Recommended Maintenance while changing Tranny/Hydraulic F...

Joel Simon · May 7, 2014

I have a 1954 TO-30 that I just got running. The
lift arms will not move and the hydraulic fluid
looks like...... a milk shake. I plan on running,
without load to warm the milk shake oil and then
draining it. I will then put in some cheaper oil
with sea foam and run without load again and
drain. I will then put in GL-1 90 mineral gear
oil. The top link spring is loose enough that I
am able to spin it. I was wondering what
maintenance I should perform while the rear end is
empty. I already know of the PTO oil seal. I
will inspect the lift arm control linkage after
opening but that is all I am aware of. I know
that there are o-rings in the hydraulic pump but
with the lift arms not even lifting I don't
suspect that to be the problem. I wish to get
this tractor operational for this summer and plan
on a tear down, repair, and paint job this coming
winter. Any transmission/hydraulic internal
maintenance/repair suggestions would be very much
appreciated.

maxwell99 · May 7, 2014

I have kept the hydraulic/differential oil changed every few years in my old 1957 to-35 so it was not in too bad of shape.

I just get the tractor gear train as hot as I can plowing, that is about the hardest work it ever does. Then drive up to shop and drained out the oil, let it drain overnight. I just add the gl-1 90 weight oil, 8 gals and was good to go. Since the system was working good, I was concerned about adding any special cleaner that might affect the operation.

In winter months the gl-1 oil makes the lift slow, at the next oil change I might go with 10w40 oil, the new oils should protect the yellow metal ok at this point in the old tractors life.

I get my gl-1 oil at Napa.
Since the system has no oil filter the gl-1 oil is designed to let the dirt particles drop out to the bottom of the sump, the newer oils are designed to hold the dirt particles suspended so the oil filter will take them out.

Tom H. · May 7, 2014

First, do you have the pto/hydraulics engaged? If so you may have a control linkage issue if the arms won't move.

As for the oil switch to motor oil and you will not have milky oil any more.

Steve@Advance · May 7, 2014

The milky oil is water contaminated. It definitely needs changing.

But, the milky oil is not stopping the hydraulic lift from working. That needs to be diagnosed first so new oil doesn't have to be drained to get the pump out.

You really need a repair manual before starting this job. It will explain how to diagnose hydraulic problems better than I can here.

Once the diagnosis is made, then the oil drained and top cover can be removed. If the pump needs to come out, and it probably will, then the inside of the case can be accessed and washed out. Water in the transmission is a common problem on these old tractors. It gets in through condensation and around the shifter boots if they are weather cracked or missing.

phil(va) · May 13, 2014

Don't forget, you have a 35, which does take 8 gallons as you said, but he has a 30, which only takes 6 gallons. Don't want to confuse him.

Recommended Maintenance while changing Tranny/Hydraulic F...

Joel Simon

New User

maxwell99

Well-known Member

Tom H.

Member

Steve@Advance

Well-known Member

phil(va)

Well-known Member

Similar threads