Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
put points plugs and condenser in 1954 tea-20
12 volt set points to .20 plugs to .25 al425 plugs
hard to start turns over and over but will start
runs fine once you get it started what can I do to get it to start better maybe adjust points or plugs a little? any help thanks
 
check the timming I can not tell what it is to be set at but that may help, also set ur valves if they are to tight it will turn hard. with my tractor after running it for a short while the cam the opens the points wore the block on the points some which made the point not open so maybe check the points again
 
My 35 standard is a booger to start, turns over slow and wants to smoke the cables, it's 12V pos. grd.I cleaned all the paint off the starter to bell housing and behind the solonoid. With a good batt. it now will fire off in about 5 revs.
 
Check the point gap . Points that are gapped to close will cause hard starting .
Gap points . Set the flywheel on the timing mark on the compression stroke ..With the cap off , turn the ignition on . Loosen the dist. , and turn the dist. in the direction that the rotor goes , until the points close . Now , turn the dist. back untill the points just start to open . You will see the spark , and you will hear it . Tighten the dist. at this point . Now your timing is set .
An old V.W. owners manual will explain this procedure for static timing a engine with a points type ignition system . Works great . No special tool required .
 
Might be battery cables are to small are they the originals on there like 2 tractor said clean starter were it bolts up must have good ground to bell housing starter will turn slow.You need it to turn fast to build up the compression if the motor is getting tired.
 
My TEA20 always starts on the first engine revolution, due to tuning and electronic ignition. My personal opinion is that money is better spent on Pertronix ignition and coil upgrade, rather than antique and outdated points and condensers. But to each his own.......... :lol:

You don't give enough information to determine cause. Is the problem fuel starvation or electrics fault?

Open the fuel drain on the carby - does the fuel run out in a strong, constant stream, or does it dribble out? Is the tank filter (above the fuel stop cock) clean and free, or causing restriction? Is the carby needle valve sticking by any chance?

Is the distributor shaft or bushes worn giving varying points clearance? Take off the rotor and try wriggling the shaft.

Condensers are a worry at any time? Is yours OK? Is the coil OK; try holding the center coil lead about 1/4" from the block and flick the points - nice, strong, blue spark, or weak orange spark?

If you haven't changed the timing it should be OK but you could check:



Timing marks are on the flywheel and align with a "V" nick in the casing but No 1 cylinder is on top dead centre when you can slide a 1/4 inch rod through the hole below the starter and it aligns with a corresponding hole in the fly wheel (see photo above) and the distributor rotor is on the No 1 position at approximately 10 o'clock.

There could be other problems; battery near it's use by date; battery ground lead still attached to the back of the dash, rather than at the engine; bad or poor ground connection; tired or faulty condenser; even wrong or fouled spark plugs or a myriad of other potential problems.

Need more information!

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
hmmm,not as hard as now,leave the timing alone.go back over what u did-u've changed something durin the tune up.it happens.psst-ask tony!
 
If all he did was.........

put points plugs and condenser in 1954 tea-20

I'd be suspicious of:

[list:e9168efb45]A bad condenser from new;
Points coated with shellac, need cleaning before use;
Varying points gap due to distributor wear.[/list:u:e9168efb45]

But there could be a myriad of other contributory causes.
 
Only a thought, but is your starter in good shape? If the brushes are oxidized, or are wearing poorly your starter may not be turning quick enough for a good start.
I have a '51 TEA 20 with points and condenser and it fires right up, first turn, no issues. I am a firm believer in electronic ignition however I doubt this is your issue.
you might try opening your spark gap a little?
 

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