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Re: tuning the carburator

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Author  [Modern View]

03-22-2014 18:05:34

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The "idle air" or "idle needle" is the one you are referring to, not the idle screw. The idle screw is on the backside of the carb and adjusts the idle RPM, not the idle air/fuel mixture.
Engine must be completely warmed up to make proper adjustment. Once done, you should be able to quickly open the throttle from idle all the way to full RPM and it should increase in RPM quickly and without any coughing or spluttering. At full RPM you can adjust the high speed needle. Turn clockwise until it is too lean, you will be able to hear RPM drop or it start to sputter, you will also feel the exhaust manifold get very hot beside your hand! Don't keep it lean like that. Back it off from there. If you open it too far (too rich) you will hear the engine suffering and probably see some black exhaust (unburned fuel). Once you have it close, yes, put it under load and see if the governor kicks in and maintains the set RPM. If it coughs or splutters when the governor kicks in, open the high speed needle another 1/4 turn. Repeat until it is smooth under load. You may have to make small adjustments for temperature change. For me, I have to open it 1/4 to a 1/2 turn in the winter. Carb tuning is kind of an art. If you're not sure what you are listening for or looking for, best to ask someone to help you with it that's got some experience with it.
There is some good information over on the FENA website. Not sure if I'm allowed to post a link but Google Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America. Once on their site, click on the "resources" tab on the right.

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