all you new guys on here

Tony in Mass.

Well-known Member
Maybe is it because I had the flu so long or just can't keep it to myself anymore, but you people with a tractor you just took home recently or helping someone with an old fergie... hey, reading the manual is the step you take BEFORE you tear into anything. I am not trying to sell YT manuals, but for the 20, 50 even 100 bucks worth of paperbacks, they will save you from ruining 1000 plus worth of machinery. And we can't talk you thru anything without pictures if you are lost from the start. Get the manuals for your tractor, then we here can help clarify the confusing parts.
 
The absolutely best manual I picked up was an original edition parts manual from 5/73. I just opened it and found dates from 9/70 and 7/66.
Then again, this book covers TO TE TEA 20 30 and TO 35.
Found it on flea bay and paid handsomely.

I also have an owners manual and a service manual or two around here also.
 
Tony, very true words. Will be ordering a manual very soon. Which one do you recommend for a TO35. I ask before I try and I will probably be asking lots more. Lots of knowledge in this fine group of people.
 
Tony, could not agree more! :!:

How often do we see posts asking basic, elementary questions, only confirming the person has very few mechanical skills; does not have even a basic non genuine service manual; and has absolutely no idea what they are talking about?

I wonder how many Ferguson tractors that are "[i:c690939586]being torn down to restore[/i:c690939586]" actually get restored or even finished? Very few I guess.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
Tony is back!!!! Welcome back Tony, DOES IT MENTION FLU SHOTS IN ANY OF THE MANUALS YOU READ?
It would be interesting to know if it mentions colour charts in any of these manuals about tractors?????????????
............Sam
 
I know of lots of tractor owners who are not mechanically inclined and I don't think that's a requirement to own and use a tractor for light chores. All a person needs is the ability to learn and ask questions. A manual is a very good idea but some folks don't have a clue where to get one so they search for a forum like this one to ask for help. I always heard there's no such thing as a dumb question. If you don't know, ask ! If you don't ask then you may get hurt or break something. Just my own humble opinion.
 
Toooneee,were you really sick or just playing that way during christmas in order to save up for a new project tractor?Anyway you should be loaded without buying nothing for months now!I don't know who missed you more, us or cl.
 
Why thank you 2, that must be the nicest thing anyone here ever said... to me or anyone!
So 2, how many manuals you got-and where'd ya get em? Tractor supply always has a selection, so does YT here, sometimes one day delivery... I was told by a Canuck... no not Inno... that YT has some manuals that are hard to find else where, don't know what he did about the international shipping deal. When you got what I got, reading and re-reading equipment manuals is one way of keeping out of a straight jacket.... or is it???
 
While certainly I agree with the intend of the post. I would like to add a personal comment. The manuals I[b:554c01e4db] do[/b:554c01e4db] have lack the detail that I'm accustomed to. That is why a person ask a question or for help to begin with. Knowledge is a valuable thing to have, rely on others that have done something in the past to provide some direction. Braking stuff gets expensive in a real hurry.

For instance, (Tony from past posts , I know this subject is near and dear to your heart.) I'm currently working on my TO35 with 23C diesel. Technical explanations and Information in the manuals I have leave a lot to be desired. I love the explanation of how to install the camshaft. If not done correctly you can bend a valve very easily. I have asked, on this forum if anyone knew if there was any information available about what called the cam events. Having that information available and using a dial indicator and a degree wheel you can get the valve timing lined up and correct before you even assemble and install the rocker. I [b:554c01e4db]will[/b:554c01e4db] have that information before I finish assembling the motor.
 
First thing I did when I got my TO 20 home was get on e-bay and found an "original" for $ 30.00 and even tho I've had a lot of engine experience and had it running in no time, I'm glad I had the manual for all the other little things that needed adjusted/repaired etc. When I sold it I let the guy have the manual also. Sure better than getting phone calls on Sunday morn when he can't figure out how something works. There's always more manuals to be bought if need be but he will be a happier customer with the manual.
 
Dr Loch my email should be open. Send me an email with our address and I will send that cd to you. It covers the complete rebuild of the 23c as well as all the other engines in the FE35 series.
 
Ooooooh dr Loch.... I didn't want to be the one to tell you this.. but there are no 'details' when it comes to 23C's. SamN40, John UK and others can best describe how to deal with this engine, but the I&T manual- the one's people love to hate.. was all I had.. and by re-reading it, and later watching a CD kindly sent to me by Bill Brox, I 'think' I got it aligned as close as it will get...
Yeah it seems that you need navigation intruments from the sound of it... 90 degrees a starboard, 3 o'clock level.. belay all valves on #4... steady as she goes... oh man... but the teeth are big enough where you will know if it is right/close with the naked eye...
I wouldn't lose sleep over the camshaft, if the bushings are cooked, boy do you have a machine shop project, if the bushings are good, just with the cam followers in the way without removing the head...wow...
oh btw.... I was told on here that a worn timing chain will make smoke, so like you, I tore the front end off, pulley was easy that time, and after all that... it made more smoke than the old chain... so.... I dunno what to say....
Where are you?
 
Yeah i got about 3 manuals for the 35 and one owners for the 50. Soooo you were sick all christmas and wasn't able to buy anyone presents--- what you gonna buy?
 
(quoted from post at 15:28:34 02/03/14) Dr Loch my email should be open. Send me an email with our address and I will send that cd to you. It covers the complete rebuild of the 23c as well as all the other engines in the FE35 series.

Email not open, PM me.
 
(quoted from post at 15:44:55 02/03/14) Ooooooh dr Loch.... I didn't want to be the one to tell you this.. but there are no 'details' when it comes to 23C's. SamN40, John UK and others can best describe how to deal with this engine, but the I&T manual- the one's people love to hate.. was all I had.. and by re-reading it, and later watching a CD kindly sent to me by Bill Brox, I 'think' I got it aligned as close as it will get...
Yeah it seems that you need navigation intruments from the sound of it... 90 degrees a starboard, 3 o'clock level.. belay all valves on #4... steady as she goes... oh man... but the teeth are big enough where you will know if it is right/close with the naked eye...
I wouldn't lose sleep over the camshaft, if the bushings are cooked, boy do you have a machine shop project, if the bushings are good, just with the cam followers in the way without removing the head...wow...
oh btw.... I was told on here that a worn timing chain will make smoke, so like you, I tore the front end off, pulley was easy that time, and after all that... it made more smoke than the old chain... so.... I dunno what to say....
Where are you?

Tony, I certainly agree with everything you are saying. My tensioner is wore out and I believe the chain is stretched, I will know more about that once I get the new chain and do a comparison. What I was making reference to was the navigation instruments needed to get the cam installed and lined up correctly. I can see the scribe marks the person at the factory made, but, If the chain is stretched that will also throw off the injector timing since it's geared to the camshaft. Where I was going is to put an end to the all the navigation references when trying to install the cam and get it lined up correctly. The methodology that is explained in the manual is... lacking in detail.

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What I've done is put my degree wheel on the crank so I can get the values needed to install the cam without all the navigation. With my old chain I know where the current intake centerline is with relationship to TDC. Don;t know if you can see, but I've removed the rockers so I don't have to worry about a valve contacting the piston while I try a few other things, I love experiments :? The dial indicator in on the end of the pushrod. I'll look at the results with the new chain to see how far they differ. Once thats done I'll spill time the injector pump against the degree wheel just to see where it is, already know where it should be. I'm curious of others things as well with regards to the cam events, not they really make much difference in the whole scheme of things, just curious. What I know now is that the intake centerline is close to that of a gasoline engine. Which is what one might expect. I Will know more once I get the new chain, I really don't want to repeat the steps if I can help it. Comparing the intake centerline with the old chain against that of a new chain properly set will give an idea of how far the injector pump timing would be retarded old versus new.
 
The first thing I do when I buy a machine is order manuals. I have seen many learn the hard way. Example I know of 4 case 148s in 3&400 series that spun #2 bearing while warming up. I got a 310 in 1994 lots of hours on it. Still has good bearings ( time to overhaul) I read in the manual to start at 1/3 throttle and run a bit to get oil up through the pump. I was raised that running a cold engine faster that an idle (if you could keep it running) was taboo. I asked a couple guys with the problem - they never ran it above an idle till it was warm. Interesting. I read it 2 days after getting the old case.

We can never learn too much about a new toy even if we had hundred that are similar to the new guy in the garage.
 
There is nothing like a good manual, and I am glad I have one. I began tearing down my TEA20 without a manual about 5 years ago. Even got a stern talking to by John UK for using a brass drift to remove the sleeves from my engine. I got thrown off track by a family death, and then the birth of one of my own. These days the rear housing of my tractor sits on its wheels under a tarp in the yard, and the rest of her sits in 5 gallon, or 20 liter pails in my shed, with plenty of new parts just waiting on the shelf to be used. I'm really glad my book has lots of exploded diagrams, especially the transmission. I had the transmission parts laid out in order, and someone figured they would do me a favor and put them in a pail out of the way.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:35 03/07/14) I had the transmission parts laid out in order, and someone figured they would do me a favor and put them in a pail out of the way.

Back in the '70's I worked at a Datsun dealership. They sent me to transmission school for a week. The instructor had each of us take a tranny apart that morning, and had us lay out the parts in order on a bench as we worked. After all of the students had finished the teardown we went to lunch. When we came back, each of our projects had been dumped into a rolling cart. "All right gentlemen, now you'll learn how it goes back together!"
I have to admit, I learned more in that manner than I would had I just removed and replaced parts off the bench. Of course when I built them at the dealership I made darned sure that no one messed with the parts on my bench!! :twisted:
BillL
 

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