 2 days ago, I have tracked the fluid leak, appears to be engine oil, that is in the area of the fuel injection drive pump as being the o-ring for the shaft shown in the pictures that I posted earlier, thankfully with generous member help.

Still believe the "pushing" of oil from the dipstick tube is compression ring blow bye but will take the advice given of pulling the fuel tank, rocker box cover and verifying that crankcase vent line run is clear, and oil returns from top end are also clear.

Will be picking the tractor up after turn of the month, but have a question, The trans/hydraulic fluid was changed very recently, and before any start up was clear and up to full. Hydraulics function very well, good solid movement up and down,no jerkyness, and will hold in the up position until released even with engine off.

Question: after running for about 1/2 hour and exercising all systems and driving around at various speeds and turn radius, again checked the Trans/Hydraulic fluid and found that it had evidence of emulsified water, the fluid had gone from very light tan to milky white.

The boots for both shift and range levers are old but flexible and with no tears, holes or such and fit snugly around their respective bases.

Any other points that water might enter from???

Thoughts and suggestions welcome, and yes as wisely noted by others I have purchased the shop repair manuals, original and IT types, plus the TO-35 Diesel owners manual, for reading before the adopted one arrives.

FX
 
It took me a long time to change the transmission oil in my to35.

I plowed a few garden spots so I had the transmission about as hot as it would ever get in normal service. I opened the drains and let it drain over night. By morning no more oil was running out. I have drained my oil in the last few years and the tractor almost never sets out or gets rained on, so any water in my sump would be condensation.

Then I slowly filled the sump with gl-1 mineral oil 90 weight that I purchased from Napa, they had the oil in 1 and 5 gal containers.

It takes a while to refill the sump as the oil has to drain back into all areas of the transmission differential.

System works good, however in the winter the gl-1 oil is thick and the lift is a little slow. But I am in no hurry so I just wait on it,

Probably would have been better to fill sump with 10w30 oil for winter use. But I had always heard about protecting the yellow metal bearings in the transmission with the gl-1 oil.
 
Long ago, and far away, in the last millennium,I was using a fleet of old Allis Chalmers on the Canadian border.If it was above freezing, the air was humid as the seashore. The engine oils looked like chocolate milkshake every morning, checked the oil again at noon, all normal again. The heat evaporated the water out of the engine in a few hours. An Allis arsend got very hot, hot enough to burn your leg, so that evaporated quickly too. A fergie arsend isn't going heat up enough fast enough to evaporate it all. Best to drain it out, let it separate and pour the good stuff back in. Not everyday or anything, Every few weeks, couple times a year. At least once before the tractor gets put aside for the winter and the water possibly freezes and break something down there. And yeah, buy some camo tarps and keep it covered.
BTW, I now use 15W30 in everything.. large and small... fore and aft...
 
more than likely it was in there all along from years ago. water can enter thru top cover at draft spring boot,also past shift boots and if you have aux hyd's from implements return, but it was probably settled from sitting and was stirred up from running and now looks like regular coffee
 
original owners manual calls for 80 wt mineral oil in cold and 90 wt mineral oil in hotter climate. current spec massey ferguson permatranIII although lighter wt(20) is more than adequate. only factor will be lift pump performance. might not lift as much weight or will drop when engine is shut down quicker than with heavier oil
 

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