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10W30 vs. GL1 Debate

I

Inno

Well-known Member
I had said in a previous post about this subject that I plan to put 10W30 in my TO35 and see how it works compared to GL1 which I have in my 202.
I found this locally and it's the best price I've seen. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...ional-sae-10w-30-sn-gf-5/p-2020090-c-9112.htmI don't know if it's a detergent or non detergent but for the price I could see me changing it a bit more freqently.
Can anyone see any reason why I wouldn't want to use this oil for my trans/hyd/rear end in my TO35? Aside from the GL1 vs. 10W30 debate.
They also have Rotella T for 12.97 a gal.......oh and the National brand oil is 1.25gal for 12.19.
 
That isn"t a non detergent oil. It really isn"t a good price for the debate considering that GL1 at TSC is $18.99 for two gallons.
 
I agree on both counts however........I don't have a TSC close by and it is the best price I could find locally. Also, finding something non detergent in a multi grade oil is not as easy as it might seem. I could order some SAE30 from NAPA or O'Reilley but that isn't the same as 10W30 and I believe would defeat the purpose of using engine oil as opposed to GL1.
 
I never could find a non detergent 10w30 either. That's why I went back with GL1 in mine. If you have a NAPA they can get the GL1 in five gallons for around $45.00. I would try the 10w30 myself if I could find it and it was priced with the GL1.
 
That's what I did for the 202, went to NAPA and orderd GL1. I want to try the 10W30 just to see how well it works throughout the winter. It would be great to find some non-detergent 10W30 at a reasonable price but I can't even seem to find it at any price. Well that's not entirely true, Home Depot has some Powermate 4Cycle non-deterg. 10W30 but they only have it in quarts for $4.50 each.
 
This is an old debate. GL1 is fine when you can find it, it was the
recommended oil back in the 50's. Oil technology has improved
a lot since the 50's. There is nothing wrong with using 10W30 as
GL-1 is basically 30 weight gear oil. Take a look at the water-
thin general purpose hydraulic oil that Ford/New Holland
recommends for the 8N/9N (same hydraulics as the TO's) and
you won't think 10W30 is too thin. If you clean the inside of
your hydraulic housing/transmission first there is no reason to
not use detergent oil. There are prev posts on how to clean the
inside of the housing using kerosene and a garden sprayer that
were well written. I switched to 20W50 commercial grade (diesel
oil) in my hydraulic/tranny housing years ago after reading thru
all the pros and cons on this site and have NEVER regretted it.
The multi-grade oil does improve your hydraulic lift operation in
Winter months and holds up as well or better than GL-1 when
working it hard, like hot Summer brush hogging, etc.
multiweight oil is available everywhere and cheaper than GL-1 in most cases.


George
 
why I still use GL-1 oil in my old 1957 TO-35 Ferguson tractor. The transmission/hyd system has yellow metal in the transmission.

__________________________________________
the 10w30 type oils:
have EP additives which contain phosphorous/sulfurous compounds are corrosive to yellow metals such as the copper and/or brass used in bushings and synchronizers; the GL1 class of gear oils does not contain any EP additives and thus finds use in applications which contain parts made of yellow metals.

use 10w30 oil if you want, I guess at this stage of the game, in the life of the tractor, as long as the old tractor runs and works properly, it really will not matter. But, as long as I can get the GL-1 oil, I will continue to use it.

was using the old tractor hard yesterday cutting weed/grass and small bushes higher than the tractor and it ran fine, pulled good and the lift will still pull the front wheels of the tractor off the ground.

good enough for me.
 
motor oil does not have sulphur based EP (extreme pressure) additives. GL3,GL4, GL5 gear oils do have sulphur based EP additives and should not be used in GL-1 trannys. Modern motor oil standards actually minimize sulphur because the combustion products are considered pollutants and also hard on catalytic converters. Motor oils are not hard on copper based metals. But don't take my word for it, do your homework and make your own conclusions.
 
It was my understanding that motor oils were considered yellow metal safe unlike some (most) of the modern gear oils which is another reason why it is a good, safe alternative to GL1 especially in cold climates.
I agree about doing research but on many topics there is a lot of conflicting information.
 
Inno,

funny, we are not the only one's having a healthy debate on GL-1 oil

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?47921-GL-1-Gear-Oil-Alternative

hope you can open this site:

it's a site for guys that own and drive old military vehicles. Interesting, they were having the same issues.
some wanted GL-1 in the heavy truck transmissions, others no.

end result as others have said, put whatever you want to in your truck/tractor.

key I think is to change the oil every 5+ years or so and be sure to keep moisture out, by keeping the rubber transmission boots in good repair.
 
Oh I'm sure there is plenty of old equipment being restored and used today which uses fluids no linger available or where there may be a better modern fluid. I came across an old email from John(UK) last night which included a sheet on the subject. What I got from it was that as long as you keep the water out and change it regularly the 10W30 is better than the GL1 in many ways. It went on to say that low detergent is recommended and by that he means regular automotive oil, not heavy truck or diesel oil because it contains more detergent.
I filled it yesterday with 10W30 and so far so good. It was around 80 yesterday and it lifted very quickly even without being warmed up, which was to be expected. Today it's more like 55 and it performs the same. Ok, so not a huge temp. range but it is a start. Once winter comes I can keep everyone posted as to how it works.
 
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