TO35 Governor guts

Inno

Well-known Member
Cue the snow, I took the 35 out of service!!!

Finally got a break which looks like it might work it's way into spring so I figured I was safe to start some work on the tractor. Got a new rad for it about a month or so ago, figured while that was off I might as well get the timing cover off and check out the governor. It, even after adjusting per the instructions I got from John(UK) was completely non responsive. It will also give me an opportunity to replace the front crankshaft seal and rid it of one more annoying leak.
Got it all apart this afternoon which wasn't too bad. The good news is the governor looks to be in great shape. The bad news? Well, thus far, I don't think there is any! Looks as though the bumper spring has just been pushed too close to the front cover and isn't able to do anything, thus the governor does nothing. Gonna go snap a few pics and attach them just to make sure everything is as I think it is. So just going to order seals and gaskets and adjust and put back together.
 
The only thing I'm not 100% sure on, and I think I know the answer to this, is the cup which goes over the balls, it should free spin right? It's deceiving because it is notched on the end that goes toward the engine.

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I don't see anything wrong from the pictures. Not
sure what the notched tab is for, but I think it
does spin, kind'a sort'a, not so important that it
spins, but it must move freely in and out. You
should be able to push it in and see the balls on
the bottom, the ones falling down by gravity, push
up the ramps to the center of the ball cage, then
fall back to the lower edge when released. You can
trial fit the cover back on and feel this same
action by moving the lever back and forth.

I remember something about a drain/vent hole up
inside the cam where the cup stem goes in... But
yours appears to have flats machined on the side
of the stem. Yours may have both. Those are there
to keep oil or air from being trapped and
influencing the governor. Be sure the hole is
clear if it has one.
 
Right, the hole. I remember reading about that somewhere on here. I'll have to check it out before re-assembly.
 
The 1 thing that got my 35 govenor working per J UK instructions was the position of the throttle components under the dash at idle,forgot the wording but I had to adjust the ball joint linkage to get it in the right position.
 
I adjusted as per John's instructions, which was the same procedure as I did on my 202. It worked great on the 202, didn't do a thing for the 35. 99% sure it's the bumper spring tab just needs to be bent back out to it's original position. As it is right now I am able to operate the throttle through it's full range but the governor does nothing at all when put under load.
 
Man don't hurt that tab... but check the other springs -coil ones- too. On the same train of thought as 2 tractors, any hang up on the linkage will 'negate'? the gov, a little or a lot. The best time to check that was before you got it apart this far- pulling and pushing the linkage while it is running will usually spot a hang up- remember the long thread a couple years ago about that hidden spring under the gas tank? The one that's usually missing or just hanging there??
 
I did a LOT of poking, prodding, testing, adjusting and general messing around.........as well as proper adjustment........and it all came down to something UNDER the timing cover. In the reading that I did, it seems that if the bumper spring has been compressed (or bent) too far towards the front of the tractor, the governor has no action at all. And mine, well it didn't. Everything I could check before major surgery was checked and then checked again. The cup does not seem to be binding at all, the lever is not binding. The throttle linkage is all good, replaced all the knuckles, performed the adjustments to perfection............far as I know.

I am planning to be VERY careful with the adjustment of the bumper spring. But I guess, being as how it's not working now, if I break it off, I'm not any worse off.......sort of. If you look at the pics you can see where the governor cup has been rubbing on the timing cover........at least, that's what I think has been happening.
 
I just got done with a 55 to 35 put in 3 different governors with no results didn't work at all. tractor ran great idled great top rps good just no governor. My dad said to switch carb swapped it with a good used one I had dammed if the governor worked it was in the carb all a long go figure
 
I just got done with a 55 to 35 put in 3 different governors with no results didn't work at all. tractor ran great idled great top rps good just no governor. My dad said to switch carb swapped it with a good used one I had dammed if the governor worked it was in the carb all a long go figure
 
Nay bloody worries mate! she'll be right! Take 2 Molson Goldens and call me in the morning. With or without my glasses on, looks normal to me... except ... are you talking about the dull shine where the balls are spinning inboard in the cover? I don't think that is ? unusual? Just don't break the casting bending things around in there.
 
Don't forget that some replacement governors are made to fit both the continental and Perkins gas engines but for the governor to work properly on a continental it has to have a shim installed.
 
(quoted from post at 21:05:18 03/15/14) With or without my glasses on, looks normal to me... except ... are you talking about the dull shine where the balls are spinning inboard in the cover? I don't think that is ? unusual?

Nope, I'm talking about the thin, fairly well defined line in pic 4 around and through the gov. lever.

Does someone have a picture of the timing cover with a "normal" bumper spring? I don't wanna bend things that shouldn't be bent.
 
From the FENA document on adjusting throttle linkage (and I quote) "If no external binding is present and the governor is still in operative at 1000rpm, the difficulty probably results from the governor bumper spring extending too far away from the cover assembly. This can be checked by disconnecting the governor lever spring from the governor lever assembly and pushing the governor lever assembly to the idle position. If while in this position, a spring action is noted, the governor bumper spring extends too far and must be bent inwards towards the cover. This will require removing the front governor cover."

Ok, so I had it backwards........but when it was all put together and I tried this test as stated, I DID observe spring action which is apparently not the way it should be..........I dunno. I'm still trying to get my head around all this.

Edit: I've sent email across the pond to John (UK) in the hope that he can set me straight!
 
Oooooh. the scratch in the aluminum casting? Ooh. I don't remember a shim behind the shell, but I would bet messed up linkages 'not' pushing the paddle would let the shell rattle around and scrap this spot... but then again- I take a lot of shots in the dark... then the spring you want to bend must be very flat- lost its temper? just don't break cover...
 
Yeah, now I'm second guessing everything........I haven't touched anything so far since taking it apart. I'm going to clean it up while I'm waiting for the crankshaft seal and gasket to show up. Hopefully by then I'll be able to find some more information. If there should be a shim in there somewhere, that might explain it too.
I replaced the "knuckles" with ones from McMaster Carr when I was putting it all back together last summer. They changed the geometry of the throttle linkage ever so slightly. I think......I think with all the adjustments I did, that it should have compensated for that. I went through every step, in order, in detail when doing my adjustments. The new parts were very slightly longer than the orig. ones.
 
(quoted from post at 15:20:33 03/16/14) Yeah, now I'm second guessing everything........I haven't touched anything so far since taking it apart. I'm going to clean it up while I'm waiting for the crankshaft seal and gasket to show up. Hopefully by then I'll be able to find some more information. If there should be a shim in there somewhere, that might explain it too.
I replaced the "knuckles" with ones from McMaster Carr when I was putting it all back together last summer. They changed the geometry of the throttle linkage ever so slightly. I think......I think with all the adjustments I did, that it should have compensated for that. I went through every step, in order, in detail when doing my adjustments. The new parts were very slightly longer than the orig. ones.

They talked about the shim and special nut for the governor in issue 63 of Ferguson Furrows

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Thanks for that. So how can I now tell if I have one of the governors I question? I guess I could take it off and see if there is in fact a shim behind there. But that wouldn't tell me if it's an original governor or a replacement.
 

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