Ideas?

I have always had my bush hog behind my Case 300. Now its going behind my TO-30 I have some ideas on how to prevent sway -maintain cutting height , etc. BUT! I never really have seen either a Ford or Ferguson hooked to any thing but a plow ot counter weight, and that was 50 years ago. I would welcome pictures and ideas (homemade or factory) preferably pictures. I have some pieces that look like they were used in 3pt setups.
I can do it my way -but is my way the best? I am not sure,so I welcome feedback.


By the way I found a generator with the tach drive (no warranty) $125.00. Guess I better get it so I can get rid of the alternator. The good is they start so easy the generator woill keep up easily. Does anybody know what the 12 volt amperage was?
Thanks Mr Bill

Surely you only need two sway bars to mount the brush hog on a Ferguson 3PL?

I don't know about the TO30 generator but a Lucas generator on a TEA20 has an output of 11 amps only.

The delco generator should put out around 20 amps. All you should need for bush hogging is a sway bar. Look up marlowes method on here for how to hook up your bush hog, although I don't do it myself. I just set my lift in the neutral position and move the quadrant stop up against the control lever. Everyonce in a while I'll have to move the control lever to correct the lift but not that often. Doing it that way also depends on how good of shape your lift is in and if it has been adjusted properly. That's also how I move round bales of hay with my TO-20 but Marlowes method may work better for you.

Yeah, 4 lengths of lower links, all the tire sizes and positions 'can' complicate things. I learned to like the idea of a chain for a top link, or behind it to the back of the mower. That really helps on rough terrain. And with a 30... an over running clutch is a good idea...
Instead of us just guessing here, you should take pictures of what you have to deal with, then we can help you spend lots of money! Go get your camera Mr Bill!!!!

Mr Bill:

You want pictures? I've got pictures. Is my way best? Probably not. But it does work well. I've tried probably dozens of ways until I found this that quite satisfies me now.

The first two shows what I use to prevent the mower from swaying. Having one adjustable sway bar (such as mine on the left) is essential for me to eliminate all sway. I hook it all up and then turn it until everything is pulled tight. The mower will lift and lower perfectly, but it doesn't move at all side to side.

The next two pictures show the method I have chosen to maintain mower height. I got the instructions somewhere online. They originated from the FENA newsletter. Marlow's method (described in the archives) as Jason mentioned also works for a mower if one has a solid top link.

I have chosen a slightly loose top-link as pictured because it allows the mower to flex up and down if the ground is not level. I find this better than a chain as it limits the mower's movement beyond a certain point. This seems safer in the event of hitting something that might cause the back of the mower to rotate upward.

An over running clutch is essential for safety and also practicality. Mine broke once and demonstrated to me just how important they are.

Your right I never mow with out an over running clutch - and because I did a lot of land clearing in MA. I always use a slip clutch (even on my rototiller & finish mowers. My case had an Eagle hitch (the width was non adjustable which made it hard to use implements of different with pins on the lower arms) The pic is of my home made arms,been using them for 20 some odd years now. No left - right sway problems. My lift never moves when I raise it so the height never changes (it sat once when I was moving for 3months with my 1500 lb. counter weight up and never moved).

I posted this in 2 posts because I didn't want to confuse the Case with the Ferguson. Remember I have never used the Ferguson yet - this will be my first time. I always use a chain somewhere so the mower can ride between the lower arms and the tail wheel, yet raise it to clear an object.

(Side note Just looked out my window 6 deer eating a late breakfast love them.)

Correct me when I am wrong - I am under the understanding that the lift arms on the Fergy will tend to drop after I raise them? if so then I would like to suspend them from up near the top link some where. The little chains beside the PTO don't look like they are must for controlling the sway of the lower arms. I have a pin on the left axle that would do fine for a sway stop (wish I had one on both sides then 2 chains would be great. Maybe another project.

Tony what I have for extras are (see picture) #1&2 I think there were to hold the draw bar stationary? #3 may be a sway link for the left lower link ? other wise on the tractor I have just a top link and 2 lower bars & the little chains that hook between the lower link and the lower bars. Like I said B4 I wish there was a pin on the right axle -then I couls use 2 stay chains.

Yess Jeremy -I like how your lower links are done. Did you make the pin for the lower right sway bar? As I said I only have 1 on mine -left side. I need a right (may have to fabricate one),but would prefer not to at this time. I use 2 sway chains on my Kubota w/turn buckles ,awkard to adjust when my finish mower is on due to the fat turf tires. But when adjusted they work great.
Now with the kit on your draft control is it accurate as to how much it will drift? I kind lean towards supporting the lower arms with adjustable chains to prevent height changes. ????

Sorry here are the arms I made for my case -the picture didn't load with the post.

I bought the brackets and the pins for the sway bars at TSC, although I"ve seen what look identical elsewhere. There are several holes in it for the pin. One of them lined up perfectly on my TO30.

The position control kit is very good as long as the various pieces fit without too much slop. So long as the pump is running it will hold the lift arms at any height in their range. No drift at all.

If I hit the clutch for a while and stop the hydraulic pump the mower will begin to drift downward. Chains would prevent this.

I used chains before and switched to this for three reasons. 1) With chains I could only adjust one link at a time. A turnbuckle would have helped here to give infinite adjustment. 2) If I was mowing one area at 3.5" and then moved to an area I"d rather at 5" it was a pain to switch. Now I just raise the lift arms a bit and roll on. 3)I also sometimes use the 3 point with a carry-all to move stuff around on pallets. This is much easier with more adjustment in height on the fly than the chains gave me.

But, like I said, the weakness is that if I hit the clutch for an extended period the mower starts creeping down. When I release the clutch is starts too low, although it returns to the set height almost immediately. It just might scalp a point briefly.

Note the little adjustable "catch". This is great as it allows me to set a down position. It"s possible to raise the mower for a time, then drop the mower to exactly the same height as before.
I take no credit for the position control setup other than that I managed to follow the directions and adapt slightly to the scraps I had laying around my shop.

We'll let other guys look at this cool pile of stuff and chime in... but yeah, looks like #1&2 you don't want on a bushog. #3 on either side it fits is all you need. One should be fine. If the over run fits the 30's smaller pto shaft... just try it out. If you bind up on anthills and high spots, dips and gullies- you'll have to losen or play with the top link, I don't ? suspend? my hogs, I let them skate the ground...as I think they were designed to do, not a nice lawn you don't want scarred, but out in the rough. I'd say you are fixed enough to start putting it all together... just don't go 4 wheelin' with it just yet!

On my TO-35 I use a couple sway bars to handle side-to-side, and then i run a chain from one side of the 3pt frame on the hog, up through a clevis on the broken pin, and back to the other side of the frame. Lets me lower the hog down onto the chains, and take all the load off the hydraulics. Lets more power go to the PTO instead of working to hold the hog in the air. Works great, as now when I get into thick stuff that bogs the tractor down, I don't have the lift dropping the hog down even more making the problem worse.

(quoted from post at 10:32:04 09/03/13) We'll let other guys look at this cool pile of stuff and chime in... but yeah, looks like #1&2 you don't want on a bushog. #3 on either side it fits is all you need. One should be fine. If the over run fits the 30's smaller pto shaft... just try it out. If you bind up on anthills and high spots, dips and gullies- you'll have to losen or play with the top link, I don't ? suspend? my hogs, I let them skate the ground...as I think they were designed to do, not a nice lawn you don't want scarred, but out in the rough. I'd say you are fixed enough to start putting it all together... just don't go 4 wheelin' with it just yet!

Click to expand...

Tony I agree on the "skating" except my back field is like Alcatraz -a rock pile. I always mowed close for my customers unless there was stumps or rock. But here I have already broke a blade so I mow higher than I would like to in some areas. As far as a single sway bar - I would prefer 2 as it is easy to put a lot of pressure on the hog in a turn when in a rocky area. However I will probably try it for at least one mowing.
I may have a left bracket (used) on order to be shipped tomorrow. And thanks to Tom Bowman I have the larger shaft (darn and I just put seals in my older small shaft) Also I found in a box left with the tractor an adaptor for putting the large ORC on the smaller shaft. My old faithful Ford 909 budh hog had a slip clutch. I have 3 bush hogs now an d today when I went up to get the arms from the pile of gray matter I got on top of the bushog out there to see id the gear box was splined or round. Surprise !! I noticed a tag on the bush hog "Ferguson" Boy what a heavy killer it is. Later this summer I gotta bring it down and check it out -may be fun to fix up to go with my Fergy when we go out huuntin WEMEN "CUMON Jake lets go"
Mr Bill

I just thought of something else... a big screen in back of the seat... if you run over a rattlesnake.. and the head happens to fly forward... teeth first... hey, just thinking out of the box here for safety.. or were they copperheads?
Let us know when you try it out, you'll be fine with what you got...

Yup Tony a copperhead resistant screen! Sound important? I won't be using it soon got to finish a job on our Buick. I can only do a couple Hrs a day in low speed. LOL. Just to let you know I am very fussy about how I do my projects. If its not "my best" then why waste my time? My best may not be as good as someone elses "best" but its still my best. I have had people get frustrated because I absolutely hate to do it twice. So bear with my pickiness. Please!

I'm having fun so far with my Fergy - not what I am used to but I like old and unique, Lookin forward to playing "farmer" with it. Oh and takin grandkids to shows etc.
Mr Bill