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My TEA20 always starts on the first engine revolution, due to tuning and electronic ignition. My personal opinion is that money is better spent on Pertronix ignition and coil upgrade, rather than antique and outdated points and condensers. But to each his own.......... :lol:
You don't give enough information to determine cause. Is the problem fuel starvation or electrics fault?
Open the fuel drain on the carby - does the fuel run out in a strong, constant stream, or does it dribble out? Is the tank filter (above the fuel stop cock) clean and free, or causing restriction? Is the carby needle valve sticking by any chance?
Is the distributor shaft or bushes worn giving varying points clearance? Take off the rotor and try wriggling the shaft.
Condensers are a worry at any time? Is yours OK? Is the coil OK; try holding the center coil lead about 1/4" from the block and flick the points - nice, strong, blue spark, or weak orange spark?
If you haven't changed the timing it should be OK but you could check:
Timing marks are on the flywheel and align with a "V" nick in the casing but No 1 cylinder is on top dead centre when you can slide a 1/4 inch rod through the hole below the starter and it aligns with a corresponding hole in the fly wheel (see photo above) and the distributor rotor is on the No 1 position at approximately 10 o'clock.
There could be other problems; battery near it's use by date; battery ground lead still attached to the back of the dash, rather than at the engine; bad or poor ground connection; tired or faulty condenser; even wrong or fouled spark plugs or a myriad of other potential problems.
Need more information!
Bob in Oz
This post was edited by Bob (Aust) at 14:31:24 09/18/13.
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