Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
I see a lot of 6 to 12 volt conversions here, and their associated problems, like burned points, broken starters etc.
I wanted to share something I did several years ago to solve the ever dead battery syndrome associated with the 6 volt generator system.
This was on an old Clark forklift, 6 volt, positive ground, generator...
What I did was remove the generator, installed a Delco (because that's what I had, any brand will work) externally regulated 12 volt alternator, reversed the polarity of the battery cables, making it a negative ground system, and reversed the coil primary wires. Then I ran a wire from the ignition switch, through a 6 volt instrument lamp to the "R" terminal on the back of the alternator. Next, I bought a single contact 12 volt mechanical regulator (fits early 60's-70's Chrysler products), connected it from the ignition switch to the "F" terminal of the alternator.
I removed the cover from the regulator, and removed the spring that closes the contact points. A trip to the hardware store provided a spring with the same length but about 1/2 the strength of the original. (I bought several different springs so I could experiment with them).
I started the engine, and with a digital volt meter adjusted the output to about 8 volts by trying different springs and bending the adjustment tab.
It worked like a champ! Was able to keep everything 6 volt, and with a properly charged 6 volt battery the engine cranked very well without damaging the starter or ring gear.
Just a hint I wanted to pass along...
Merry Christmas everyone!
I wanted to share something I did several years ago to solve the ever dead battery syndrome associated with the 6 volt generator system.
This was on an old Clark forklift, 6 volt, positive ground, generator...
What I did was remove the generator, installed a Delco (because that's what I had, any brand will work) externally regulated 12 volt alternator, reversed the polarity of the battery cables, making it a negative ground system, and reversed the coil primary wires. Then I ran a wire from the ignition switch, through a 6 volt instrument lamp to the "R" terminal on the back of the alternator. Next, I bought a single contact 12 volt mechanical regulator (fits early 60's-70's Chrysler products), connected it from the ignition switch to the "F" terminal of the alternator.
I removed the cover from the regulator, and removed the spring that closes the contact points. A trip to the hardware store provided a spring with the same length but about 1/2 the strength of the original. (I bought several different springs so I could experiment with them).
I started the engine, and with a digital volt meter adjusted the output to about 8 volts by trying different springs and bending the adjustment tab.
It worked like a champ! Was able to keep everything 6 volt, and with a properly charged 6 volt battery the engine cranked very well without damaging the starter or ring gear.
Just a hint I wanted to pass along...
Merry Christmas everyone!