New to me 60 year old T030 need your advice and knowledge

jclark785

New User
I just bought a TO30 over the weekend i thought it was a steal

I paid 1100 dollars talked down from 1350

The rear tires looks new but one is showing rust around the valve stem . should i remove the calcium in the tires . i just plan on using a 7 foot blade for grading a driveway and snow removal when the time comes .

also i am shopping for brush hog i see a cheap 4 ft on craigslist for 350 thats a king kutter . I have small brush lines along the fences i want to take care of and once i get my field whipped in to shape i will prolly just use a finish mower to cut what the horse and future cows wont eat . can i get by with a 4 ft or should i just step up and get a 5-6 foot brush hog ?

it has alternator issue with the fuse holder that is broke and missing on the field lead to the alternator should i install a splash proof fuse holder with a 5, 7.5 or 10 amp fuse ?

also just completed my first 40 dollar oil change on the fergie i used rotella 30w oil and a quart of lucas oil stabilizer . iv used the stabilizer in many applications so i think it should run good but looking at tractor data i see 30w is recommended for 50-120 degrees but do i have to do a seasonal oil change for the winter months when it is woken up to blade off 3-12 inchs off snow ? or can i get by with a good warm up then go play in the snow ? I plan on being a neighbor hood hero doing a few neighbors drives might get a six pack out of the deal or a few bucks for fuel .

oh the and yes the transmission/hydraulic fluid shows a little gummy milk on the dipstick . i think the previous owner never shedded this tractor and rode her hard and kept her wet .

whats a replacement fluid and how would i go about getting the contaminated stuff out (all of it ) .

i think i am on the end of finishing up a bodged up 12 volt conversion ( hence the fuse for the alternator ) i want the tractor lights to work i can get the wiring down with a new switch and rerunning or checking the installed connections or wires but what is a part number for 12v bulbs for the front i can use ?

anybody have a paint code for the original ferg. grey ?

now by a show of hands of the purist how many of you would grab torches and pitch forks if i installed a led work light for the rear ?

is there a way to get the original s starting gear position to work or did that die with 12v conversion ?

i know that's like a dozen broken poor grammar questions but it was i want to hear about if i call family or friends i get different answers and some dont know much about the model specific ones
 
What kind of oil pressure do you have hot? The continental is not noted for good pressure; and
does not need a lot.

I have never seen a fuse on an alternator field lead. Others may have. If you wish to fuse, size to the wire gauge. Fuses protect the wire, not the device.

30wt is not so good for winter, use a multi viscosity oil w/o the snake oil for winter.

Pull the bottom plug and see if you get any water
out? It should separate pretty well on setting.
Do this 2-3x until you get no more water and then
drain warm. Don't forget to drop the arms to purge
the lift cylinder. How are the rear axle seals?

Your "S" switch probably just wore out and was not a function of 12 volt conversion. It would have lasted longer on 12 volts.

I use a walk behind cycle mower for under the fence.
 
If you hook a 4 footer onto your TO 30 your tires will stick out further than the cutter so your cutter can't get close to the fences and you will have a fence row which you don't want.
 
I will try answering a couple of these. You do not NEED to change the oil for winter the most you should have to do is just start tractor then it may take no more than ten (probably 5) minutes of running for the hydraulics to start working when temp is really down. Thinner oil will let you start using it a little bit quicker is about the only thing. If you have chocolate milk in the oil it should be changed out and the inside of the three units all cleaned out . There is a great article in the archives that tells the best way to "clean the hydraulics" it was made by "Jeff Oh". Many if not most have replaced the oil in the hydraulics with the same oil as you should use for the engine 10 W 30 is what many are using. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Paintcolornumbers.02.18.2011.pdf this will give you the paint codes for several different brands. Work light? it is your tractor and those that want to use them will put on what is the easiest for them to work with. The original starting would be a good idea to get that working again. How do you start it now?
 
(quoted from post at 13:07:52 09/21/13) What kind of oil pressure do you have hot? The continental is not noted for good pressure; and
does not need a lot.

15-20 psi cold or hot kinda makes me worried . didnt change with the oil change either but i dont know what the othere owners was using

I have never seen a fuse on an alternator field lead. Others may have. If you wish to fuse, size to the wire gauge. Fuses protect the wire, not the device.

hmmm

30wt is not so good for winter, use a multi viscosity oil w/o the snake oil for winter.

whats snake oil ? miracle additives ?

Pull the bottom plug and see if you get any water
out? It should separate pretty well on setting.
Do this 2-3x until you get no more water and then
drain warm. Don't forget to drop the arms to purge
the lift cylinder. How are the rear axle seals?

hmmm time to get smelly . it smells like old rear end oil from a truck .

Your "S" switch probably just wore out and was not a function of 12 volt conversion. It would have lasted longer on 12 volts.

im just and old sole that likes that the brilliant safety feature i need it i forgot to make sure it was out of gear before pushing the button they rigged up luckily it was cold and didnt fire enough to run me over .

I use a walk behind cycle mower for under the fence.
b:c380c534fb][/b:c380c534fb]
 
sounds like you have a good bit of hours ahead so good luck however I have found this forum has been quite helpful to me. I myself just bought a T030 bout a month or so ago and ended up having to put new rings and complete fluid change which is due to water falling in the gear shift boot. something to check for good performance is the points gap and new spark plug gapped at a min of 30 thousands. the nice thing bout the ferguson tractor is that there is room for tolerance in most every area. it sounds like u may need a new solenoid for ur shifter start.
 
also i am shopping for brush hog i see a cheap 4 ft on craigslist for 350 thats a king kutter . I have small brush lines along the fences i want to take care of and once i get my field whipped in to shape i will prolly just use a finish mower to cut what the horse and future cows wont eat . can i get by with a 4 ft or should i just step up and get a 5-6 foot brush hog ?

A five foot slasher/Brush Hog is idea for a TO30 or TEA20. However you can off set a four foot slasher, left or right, with adjustable sway bars.

oh the and yes the transmission/hydraulic fluid shows a little gummy milk on the dipstick . i think the previous owner never shedded this tractor and rode her hard and kept her wet .

Water in the oil. Gets in around the gear lever and back of the seat. If you get snow in winter, I'd use multigrade 10/20 or 15W30 (or whatever is the US multi grade engine oil equivalent)

You can take the round side cover plates off the transmission and clean out the housing that way. Or you can remove the PTO shaft and drop the oil pump. Both simple tasks but you should have a service manual before you start. I've cleaned out Ferguson back ends in the past with kerosene or diesel.

An old time mechanic friend of mine cleans up transmissions, diffs and even engines by brushing on a mix of one third truck wash detergent or degreaser to two thirds diesel, cleans that off with a pressure washer, air dries with compressed air then sprays on oil. Works for him......

anybody have a paint code for the original ferg. grey ?

You will find all the Ferguson paint details on the [b:4f2cd4fa3d]FENA web site HERE[/b:4f2cd4fa3d].

Nothing wrong with an LED work light. You don't need to be a purist to enjoy your Ferguson tractor! :lol: My TEA20 (in another thread) is very original, except it has chrome gear lever giving an additional 20 MPH, and US Ferguson chrome hood side flashes for that extra bling and s e x appeal!! :lol:

is there a way to get the original s starting gear position to work or did that die with 12v conversion ?

The 12 volt conversion has nothing to do with the gear position starter. It may need a new bell housing switch, it may need the contacts cleaning but my guess it probably only needs adjustment - loosen the four retaining screws and the switch will slide forward or backwards a small amount to adjust the contacts.

[b:4f2cd4fa3d]Beware[/b:4f2cd4fa3d], if you undo and disconnect the switch, make sure you tie a piece of string to the connecting link- don't let it fall down in the bell housing!!

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
Keep the calcium as you need all the weight you can get. If anything remove the tire, check out the tube and repair with a new stem and wash everything down good and paint the inside of the rim but first remove all the rust. then reinstall the cleaned tires with the tubes in perfect shape and you will have no problems with further rust. And for snow plowing the weight alone will not be enough, you need aditional cast weights as well and possible chains. Had a TO-30, NAA Ford and still have a 9N & 2N Ford all with your size tire and tractors simular insize and design. Use to put 300#+ homemade concrete weights on rear wheels as well but since I am my myself now do not get them on as they took 2 people to mount.
 
ok ok ok .

so i need the gl-1 oil from napa 70 bucks there

i am going to replace the shifter booter 10 bucks there

i am looking at these gaskets http://www.ebay.com/itm/111147708746?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

would these be the ones i need to remove the top plates to spray and clean out the trans ?

is it hard to change the pto seal and gasket ?

also do i wanna run around with diesel in the trans or could i get away with sparying it down with it and letting it drain out ?
 
also is there another oil i can use for the trans/hydraulics ?

i dont mind napa i just figured if anybody has used anything else i can somewhere else i can use a coupon
 

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