1948jr

Member
after working on a generator and v.r. for 2 or 3 days and doing no good, i am taking them off and sending them 2 china. i am going with a 1 wire alt. and i need a diagram for a to 35 with a neutral switch. thanks
 
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/alternator_conversion/wiring_alternator1.html

I didn't even bother with the old gen. reg. setup on my TO35 being as how a regulator was around $30 and an alternator with built in reg. was $26 from Rockauto! I went with a 3 wire alternator for reasons described in the link above. The 3 wire isn't much harder to wire but will work better. I went with a 55amp so I can add some lights etc. without taxing the charging system too much. I pretty much wired it up as I went. I'm pretty sure somewhere there is a diagram which tells you exactly how to do it for your 35, and if it can't be found I could probably draw one up and post it. My wiring isn't really factory at all but it's correct and works well. You will NOT regret putting an alternator on it.
 
I agree with Inno,

I still have the generator and vr on my 1957, to-35 and most days they work, but they can be a real pain.

I buy the vr from advance auto, us made, but not near as heavy built as the original unit.

as long as they will work, I plan to keep them as I do not want to lose the generator gear driven tachometer drive unit,

but I understand you can buy a low rpm tach that wires up to the distributor and works fine.
 
Does the amp gauge work? I have ran into this before, if the gauge does not work it won"t complete the circuit and charge. Try jumping across the gauge and see if it charges. Do you have it down to bare metal where the regulator attaches? If the regulator isn"t grounded good it will not charge. I understand the frustration when something like that doesn"t work. It can make you want to pull your hair out and it"s usually something simple that is causing it. Where did you get your voltage regulator? I"m asking because some of the ones sold today are solid state internally instead of having points internally and they will not work.
 
What a good write up on why to wire your alternator correctly re sense wire. Most online diagrams I see have the sense wire wrong but it does work for tractors but not as good as it could/should.
 
Yeah, it would work but for the little bit of extra time and minimal cost for another 2 pieces of wire, why not do it right? I know for a lot of folks the problem is that they are afraid of wiring and I can understand that. I have spent some time helping out members of the local early iron car club getting wiring issues straightened out. As for tach, mine never worked anyway so I just added a tiny tach. It was a bit of a pain to get it reading correctly but now that it's all set up it seems to work pretty well. Not factory original but my tractor is for work, not for show. I was trying to find an ign. based tach that would fit in the orig. opening and be waterproof but couldn't come up with anything budget friendly. I'm sure a marine tach would fit the bill. I think the ONLY logical reason to keep a gen./reg. setup is for show tractors as the advantages of an alternator are pretty clear.
 

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