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Manifold and Cylinder Head Nuts...

T

Tom Bowman

Member
I'm planning to use new nuts when I reinstall the cylinder head and manifold on the TO-20. (I did [i:5e6433a99a][b:5e6433a99a]not[/b:5e6433a99a][/i:5e6433a99a] replace the studs on either one: they didn't come out with the nuts, and they looked good, so I just cleaned up the threads.)

The manifold nuts are shown in the Parts Book as "3/8 NC Hex [i:5e6433a99a][b:5e6433a99a]Special[/b:5e6433a99a][/i:5e6433a99a]" - what's "Special" about them?

I was just going to get Grade 8 nuts at my local hardware or auto parts store, or order them from McMaster Carr when I order some other bolts, etc.

I've checked the archives, so I know opinions vary on using brass manifold nuts. (The ones I removed aren't brass.)

Same question on the cylinder head nuts: anything "special" there?
 
Tom When you say manifold I think "exhaust" Personally I don't like brass - it seems to gall and when it does heat doesn't seem to help. I like stainless steel on exhaust but it is important to remember don't use stainless bolts or studs when using stainless nuts or visa versa. Stainless against stainless with heat will gall - it might as well be called welded. Stainless with steel is wonderful. My 2 bits.
 
Thanks, 2 - Grade 8 it is.

And Bill, I may use stainless on the manifold. I'm certain the studs aren't stainless.
 
my recollection is the brass nut on the manifold thing was for Ford flathead engines on the 9N/8N. One or more of the studs threaded into the jacket of the engine on those engines. Steel nuts on the Ferguson. Stainless nuts are probably fine. Some of the nuts are difficult to get a socket/wrench on them due to the casting of the manifold. The "special" might be related to the shape,height of the nuts because of that clearance problem I mentioned.
 
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