Ferguson to20 water in coolant

Mopar5191

New User
I recently purchased a ferguson to20, and right after buying it I started to notice the oil was milky. So I parked the tractor for several months and when I got the time to look at it I started by draining the oil and it was filled with coolant. I assumed the head gasket was blown so I removed the head and it looks like the head gasket had been recently replaced. What should i do now.
 
Pull the oil pan and look for coolant dripping from the bottom of the cylinder sleeves. There are orings at the bottom of the sleeves that deteriorate over time.
 
If the block is cracked you could try KN Block Seal. Follow the directions. Also helps to have a non contact temp gun and cardboard in front of the rad to get to operating temp and make sure you stay there without overheating.
 
It looks like there is a crack between all of the sleeves on the top. I"m guessing these should not be there?
 
oh boy sound like u may need a block, as all metal steel when heated it expands, but if ur not looking to put lots of money and time into it just do what u can with the products available to seal the cracks and hope for the best. I wish u the best and if possible take your time and get it super clean before applying any what I call band aids good luck
 
That"s a common problem on continental engines, but that doesn"t mean that"s where it"s leaking from. The head gasket seals to the top of the sleeves and the orings seal the sleeves at the bottom. Only if the cracks go on down the block past where the orings are, is it a serious problem.
 
I once bought a to-20 that had a cracked block (top and bottom). I used bars leak or something like that and it was OK until I put anti freeze in it. the engine oil turned green. I have been very wary of the TO series continentals ever since.
 
I bought a 54 TEA 20 three years ago and discovered the same problen shortly there after. Following the comments that I recieved here, using sealant in the rad, checking for cracks in the block,using cardboard to check the drippings after removing the oil pan to see where the coolant was coming from, lead me to the actual problem which was a botched, quick fix, job on the cylinder sleeves where someone used scilicone as a gasket instead of the original copper. Fortunately there was no damage to the motor that I could find. After replacing the sleeve gaskets,main and rod bearings, front and rear crank seals and all gaskets Fergie is working just fine. Thanks to Easy Tractor, Brantford Ontario. Hope your problem is not too serious.

Don
 
Pictures of block. Notice crack between cylinder and chunk missing at bottom of cylinders.
a129712.jpg

a129713.jpg
 
The chunk that's missing is part of the sleeve not the block. Like I said before, the cracks between the cylinders is common. As long as it isn't split down to the main bearings it will be ok. My TO-20 is split between every cylinder and I put a lot of hours on mine every year doing all the plowing,cultivating, raking hay and I do not have any problems at all with water and oil mixing. Take the rods loose and remove the pistons. Then knock the sleeves out. Clean the block up and see how far the cracks go. If they do not go on down to where the bottom of the sleeve goes in the block and the main bearing area then you are fine. Get new sleeves,orings and pistons and whatever else you may need after checking and put it back together. But somebody saying you need a new block just because it has cracks between the cylinders is not true and most people that know Fergusons with continental engines will tell you that. It was a known problem when the tractors were new. Thats when they devised the tension rod fix.
 
Most of these kind of problem are caused by the nut holding the steering wheel. He forgets to add anti-freeze in cold weather and to keep the Radiator Clean and clear so it can suck cooling air through in summer. Don't blame the Engine. John(UK) [email protected]
 
I'm sure neglect has caused it on many engines, but I also think that due to poorer castings back then also causes the blocks to split. They split where the casting lines are inside and I know from building race engines that casting lines cause stress fractures and tractor engines get stressed way more than a drag race engine.
 
So I need to unbolt the rods from the crank and knock them out the top of cylinders, then I'm assuming the sleeves also knock out the top of block? I will need new sleeves and seals, pistons, and bearings if the block is not cracked all the way down to main bearings?
 
Furnace brazing and line boring by a specialist reconditioner will fix your problem permanently as it fills the cracks and releases all stress in the casting, but I have no idea what it costs in the USA.

That chip out of the liner can't happen naturally. That engine has been abused by an incompetent who was probably also the nut behind the wheel that John referred to.

Bob in Oz
 

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