I posted about getting my (new to me) to20 home finally. well i done the tuneup on it today and got it running good, set carb, put new exhaust on it and even drove it around a little. everything went good until clutch popped and pedal went down. now no clutch. pedal will still depress and return while it is running, but when you turn motor off, it stays down. with it running, it still has enough clutch to kick pto in without grinding, but not enough to put in gear. While test driving, and driving it around yard, it seemed to have good clutch. any ideas? also it is converted to 12 volt with alternator and 12 volt coil, but the coil is stamped use with external resistor. do i still need this to keep from burning points even tho it is all 12 volt? any help is appreciated.
- Thread starter bdunegan
- Start date
But if the clutch disc was sticking to the pressure plate he would still have a pedal. If the pedal falls then it sounds to me like the throw out bearing is gone or the fingers on the pressure plate are gone or the fork is broken. If it popped and then no more noise it sounds more like the fork.
The springs on the pressure plate provide the pressure that pushes your clutch pedal back. I would say a split is in your future. It is pretty straight forward. Just make sure that when you take the radius arms loose that you put a wooden wedge on each side of the axle so the engine can't pivot and fall over.
Bob (Aust)
Well-known Member
I know it is not by the book, but I put an engine stand under the engine, chock the front wheels and put a trolley jack under the transmission, then wheel the back half backwards, rather than trying to move the front half forwards.
Much easier, no risk of "losing" the front end and a one man job.
Complete clutch kits are cheap enough and it only takes a couple of hours.
Much easier, no risk of "losing" the front end and a one man job.
Complete clutch kits are cheap enough and it only takes a couple of hours.
Charles in Aus.
Well-known Member
A simple thing , you might want to check and see if the clutch pedal is rotating on the shaft a little . If it is then it is fixed by simply tightening the nut .
"....pedal will still depress and return while it is running,...."
That"s what I thought at first but the above statement made me think otherwise.
I flunked Mind Reading 101 and some people have difficulty describing what the real situation is, so some guess work is usually involved. I agree with you that it could also be a broken clutch fork.
That"s what I thought at first but the above statement made me think otherwise.
I flunked Mind Reading 101 and some people have difficulty describing what the real situation is, so some guess work is usually involved. I agree with you that it could also be a broken clutch fork.
miner09
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pattonville Texas
You need to add a resistor or get a coil with internal resistor. Clutch may be throw out fork, pressure plate ,or spring broke. You should be able to see with inspection plate off. You may have to split tractor.
Looks like i am gonna attempt a split. dont have concrete floor so looks like outside in yard. I checked parts on this site and they show two clutch kits for to20, one with 1 1/8 shaft and one with 1 3/8 shaft. guess i have to split first to see what i have. my sn# is 28804 if someone could tell me which one mine has. would like to order and get parts so it could be an out and back in job. also assuming fork is broke, i cant find one listed in parts. is this something hard to find and anyone know where i can get one if needed. thanks for all the advice from everyone, and sorry if my explanations of symptoms sounds far off. this is first time attempting something like this, but i am ready!
Bob (Aust)
Well-known Member
Mid 1950 model. I didn't realise there were two different clutch kits or sizes....?
[i:6b454437b4]"...one with 1 1/8 shaft and one with 1 3/8 shaft."[/i:6b454437b4] Is that a reference to the PTO shaft diameter? If so, they were produced with a 1 1/8" diameter spline shaft, many owners (including me) have replaced the PTO shaft with a 1 3/8" diameter spline shaft, but that does not affect the clutch. :?
Sparex only lists one clutch for the TO20 (and TE20, TEA20, TO30) including Part No S.60693 (clutch plate), 9" ten spline, which replaces:
Ferguson: 180241M91, 181114M91
Ford: 91A7550
Massey Ferguson 180241V91, 181114V91, 181141M91
I'm sure someone here will know far better than me!
[i:6b454437b4]"...one with 1 1/8 shaft and one with 1 3/8 shaft."[/i:6b454437b4] Is that a reference to the PTO shaft diameter? If so, they were produced with a 1 1/8" diameter spline shaft, many owners (including me) have replaced the PTO shaft with a 1 3/8" diameter spline shaft, but that does not affect the clutch. :?
Sparex only lists one clutch for the TO20 (and TE20, TEA20, TO30) including Part No S.60693 (clutch plate), 9" ten spline, which replaces:
Ferguson: 180241M91, 181114M91
Ford: 91A7550
Massey Ferguson 180241V91, 181114V91, 181141M91
I'm sure someone here will know far better than me!
According to Agcopartsbook the 180241M91 clutch disc is for the TO-20 and TO-30 with the Rockford clutch and it has the 1 3/8" hub according to this site. According to the Ferguson manual by your serial number it should have the Rockford clutch in it. Of course if the clutch has ever been changed during its life you never know what you may find in there. I"ll have to look tomorrow but I think I have a fork laying around.
got tractor split( fairly easy) and found that release bearing came apart, part of it is stuck in fingers of pressure plate and other part with ears for the springs was still on fork but wedged off. one spring was broke and one ear of fork is broke. definately need a fork if someone has one and springs. while it is apart, i am going to do whole clutch job. DEFINATELY needing a fork and will get the springs when i order clutch kit.
just a question. parts manual shows the part 58 release bearing and part 58 release bearing sleeve. the sleeve is the part that is wedged to the fork with one spring broke. the clutch kit does not list the release bearing sleeve included. is it included in the kit or do i need to find it extra. if so, then i need one of these also along with the fork.
Well from what I have looked up, neither the springs or the hub are available from Agco. I did look a few minutes ago and there is someone on eBay that has a hub listed for $50.00 or best offer and free shipping. Vermont Dave frequents these boards quite a bit and he parts out a lot of Fergusons. He probably has a set of springs. He is also on eBay. I know I have a fork,and a pressure plate but I don't think I have any of the other pieces you need but I'll look some more.
The Ferguson manual doesn"t tell what the difference is, it just says that the release bearing hubs are interchangeable between the TE-20 and the TO-20 tractors so there is a difference. Agco says the one hub fits them all part number 825987M1. Check with this place it says they have it.
http://www.mainetractors.com/ferguson_to-30/ferguson_to-30.html
http://www.mainetractors.com/ferguson_to-30/ferguson_to-30.html
I think i can dress my hub up a little and use it if it will fit the release bearing ok. it is a little rough from the bearing turning sideways on the pressure plate. will find out when clutch kit comes in, but i do still need the fork. i thought i could just turn mine around and use it but the release arms are rounded a little on the using side but are flat on the other side. this may cause a sticking on the square edges when it pushes into the release bearing.
oldmisterbill
Member
I have found 2 ways to unstick a clutch that stuck while setting. Usually its moisture and rust or whatever forms a bond between the plate and flywheel or disk. I think I read that is what is happening. Blocking the padal down just enough to prevent engagement when it is going to sit is the best way.
Ok way #1 warm up the engine real well-start engine in the highest gear you can get it moving in.I go to a hill shut down and start over in high.go as long as you can holding the pedal down and jerking it with the throttle.the heavier it weighs the better.
#2 if you have a inspection cover that will allow you to get to the point where you can see the clutch ,flywheel & pressure plate where they touch each other. Have someone hold the pedal down (engine off) and with a small air chisel that vibrates more than it whacks. Place a brass drift against the solid part of the pressure plate and with the air chisel against the brass vibrate the driving disk of the pressure plate. Usually this will do the job.
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